Jump to content

Need help wiring an amp

SlownewLM2
 Share

Recommended Posts

SlownewLM2 Enthusiast

SlownewLM2

Posted
Posted (edited)

I’m putting two 10” skar subs under the backseat and running an old school Punch 150 cheater amp. I don’t know how to wire up an old school amp to a newer truck, I’ve got wires coming out of the amp that I don’t know where they are supposed to go. I’ll attach some photos.
 

this is the box I’m going with, figured it would be a nice touch.

IMG_6792.thumb.png.7d5301b8a16b49c7e4c822f8f1dda2e3.png
 

This is the amp and an install packet, and a wire code sheet for the truck it was supposed to go into which isn’t mine. I don’t know which wires I need, which ones I don’t need. Where any of these wires go or what they are supposed to go to. If anyone could give me some pointers or what to do I would be very thankful.

IMG_6777.thumb.jpeg.d6e55c6c89aa53eaae67e3b4e2ab8638.jpeg

Edited by SlowoldLM2
taze Enthusiast

taze

Posted
Posted

If you can get some more pictures of the connections on the amp, that'd be good. What year truck? Bose? One good place that might be helpful is looking at the instructions for the GM Kicker package install and see where they're connecting things. There's several threads on that here. One of them is 

Not 100% sure your amp takes speaker level inputs, but I think it does. Otherwise, you could use a line output converter like a LC2i. There are some people that also make custom harnesses so you don't have to tap into wires. SoundsGoodStereo has one, for a Bose truck anyway. One of their options includes an LOC. 

My truck is Bose and I used a harness from Subthump, but I don't see it any more, and connected it to an LC2i to be able to add some bass as the Bose rolls it out when you turn up the stereo.

 

  • 1 month later...
SlownewLM2 Enthusiast

SlownewLM2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/28/2025 at 12:54 PM, taze said:

If you can get some more pictures of the connections on the amp, that'd be good. What year truck? Bose? One good place that might be helpful is looking at the instructions for the GM Kicker package install and see where they're connecting things. There's several threads on that here. One of them is 

Not 100% sure your amp takes speaker level inputs, but I think it does. Otherwise, you could use a line output converter like a LC2i. There are some people that also make custom harnesses so you don't have to tap into wires. SoundsGoodStereo has one, for a Bose truck anyway. One of their options includes an LOC. 

My truck is Bose and I used a harness from Subthump, but I don't see it any more, and connected it to an LC2i to be able to add some bass as the Bose rolls it out when you turn up the stereo.

 

Hey man, sorry for the month and a half late response I completely forgot about this deal. It’s a 2021 sierra 1500 with the factory Bose sound system. I’m wiring the punch amp to just deal with the 2 10’s not linked with the Bose system. Was talking to one of my buddies earlier about the amp and it won’t take speaker level input and he recommended a LC2I output converter as well. As far as harness goes I don’t know what you mean, I’ve already got what I need except I’ll have to run a ground, a wire for the power and just the RCA’s into the stereo. The LC2I I’m gonna look into on how to wire them up. I’ve been told their difficult.

taze Enthusiast

taze

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, SlownewLM2 said:

Hey man, sorry for the month and a half late response I completely forgot about this deal. It’s a 2021 sierra 1500 with the factory Bose sound system. I’m wiring the punch amp to just deal with the 2 10’s not linked with the Bose system. Was talking to one of my buddies earlier about the amp and it won’t take speaker level input and he recommended a LC2I output converter as well. As far as harness goes I don’t know what you mean, I’ve already got what I need except I’ll have to run a ground, a wire for the power and just the RCA’s into the stereo. The LC2I I’m gonna look into on how to wire them up. I’ve been told their difficult.

 

No worries, I understand how these projects get put on the back burner.

 

The harness I was referring to was to create a speaker level input for the LC2i without splicing/tapping in to any other wires in your truck. You definitely don't need it and that link I put in that first reply has the information on what wires to tap to feed your LC2i.

Then the RCAs from the LC2i go to your Punch amp and then speaker wire from there to your subs.

  • 4 weeks later...
SlownewLM2 Enthusiast

SlownewLM2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 6/6/2025 at 4:45 PM, taze said:

 

No worries, I understand how these projects get put on the back burner.

 

The harness I was referring to was to create a speaker level input for the LC2i without splicing/tapping in to any other wires in your truck. You definitely don't need it and that link I put in that first reply has the information on what wires to tap to feed your LC2i.

Then the RCAs from the LC2i go to your Punch amp and then speaker wire from there to your subs.

Gotcha thanks, I’m getting to the sound system in a few weeks right now I’m tussling with a starlight headliner kit. Do I need an epicenter as well or just the LC2i?

taze Enthusiast

taze

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, SlownewLM2 said:

Gotcha thanks, I’m getting to the sound system in a few weeks right now I’m tussling with a starlight headliner kit. Do I need an epicenter as well or just the LC2i?

No sir, if you go with the LC2i you don't need an epicenter. The LC2i has the capability to "restore" bass already.

SlownewLM2 Enthusiast

SlownewLM2

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 7/2/2025 at 12:15 PM, taze said:

No sir, if you go with the LC2i you don't need an epicenter. The LC2i has the capability to "restore" bass already.

Gotcha thanks brother. LC2I has been ordered. I’m thinking about making a small amp rack that goes under the drivers seat and running the wires under the floor mats to the sub box. I’ve seen one guy that got a custom amp rack that goes behind the backseat. If I made one with sheet metal it would go under the driver seat and house the amp and the LC2i. Wouldn't protrude past the seats dimensions or anything. It would be closer as well. Any thoughts? Amp rack under the seat or behind the backseat? 

Edited by SlownewLM2
taze Enthusiast

taze

Posted
Posted
On 7/5/2025 at 9:44 PM, SlownewLM2 said:

Gotcha thanks brother. LC2I has been ordered. I’m thinking about making a small amp rack that goes under the drivers seat and running the wires under the floor mats to the sub box. I’ve seen one guy that got a custom amp rack that goes behind the backseat. If I made one with sheet metal it would go under the driver seat and house the amp and the LC2i. Wouldn't protrude past the seats dimensions or anything. It would be closer as well. Any thoughts? Amp rack under the seat or behind the backseat? 

I had amps screwed into the carpet under my seats in my '97 Tahoe and cables under the carpet for ≈20 years without issue. The one under the rear seat did have a board under the carpet it was screwed into, IIRC. 

 

On this truck, I'm probably going the lazy way out and buying a pre-cut rack from Sounds Good Stereo to go behind the seat. All the connections I'm using are back there anyway with the Bose amp. Kind of expensive, but I think it'll save me time and effort, and I think that's worth something.  https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2019-2021-gmc-sierra-chevrolet-silverado-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate-board

 

Either way will work fine, so it's really which one do you feel like doing. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 623 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • rdonarski
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By rdonarski · Posted

      This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...