Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is more of a PSA in case it happens to someone else.

 

I had new struts installed in the front 2 years ago, no problems.  Last year, I switched out the rear air shocks with no issues.  Very intermittently, I'll get a "service suspension" alert on the driver display.  I don't notice a change in handling or ride so never paid much attention.

Last week, I was traveling back from Keystone, CO, and the "service suspension" message came on.  I cleared the message and continued on.  Once out of the mountains, I attempted to set the cruise control but it wouldn't work.  All other steering wheel controls worked including cruise on/off, it just wouldn't set a speed.  Next, I was attempting a pass and around 85 MPH, the truck stopped accelerating regardless of pedal position.  I thought my transmission was going out (204k miles) but kept driving because the family was asleep and no CEL.  Truck would accelerate fine from 50-80 but at 85 it would just stop.  Well, doing some googling led to a discussion about the "service suspension" error triggering a mild limp mode where speed is limited to 85.  Stopped for gas, restarted the engine, and no problems after that and no service suspension message again.

 

Hope this helps someone.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Did you ever find out what the issue was? Was the struts after market? I'm experiencing the same exact issue with my 2019 Suburban

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I put new shocks on the rear again a few weeks ago (65k miles on them and getting rough) and noticed one of the electrical connections wasn't "clicked" in.  I had trouble getting the new one to click in also until I spray the rubber with lubricant and it slid right it.  Haven't had the issue since then.  Also, the message/limiter would reset with turning the car off/on again.

 

BTW, the struts were put in by a shop so I'm not sure if it was OEM or after-market.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)
    • Did you tune out the VVT?  07-09 they did not have VVT.  2010-2013 they did.      If you haven't tuned it, its trying to adjust cam timing.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...