The topic is oil

iron_786 · February 1, 2004

i have read the owners manual on what it says about 5 30 and 10 30 oil basicly it says 530 in the real cold winter weather and 1030 all other times (even thought the crank case cap says 530) i usually do this in my vehicles anyhow, but now im curious as to whether sythetic is worth the xtra coins,,,its 2.5 to 3 times the price of conventional oil which i have always used in my vehicles and got good results is it worth the extra $$$????? and what about semi syn its a wee bit cheaper. what brand oil and filter are u people using in your rigs? oh by the way im talking about a 2002 silv 4.8

m2628jp · February 1, 2004

I am using 5W30 Amsoil along with the Amsoil filter. Only 75,000 miles, but so far I am happy.

SilveradoWV · February 1, 2004

I personally use non-synthetic in my truck and change it and the AC Delco filter every 3000 miles. Synthetic is not worth the money at all IMO if you change it every 3000 miles (unless its like -20 degrees). I feel like up to probably about 4000-4500 miles there is no benefit to synthetic (unless the temp requirement above). BUT although I dont use synthetic I am not one of those synthetic bashers who are totally against synthetic. I belive synthetic is well worth the money if you are going to do the extended drain deal which I think a few people do on here, and they can give you more information about what filters they use that last a large amount of miles, I am pretty sure Amsoil makes one because if you are using syn, the regular filter will need changed way before the syn oil.

ness5575 · February 1, 2004

there has been much debate about this on the board before. do a search and you will be able to spend hours reading about dino vs synthetic.

personally i use mobil 1 and an ac filter when the oil change message comes up on the dash. usually between 4500-5500 miles. It costs a little more, but i dont have to change it as often and from what i have read here and in other places it does the engine better.

atomoverride · February 1, 2004

I use whatever they give me @ the dealership when I pay them to change it. And I add that KREX stuff cause it gives me roadside assistance...

JayMan · February 1, 2004

Well, since the topic is oil, I've had over 22 years with finding the proper oil for my commercial trucks and my personal equipment.

First of all, you have to understand that the North American oil grading system is a complete joke. The API/SAE testing and "certification" is nonsense and is nothing more than "lowest common denominator."

Now before you become enraged, let's examine how oils are tested under the SAE J300 protocol:

Currently, the test is run for about 60 hours. The oil is allowed to thicken 275%, and 25% of the oil is allowed to boil off. You're allowed sludge deposits. The rings can stick but they can't break. The test engineer can add 6.5 liters of oil during the test to still earn a "passing grade."

Just based on the oil addition allowed, a car would leave a heavy blue cloud behind. An oil allowed to thicken 275% probably won't flow out when you remove the drain plug.

The scary thing is, the "new" J300 test is WAY better than the older J300 tests: oil was allowed to thicken 400%, almost 40% could boil off, etc.

The sad thing, several generations of drivers have been "educated" to believe that ALL oils are exactly the same. Why pay $4 a quart when a 69 cent a quart has the same exact "Starburst" certification?? We've also been led to believe that one viscosity grade is best for all seasons and all uses. Nonsense.

Oh, the test motors? A Buick 3.8 V6 and a special one cylinder engine, sort of like a Lawnboy motor.

In Europe, the ACEA has far stricter standards: oil is tested 200 hours, oil can only thicken 50%, only 15% can boil off, sludge of 7/10 max on "accelerated" aging, and the test engineer may NOT add make-up oil during the test.

Individual car makers have heavy input into these tests, and these same car makers are free to set their own standards as well. For example: Mercedes Benz 229.3, BMW Long Life 01, VW 506.01, etc.

In winter, due to my extreme cold temps, I run Mobil 1 0W-30. In summer I run Mobil 1 10W-30, but this summer I'm going to switch to the new Mobil 1 "SUV and Truck" 5W-40.

Based on my previous experience with my 1984 Ford and 1990 Toyota 4Runner, I did NOT lose MPG running a heavier oil (Delvac 1). Indeed, while living in Utah, I ran Mobil 1 15W-50 in my 4Runner with excellent results. Very quiet motor and no deposits even after +120,000 miles.

Since I like to keep my equipment forever, or at least past 150,000 miles, I don't think the extra "cost" of synthetics is a factor. However, my extreme cold climate in winter is a factor, so it's a "no choice" if you want long life. Perhaps in a mild climate you'd do well with a regular oil.

I don't follow the regular Qwikie Lube oil change of every 2,000 - 3,000 miles. I might change the filter every 3,000, but the oil stays in at least 10,000. No problems with Delvac 1 or with Mobil 1.

With my truck, I average about 1 quart every 4,200 miles running Mobil 1 0W-30, 1 quart every 6,800 miles running Mobil 1 10W-30. I'm looking forward to my Mobil 1 "Truck and SUV" 5W-40 experiment this summer, as "Truck and SUV" is basically a rebadged Delvac 1 commercial product.

In the end, if you feel it costs too much to run a good quality oil, feel free to use whatever makes you happy. In the end, you paid for the truck, it's your money, so do what you feel is best.

I've said it before: if I were leasing or trading every 2-4 years, I'd never open the hood.

Ever.