Jump to content

2017 GMC Sierra Electrical Issues

LucasSkyWakka
 Share

Recommended Posts

LucasSkyWakka New Member

LucasSkyWakka

Posted
Posted

Good Afternoon! I’ve been experiencing several issues for quite some time and would love to know if anybody else is experiencing the same.

 

Back in December I had my transmission replaced. One day I took it back for a check up and I noticed that sometimes I’d put the key into the ignition but when I’d turn the key the truck would lose all power. After fidgeting with the battery terminals the truck gained power and would run fine with no issues at all. Maybe a few days later I had the same issue, but eventually the truck would start fine.


Eventually I started getting service messages that said “driver window”. I could roll my window down and the message would eventually disappear. However, maybe a week later my driver window stopped working and I’d still have to fidget with the battery cables for the truck to turn on.

 

i let the truck sit for about a month and noticed I’d lost all power to the truck. I inspected the battery this time and noticed corrosion on my negative terminal so I took the battery out, had the terminals cleaned and charge the battery and had it checked. The battery came back good so I charged it and reconnected it.

 

Now the truck turns on but with a series of service messages, the radio doesn’t work, and the steering wheel controls don’t work. The key fob buttons don’t work either but when I press them the truck does light up. 
 

Has anybody experienced these issues before??

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you have a weak ground issue.

  • Like 1
Niklasbraun Enthusiast

Niklasbraun

Posted
Posted
On 3/9/2024 at 9:25 PM, LucasSkyWakka said:

Good Afternoon! I’ve been experiencing several issues for quite some time and would love to know if anybody else is experiencing the same.

 

Back in December I had my transmission replaced. One day I took it back for a check up and I noticed that sometimes I’d put the key into the ignition but when I’d turn the key the truck would lose all power. After fidgeting with the battery terminals the truck gained power and would run fine with no issues at all. Maybe a few days later I had the same issue, but eventually the truck would start fine.


Eventually I started getting service messages that said “driver window”. I could roll my window down and the message would eventually disappear. However, maybe a week later my driver window stopped working and I’d still have to fidget with the battery cables for the truck to turn on.

 

i let the truck sit for about a month and noticed I’d lost all power to the truck. I inspected the battery this time and noticed corrosion on my negative terminal so I took the battery out, had the terminals cleaned and charge the battery and had it checked. The battery came back good so I charged it and reconnected it.

 

Now the truck turns on but with a series of service messages, the radio doesn’t work, and the steering wheel controls don’t work. The key fob buttons don’t work either but when I press them the truck does light up. 
 

Has anybody experienced these issues before??

I'd recommend starting by checking all your electrical connections, especially those related to the battery terminals and the transmission replacement you mentioned. Since you're experiencing intermittent power loss and seeing service messages pop up regarding the driver window, probably it's a faulty ground connection causing trouble across different systems.

I suggest giving all the ground connections in your vehicle a thorough inspection, especially those connected to components like the transmission and power distribution center. Check the integrity of the electrical wiring harnesses too.

Also, getting a multimeter can help diagnose electrical issues. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...