Installing reman transmission in my 2014 Silverado in a week or two

[BraydenH]

I’ve done a trans swap on an old s10 and another on a 04 Tahoe but that was nearly 10 years ago and they weren’t anything fancy and I know that my 2014 Silverado won’t be much different but here’s my questions, with the reason for my trans swap being a failed torque converter situation that filled my trans with metal and had trans fluid looking more like burnt engine oil then anything, would I still be able to swap the teckm’s so I wouldn’t have to have dealer do a reprogramming on it and if that’s not a good idea then will I be able to drive it 15min or so to the dealership after the swap, also any recommendations on any other things I should do during the swap(like replace engines rear main seal ofc)?  Any and all pointers much appreciated 

[Jsdirt]

Well, I don't want to pee on your fire, but it's going to be just a bit more difficult than those 2 vehicles you mentioned. You wouldn't think it would be much different, but once you get into it, you'll begin to realize the manufacturer designed this thing to make the most determined among us to throw in the towel and never do anything like it again. It's not impossible, but it will not be a cakewalk under any circumstances. Just be thankful you live in ND, and not the Northeast where road salt rust will confound an already infuriating task.

 

As far as the computerized part of it goes, this is Global A architecture - a word that sends shivers up most tech's spines. You need to be super careful with this, since if you attempt to install ANY module out of any other vehicle, you can cause yourself a string of headaches that may cause you to set fire to the thing. Many a tech as been burned by this. GM snuck this one in around 2011, and guys like myself that would rather be turning wrenches than sitting at a desk staring at a computer screen for 8 hours straight were caught blindsided by Global A. I haven't experienced it myself, but I have heard of an entire vehicle being bricked due to installing a used ECM, or BCM from another vehicle, inevitably ending in the replacement of EVERY SINGLE module in the vehicle, costing THOUSANDS by the time all is said and done. Seems to be a crapshoot as to how screwed you'll be by doing that. The good thing is, 2014 was 10 years ago, so most of the pitfalls are known, so do LOTS of research and reading on that topic.

 

There may be different opinions on this, but any time I do a tough job like this, ANYTHING that could possibly fail WILL get changed while I'm in there. I've got burned countless times on my own vehicles in an attempt to save work, time, or a buck. EVERY TIME!! I'd replace the rear main. Make sure you buy something good, like Fel-Pro, or OE. Another pitfall GM engineered in these days is none of the covers - front or rear- have any dowel pins in them, so locating the cover is CRUCIAL to a good seal replacement job. They make a special tool for this, but I hear some guys have tricks for doing it without the tool. Me? I don't do well doing a job twice, so I'd just buy the tool and sell it on eBay ... or keep it until you sell the truck some time down the road.

 

I did a trans swap on my 2007 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 & 4L60E back in 2020. Was the most infuriating job I have EVER done in my life!! Everything from the plastic grille, the exhaust manifold flange nuts, transmission cooler lines, and the bellhousing bolts fought me tooth and nail! Took me 2 weeks WITH a lift ... but that was me walking away several times, or else I was going to push that POS off a cliff ... AFTER I set it on fire!!  After that job it was the beginning of the end of my career turning wrenches. It soured me so bad that I completely lost my fire for the job. Ended up closing shop in February 2023 and never looked back. Sold everything I owned that was built after 1995, and I haven't been happier! 

 

If you were lucky enough (or unlucky, depending on how you look at it ...) to be around when carbureted V8 cars were the norm, these newer vehicles are going to drive you absolutely insane with their piss-poor engineering and serviceability. If you've grown up with 21st century vehicles and all their electronics, this might not be quite as bad for you, since you're young enough to handle the stress. Everyone's different.  This is just my take on things after 30+ years of driving them and wrenching on them.

 

Good luck ... and DON'T FORGET TO FLUSH THAT COOLER AND LINES!! When you think it's clean, do it SIX MORE TIMES. If you don't think you can get them clean, REPLACE ALL OF IT.

 

I'd post pics of my ordeal, but this site is a PITA to post pics on. But, I've got an endless YouTube saga of the job if you're extremely bored for the next 3 hours. Links to part 2 & 3 are in the description. NIGHTMARE JOB!!!

 

 

 

Edited December 26, 2024 by Jsdirt

[BraydenH]

4 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Well, I don't want to pee on your fire, but it's going to be just a bit more difficult than those 2 vehicles you mentioned. You wouldn't think it would be much different, but once you get into it, you'll begin to realize the manufacturer designed this thing to make the most determined among us to throw in the towel and never do anything like it again. It's not impossible, but it will not be a cakewalk under any circumstances. Just be thankful you live in ND, and not the Northeast where road salt rust will confound an already infuriating task.

 

As far as the computerized part of it goes, this is Global A architecture - a word that sends shivers up most tech's spines. You need to be super careful with this, since if you attempt to install ANY module out of any other vehicle, you can cause yourself a string of headaches that may cause you to set fire to the thing. Many a tech as been burned by this. GM snuck this one in around 2011, and guys like myself that would rather be turning wrenches than sitting at a desk staring at a computer screen for 8 hours straight were caught blindsided by Global A. I haven't experienced it myself, but I have heard of an entire vehicle being bricked due to installing a used ECM, or BCM from another vehicle, inevitably ending in the replacement of EVERY SINGLE module in the vehicle, costing THOUSANDS by the time all is said and done. Seems to be a crapshoot as to how screwed you'll be by doing that. The good thing is, 2014 was 10 years ago, so most of the pitfalls are known, so do LOTS of research and reading on that topic.

 

There may be different opinions on this, but any time I do a tough job like this, ANYTHING that could possibly fail WILL get changed while I'm in there. I've got burned countless times on my own vehicles in an attempt to save work, time, or a buck. EVERY TIME!! I'd replace the rear main. Make sure you buy something good, like Fel-Pro, or OE. Another pitfall GM engineered in these days is none of the covers - front or rear- have any dowel pins in them, so locating the cover is CRUCIAL to a good seal replacement job. They make a special tool for this, but I hear some guys have tricks for doing it without the tool. Me? I don't do well doing a job twice, so I'd just buy the tool and sell it on eBay ... or keep it until you sell the truck some time down the road.

 

I did a trans swap on my 2007 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 & 4L60E back in 2020. Was the most infuriating job I have EVER done in my life!! Everything from the plastic grille, the exhaust manifold flange nuts, transmission cooler lines, and the bellhousing bolts fought me tooth and nail! Took me 2 weeks WITH a lift ... but that was me walking away several times, or else I was going to push that POS off a cliff ... AFTER I set it on fire!!  After that job it was the beginning of the end of my career turning wrenches. It soured me so bad that I completely lost my fire for the job. Ended up closing shop in February 2023 and never looked back. Sold everything I owned that was built after 1995, and I haven't been happier! 

 

If you were lucky enough (or unlucky, depending on how you look at it ...) to be around when carbureted V8 cars were the norm, these newer vehicles are going to drive you absolutely insane with their piss-poor engineering and serviceability. If you've grown up with 21st century vehicles and all their electronics, this might not be quite as bad for you, since you're young enough to handle the stress. Everyone's different.  This is just my take on things after 30+ years of driving them and wrenching on them.

 

Good luck ... and DON'T FORGET TO FLUSH THAT COOLER AND LINES!! When you think it's clean, do it SIX MORE TIMES. If you don't think you can get them clean, REPLACE ALL OF IT.

 

I'd post pics of my ordeal, but this site is a PITA to post pics on. But, I've got an endless YouTube saga of the job if you're extremely bored for the next 3 hours. Links to part 2 & 3 are in the description. NIGHTMARE JOB!!!

 

 

 

Super solid words and ty for pointers. I’ve always been good at reverse engineering and figuring things out so I think I’m still gunna go at the trans swap myself but you’ve swayed me to not open up the reman to swap the tcm. I’ve watched literally 20 or more clips on remove and install trans and 50 or more on rebuild the 6l80 over the past couple weeks while I shopped around for a decent deal not knowing if I was going with rebuild or reman or a used unit. I’ll just have to tow or trailer it to dealership after the install for programming. I called them a week ago or so to see what it’s cost and I think it was 145$ or so and I can live with that.   Was literally just watching how to rebuild the techm and replacing the 4 valve body seals on it but with your post I’ll just get reman reprogrammed for sure 

[Jsdirt]

From what I understand, you can't even program a used part to work in Global A vehicles. It just flat won't work. You'd have to use the original module and program THAT to the new part. I could be wrong .... but that's how it was explained to me many years back. 

 

I'd talk to someone - anyone - doesn't have to be a dealership, that does programming.

 

In fact, I'd recommend you steer clear of the dealer. If things don't go exactly as expected, the dealership isn't the place you'd want the truck to be at. They parts swap rather than troubleshoot, so you could find yourself a thousand dollars in the hole just because something wasn't as they expected it. You'd be better served at a small local (or even NOT local - the drive will be worth it. Trust me on that one!) shop that does programming.

 

A transmission shop will have the answers you're looking for, so I would call a few reputable ones for the answers. 

[BraydenH]

1 minute ago, Jsdirt said:

From what I understand, you can't even program a used part to work in Global A vehicles. It just flat won't work. You'd have to use the original module and program THAT to the new part. I could be wrong .... but that's how it was explained to me many years back. 

 

I'd talk to someone - anyone - doesn't have to be a dealership, that does programming.

 

In fact, I'd recommend you steer clear of the dealer. If things don't go exactly as expected, the dealership isn't the place you'd want the truck to be at. They parts swap rather than troubleshoot, so you could find yourself a thousand dollars in the hole just because something wasn't as they expected it. You'd be better served at a small local (or even NOT local - the drive will be worth it. Trust me on that one!) shop that does programming.

 

A transmission shop will have the answers you're looking for, so I would call a few reputable ones for the answers. 

Good point. I replaced my wheel bearings and rear dif carrier bearings a few months ago and called dealership for shim kit for rear dif and they wanted 150$ and was the only place in town that had it on stock which is wild because I live in Fargo and it’s not a small city and I called EVERYWHERE but yea dealership isn’t cheap at all and I know it but again great advice and I will absolutely source a decent transmission shop here in town and talk with them first 

[Jsdirt]

Sounds exactly like my '07. Just 6k miles before I shot that YouTube video, my spider gears shed the tips of most of their teeth off, so I had to upgrade the rear diff as well.

 

Amazing how GM does ZERO improvements to their lineup after 7 model years. Hell, the brand new stuff hasn't been improved either! They just don't care these days. 

 

 

[BraydenH]

11 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

From what I understand, you can't even program a used part to work in Global A vehicles. It just flat won't work. You'd have to use the original module and program THAT to the new part. I could be wrong .... but that's how it was explained to me many years back. 

 

I'd talk to someone - anyone - doesn't have to be a dealership, that does programming.

 

In fact, I'd recommend you steer clear of the dealer. If things don't go exactly as expected, the dealership isn't the place you'd want the truck to be at. They parts swap rather than troubleshoot, so you could find yourself a thousand dollars in the hole just because something wasn't as they expected it. You'd be better served at a small local (or even NOT local - the drive will be worth it. Trust me on that one!) shop that does programming.

 

A transmission shop will have the answers you're looking for, so I would call a few reputable ones for the answers. 

Is it an option to take out all components of the trans cooling system to have a shop flush it all out with one of their continuously circulating setups or do you think a guy should be alright with enough flushes with compressor and cans and stuff? 

[Jsdirt]

Yeah, a shop can use an A/C flush setup, or whatever they have - that's no problem. They'd probably use cans anyway if you brought it to them since the might not be able to get a solid seal on just the lines themselves.

 

I'd have a transmission shop handle that, since they are very familiar with this process and probably have better equipment for it.

 

You just want to be 1,000% sure you've got it spotless. Nothing worse than doing all that work only to have it all ruined by something that wasn't clean.

Edited December 26, 2024 by Jsdirt

[BraydenH]

11 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Sounds exactly like my '07. Just 6k miles before I shot that YouTube video, my spider gears shed the tips of most of their teeth off, so I had to upgrade the rear diff as well.

 

Amazing how GM does ZERO improvements to their lineup after 7 model years. Hell, the brand new stuff hasn't been improved either! They just don't care these days. 

 

 

I couldn’t agree more but I don’t make it too easy on myself either with my 35’s on the ol girl lol. I think I’m gunna drain the trans fluid and then take it to trans shop to have system flushed super good then do swap and reconnect lines and fill and back to trans shop for reprogramming 

[Jsdirt]

We used to put massive tires on the trucks we had in the 70's and 80's, 44" on some, then do engine mods that far exceeded (doubled in most cases!) the anemic power outputs they left the factory with in those days, and even with endless abuse, I rarely saw problems like I constantly see today with modern vehicles. Wish I could go back in time and just stockpile those old trucks and parts for them. We'd run them like that until the odometers (5-digits back then) went around and around. Seems these days 100k is the new 300k.

 

Just so I understand your post, don't drive it there to have that done since you don't want to contaminate the fresh flush job with the contaminated fluid in your transmission right now. Take the whole assembly off and bring it there, and don't reinstall it until the trans swap is finished.  

[BraydenH]

11 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Yeah, a shop can use an A/C flush setup, or whatever they have - that's no problem. They'd probably use cans anyway if you brought it to them since the might not be able to get a solid seal on just the lines themselves.

 

I'd have a transmission shop handle that, since they are very familiar with this process and probably have better equipment for it.

 

You just want to be 1,000% sure you've got it spotless. Nothing worse than doing all that work only to have it all ruined by something that wasn't clean.

Absolutely. I watched one clip of a guy who cut a cooler in half to show how difficult it is to get them flushed completely clean due to how they’re made. Enjoying your 4l60e vid so far btw