Jump to content

Ac issues

Todd Harvey
 Share

Recommended Posts

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

What are the pressures with the compressor running? First thing that comes to mind is that you have a leak and it's low on freon. Why did you replace the compressor? Did it grenade? You should have changed the accumulator and orifice tube and flushed the evaporator if there was ANY signs of debris in the system. If you don't have a set of refrigerant gauges run down to harbor freight or go online and get a set. Another possibility is the system has been overfilled but without knowing the pressures we would just be guessing

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

That is just the gauge on the can, you need to know high side pressures as well. Are any of the pipes going to the evaporator cold? Did you vacuum the system before refilling after replacing the parts? it is possible the blend door actuator is broken not allowing the cold air into the cabin if the lowside pipe is cold. Did you fill the compressor and replace any oil lost with the condenser change. 

jalexa5834 Enthusiast

jalexa5834

Posted
Posted (edited)

@Todd Harvey I have what may be a similar issue. My 2014 had it's compressor literally blow apart. They had to replace/clean out everything! Worked great for about 1.5 years. Now having cooling issues,again. Went back to shop that did the repair and when they checked everything out, good pressure and everything.  Except it still doesn't cool. I was told I need to have the 'blend' door(s) checked because it may be blending air instead of directly blowing air through the correct vents. Cycling the defrost, heat, and air didn't help. I was told I need to go to the dealership and have them use their scan tool to see if the blend doors are working properly. Apparently there is a little motor that actuator the doors.

 

If anyone knows how I can check this without going to the dealer it would be appreciated!

Edited by jalexa5834
Todd Harvey Enthusiast

Todd Harvey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 minutes ago, jalexa5834 said:

@Todd Harvey I have what be a similar issue. My 2014 had it's compressor literally blow apart. They had to replace/clean out everything! Worked great for about 1.5 years. Now having cooling issues,again. Went back to shop that did the repair and when they checked everything out, good pressure and everything.  Except it still doesn't cool. I was told I need to have the 'blend' door(s) checked because it may be blending air instead of directly blowing air through the correct vents. Cycling the defrost, heat, and air didn't help. I was told I need to go to the dealership and have them use their scan tool to see if the blend doors are working properly. Apparently there is a little motor that actuator the doors.

 

If anyone knows how I can check this without going to the dealer it would be appreciated!

See I was told everything under the hood had been replaced and it was all good. They told me if that didn't fix it then It was something behind the dash but didn't say what it was. They also told me it would be another $500 after I've already put $1000 into it

jalexa5834 Enthusiast

jalexa5834

Posted
Posted

@Todd Harvey Dang! It cost me close to $3,000 when mine blew up! My compressor had a big hole in the bottom when it failed! Freon was everywhere under the hood. Now, if I have to go to a dealership and have it checked. Then, if I elect to have them repair it, several hundred more! I live in NorCal and this past week it was over 106°!! And, my truck is black! I'm hardly driving it now; just too hot. Luckily my wife has a Yukon that blows cool air.

 

Anyone know how I can check those doors without have to go to the dealership?

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

A scan tool that does body codes should be all that is needed to check it That is crazy $, the actuator is less than $100 and about an hour to change. Sounds like your garage is sending you down the road because they do not know how to fix it after taking your $. I'm not sure if the parts store scanners do body codes but it's worth asking.

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted (edited)

The txv should be changed with the compressor.  A defective txv is likely the root cause of the no cool it. They adjust the superheat of the evaporator. It's a refrigerant metering device. 

 

The drier in the bottom of the condenser should be changed as well.

Edited by Snowcamo
  • Like 1
MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)

Cabin air filter behind the glove box can get clogged up and block air flow, with the blower running on high and not much cooling occurring.  Probably not that easy, but worth a look. 

 

Those blend door actuators suck. Apparently they're all made in China and have a short life expectancy. There's like 8 of them, they cost $25-50 each pre-Bidenomics and they have to tear half the dash apart to do some of them. 2 of ours are out at any given time since off warranty, only $400+ to fix each time, "non user serviceable" because you have to use a $3000 scan tool with special GM programming to recognize the new servos and realign the system doors. 🤬

Edited by MaverickZ71
  • Like 1
jalexa5834 Enthusiast

jalexa5834

Posted
Posted

@Snowcamo I was told that everything had to be replaced at the time because some of the compressor went all through the system. Never hurts to pull up that invoice and see what's listed, huh?!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 435 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...