Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Here is what im looking for.. JUST a muffler replacement. I am not interested in cat back systems.

RIght now it has the stock 55 gallon drum but I want something that has a deep idle and aggressive sound when the throttle is punched. Because i hae a wife/kids  and we take my truck on 400 miles road trips all the time, i cant have interior drone.

I was thinking about a flowmaster super 50, but then ive heard that people just straight pipe it but leave in the flapper and the resonator parts.

I absolutely do not want it sound like trailer trash toms tub of ****** screaming down the street :)

TIA

2019 LT, 5.3, Crew Cab, Short bed, Single pipe exhaust.

Posted

IMO, its hard to beat a well engineered catback like a Corsa or Borla. 

 

I've had 3 Corsa systems and they produced truly zero drone.  I had a Magnaflow catback once, had some drone.  I did dual mufflers once, stainless Dynomax built like a Flowmaster, so smaller bodied muffler, nothing but drone. 

 

So, IMO, stock or Corsa or Borla catback would be the way to go.   

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree with newdude,  the Corsa on my 2019 with the 6.2 has the best sound, especially when you get on the throttle but nice and quiet on the interstate.  It does have a little loud growl on cold start up but quiets down fast. Corsa and other companies spend serious $$$ developing their systems. It's way more than just a muffler drop in.

  • Like 2
Posted

Since you don't want a catback, you can save a BUNCH of $$ and have zero drone with great sound if you just go to Borlas or Corsas  website and pick one from them.

The crappy Flowmasters and the like ALL drone and last a very short time if you live where there are 4 seasons.

Cheers

 

Posted

Screenshot_20251012_125722_Gallery.thumb.jpg.b8e2a503348874e7694472319a62d4a5.jpgI recently installed the AWE OFG true dual cat back system with H pipe, on my 2020 Denali 6.2L. AWE guarantees no drone with it's 180° technology. 

I can testify to that. There is absolutely no drone at any speed. And it is the best sounding exaust on the planet. It is also beautifully constructed from high quality stainless steel.  It really looks and sounds fantastic.  I had a muffler delete before the AWE system, and that caused a drone, very bad at part throttle, and I was very happy to finally get the OFG system with the black crome quad tips. I am no longer a member of the HDMI Club!  I know you said you did not want it real loud or have a drone at speed. This system is expensive, but guaranteed for a lifetime,  and has no drone at all. It is quite loud on cold start-up,  but quiets down quickly. The 6.2 breaths eaiser, sounds amazing, looks great, with no drone at all. One of the best mods ever, along with a Diablew tune, what a blast to drive!

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/22/2025 at 9:43 PM, SIXFOUR said:

Screenshot_20251012_125722_Gallery.thumb.jpg.b8e2a503348874e7694472319a62d4a5.jpgI recently installed the AWE OFG true dual cat back system with H pipe, on my 2020 Denali 6.2L. AWE guarantees no drone with it's 180° technology. 

I can testify to that. There is absolutely no drone at any speed. And it is the best sounding exaust on the planet. It is also beautifully constructed from high quality stainless steel.  It really looks and sounds fantastic.  I had a muffler delete before the AWE system, and that caused a drone, very bad at part throttle, and I was very happy to finally get the OFG system with the black crome quad tips. I am no longer a member of the HDMI Club!  I know you said you did not want it real loud or have a drone at speed. This system is expensive, but guaranteed for a lifetime,  and has no drone at all. It is quite loud on cold start-up,  but quiets down quickly. The 6.2 breaths eaiser, sounds amazing, looks great, with no drone at all. One of the best mods ever, along with a Diablew tune, what a blast to drive!

I agree with you but he stated that he did not want a complete system and a muffler at a few hundred bucks is a big step from nearly $3000 bucks.

Posted
4 hours ago, johnnyquick said:

I agree with you but he stated that he did not want a complete system and a muffler at a few hundred bucks is a big step from nearly $3000 bucks.

You are absolutely correct. I saved for almost a year to get the system,  it is not cheap. I lived with the delete pipe for some time, and the first start up had me smiling. There definitely was a drone about 1500- 1800. It wasn't so loud that it upset others, but it was a rough exhaust  sound. I did not like that after the cats, it went into a Y back to a single and back to a Y split and reduced to 2.5 inch over the axel and just ends at the funky HDMI bumper cutouts. Now it is 3" from the cats, all the way out the back, and quad tips that fit the cutouts just right.

Cheapest cost and for it to  sound like a truck, is muffler delete, and keep the rear resonators, I belive the rear weighted valve is cutout to install. The front flapper valve stays, if your exaust has 2. You will of course definitely have some drone, but not break the bank, and it would sound like a truck. Also the 5' oem muffler weighs about 80 lbs.  Scrap that thing. IMHO 

Posted
On 10/21/2025 at 11:23 PM, johnnyquick said:

Since you don't want a catback, you can save a BUNCH of $$ and have zero drone with great sound if you just go to Borlas or Corsas  website and pick one from them.

The crappy Flowmasters and the like ALL drone and last a very short time if you live where there are 4 seasons.

Cheers

 

Im in TX. We have two seasons.. Hot and Cool :)

 

Posted
1 hour ago, lennybg said:

Im in TX. We have two seasons.. Hot and Cool :)

 

Buy  muffler from Corsa or Borla and dont look back, even the delete pipe is $100 bucks and for a couple hundred more you will have "Music" to your ears...😂 

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/21/2025 at 9:58 AM, lennybg said:

Here is what im looking for.. JUST a muffler replacement. I am not interested in cat back systems.

RIght now it has the stock 55 gallon drum but I want something that has a deep idle and aggressive sound when the throttle is punched. Because i hae a wife/kids  and we take my truck on 400 miles road trips all the time, i cant have interior drone.

I was thinking about a flowmaster super 50, but then ive heard that people just straight pipe it but leave in the flapper and the resonator parts.

I absolutely do not want it sound like trailer trash toms tub of ****** screaming down the street :)

TIA

2019 LT, 5.3, Crew Cab, Short bed, Single pipe exhaust.

What did you decide on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 338 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...