Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

This isn't really a mod as much as it's an adaptation from my GMC Sierra 1500 SLE's I've had to my GMC Sierra 2500HD AT4.

 

The boards I took out of my 1500 are about 8" to short. Also, the slots are not spaced the same so I cut new boards to fit and added a 3.5" offset to the boards near the tailgate so my coolers, water jugs, etc. fit going to camp.

 

One is a 2x8 with eye bolts for using bungees and the other is a 2x4 to keep the wooden boxes in place if I don't need the 2x8 and can get the Jet Sled over it with a deer in it. I used two 1x deck boards for the spacer along with 5/16 carriage bolts, washers, lock washers and double nuts. The wood boxes are 48" long, the space between the boards is 48.5". I keep a jack, other tool boxes and bags, etc between the other board (2x3 and the cab.

 

It's kind of tricky getting the 2x8 in and out but I don't swap them to often. Usually keep the 2x8 in for securing gas cans when not going to camp.

 

 

 

2x8 with bungee.jpg

2x8 left.jpg

2x8 right.jpg

2x4.jpg

2x4 left.jpg

2x4 right.jpg

Edited by rjgvt
  • Like 1
Posted

I made a 45 degree cut on the bottom corners 1/2" x 1/2" so the boards sit on the bed.

Posted

Nice mods.  I bought a cargo bar for mine to keep things like Jerry cans from sliding all over.  When I had an F150, I had their bed extender/cargo container or whatever.  It was quite clever, could be folded in or out or stowed very easily.  Wish GM had something similar.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,888
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    xdieselmechanic
    Newest Member
    xdieselmechanic
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...