Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone leveled thier truck by torsion bar adjustment? 2024 HD 

Some information on YouTube. Would like to hear from you how it went and how is the ride quality?

 

  • Sad 1
Posted

You can gain a little bit of height. 

 

Observe the clearance from the upper control arm to its droop limit tab on the frame. Less clearance, worse ride quality. 

 

Do not confuse the above with the space between jounce bumper (bump stop) and lower control arm.

 

Generally, anything greater than 2" is too much and results in increased wear to ball joints specifically, but other parts too. 

 

An alignment will be required after adjusting.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Like @asilverblazer says, there are lots of things to consider. 

 

Cranking up the torsion keys is easy but you will be running out of movement in the stock setup. 

 

I did the SuspensionMaxx torsion keys and took them up 1.75". I did some other things to open up the range of travel and changed the upper control arms too. If you want range, range be prepared to remove the droop stops but that comes with other risks like snapping ball joints, etc...

 

It may be that if you are looking to level the truck, you might want to look at doing more than just keys for the long term usability of your truck. 

 

You can also look at getting some AT4X front end components to do a nice level on your truck.

 

I did a level on mine and one of the side affects is the ride is much better than with the Z71 package (so called off road kit). I am running King shocks and a bunch of other things.

 

Running 295/70R18 tires in this picture and about 800 lbs on the rear (including the barrels and the rack/tent

image.thumb.jpeg.be08600da50d5b904a1611ad5c3af28d.jpeg

Posted
On 6/2/2026 at 10:27 AM, asilverblazer said:

You can gain a little bit of height. 

 

Observe the clearance from the upper control arm to its droop limit tab on the frame. Less clearance, worse ride quality. 

 

Do not confuse the above with the space between jounce bumper (bump stop) and lower control arm.

 

Generally, anything greater than 2" is too much and results in increased wear to ball joints specifically, but other parts too. 

 

An alignment will be required after adjusting.

 

Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.

Posted
On 6/2/2026 at 12:48 PM, PBNB said:

Like @asilverblazer says, there are lots of things to consider. 

 

Cranking up the torsion keys is easy but you will be running out of movement in the stock setup. 

 

I did the SuspensionMaxx torsion keys and took them up 1.75". I did some other things to open up the range of travel and changed the upper control arms too. If you want range, range be prepared to remove the droop stops but that comes with other risks like snapping ball joints, etc...

 

It may be that if you are looking to level the truck, you might want to look at doing more than just keys for the long term usability of your truck. 

 

You can also look at getting some AT4X front end components to do a nice level on your truck.

 

I did a level on mine and one of the side affects is the ride is much better than with the Z71 package (so called off road kit). I am running King shocks and a bunch of other things.

 

Running 295/70R18 tires in this picture and about 800 lbs on the rear (including the barrels and the rack/tent

image.thumb.jpeg.be08600da50d5b904a1611ad5c3af28d.jpeg

Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/2/2026 at 12:48 PM, PBNB said:

Like @asilverblazer says, there are lots of things to consider. 

 

Cranking up the torsion keys is easy but you will be running out of movement in the stock setup. 

 

I did the SuspensionMaxx torsion keys and took them up 1.75". I did some other things to open up the range of travel and changed the upper control arms too. If you want range, range be prepared to remove the droop stops but that comes with other risks like snapping ball joints, etc...

 

It may be that if you are looking to level the truck, you might want to look at doing more than just keys for the long term usability of your truck. 

 

You can also look at getting some AT4X front end components to do a nice level on your truck.

 

I did a level on mine and one of the side affects is the ride is much better than with the Z71 package (so called off road kit). I am running King shocks and a bunch of other things.

 

Running 295/70R18 tires in this picture and about 800 lbs on the rear (including the barrels and the rack/tent

image.thumb.jpeg.be08600da50d5b904a1611ad5c3af28d.jpeg

Did you install the kit yourself?

Posted

 

4 minutes ago, riddler said:

Did you install the kit yourself?

 

Yes, in January no less!

 

I did the Cognito 1" rear blocks and replaced the Ranchos with Kings first, then the front. 

 

I replaced the upper control arms with the Cognito boxed version. 

Cognito instructions want to trim the droop stops a bit. The Kings provide the droop stop now. 

 

I replaced the Ranchos with Kings. 

 

I got the kit from SuspensionMaxx, but didn't use the little shock extensions, I set the keys at 1.75" (you will need a torsion key tool to do this as the adjuster bolt is pretty tight under load).

 

I installed the diff drop spacers and skid plate spacers the came with that kit. 

 

Then took the truck for an alignment. The diff drop spacers were fun as you need to be a contortionist to get some of these parts installed.

 

The shocks have adjustable settings and I am running them on the lighter side which makes the ride much nicer. The Ranchos were so stiff and dead feeling.

 

I did get a lot of guidance from Filthy Motorsports, who dialled the shocks in, before shipping them to me. If you are looking for some guidance, I would suggest a call to Ben over there.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.f747f77df62b95ff701c456eba90db3a.jpeg

 

Posted
14 minutes ago, PBNB said:

 

 

Yes, in January no less!

 

I did the Cognito 1" rear blocks and replaced the Ranchos with Kings first, then the front. 

 

I replaced the upper control arms with the Cognito boxed version. 

Cognito instructions want to trim the droop stops a bit. The Kings provide the droop stop now. 

 

I replaced the Ranchos with Kings. 

 

I got the kit from SuspensionMaxx, but didn't use the little shock extensions, I set the keys at 1.75" (you will need a torsion key tool to do this as the adjuster bolt is pretty tight under load).

 

I installed the diff drop spacers and skid plate spacers the came with that kit. 

 

Then took the truck for an alignment. The diff drop spacers were fun as you need to be a contortionist to get some of these parts installed.

 

The shocks have adjustable settings and I am running them on the lighter side which makes the ride much nicer. The Ranchos were so stiff and dead feeling.

 

I did get a lot of guidance from Filthy Motorsports, who dialled the shocks in, before shipping them to me. If you are looking for some guidance, I would suggest a call to Ben over there.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.f747f77df62b95ff701c456eba90db3a.jpeg

 

👍🏻your tires are sick! Looks like KO3'S. Where did you get the torsion key tool? 

  • Like 1
Posted
24 minutes ago, PBNB said:

 

 

Yes, in January no less!

 

I did the Cognito 1" rear blocks and replaced the Ranchos with Kings first, then the front. 

 

I replaced the upper control arms with the Cognito boxed version. 

Cognito instructions want to trim the droop stops a bit. The Kings provide the droop stop now. 

 

I replaced the Ranchos with Kings. 

 

I got the kit from SuspensionMaxx, but didn't use the little shock extensions, I set the keys at 1.75" (you will need a torsion key tool to do this as the adjuster bolt is pretty tight under load).

 

I installed the diff drop spacers and skid plate spacers the came with that kit. 

 

Then took the truck for an alignment. The diff drop spacers were fun as you need to be a contortionist to get some of these parts installed.

 

The shocks have adjustable settings and I am running them on the lighter side which makes the ride much nicer. The Ranchos were so stiff and dead feeling.

 

I did get a lot of guidance from Filthy Motorsports, who dialled the shocks in, before shipping them to me. If you are looking for some guidance, I would suggest a call to Ben over there.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.f747f77df62b95ff701c456eba90db3a.jpeg

 

https://a.co/d/08bZesRX

Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, riddler said:

This clamp style works the best. The wrap around design would be tough the use!

 

https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/2011-super-t-maxx-torsion-bar-unloading-installation-tool/

 

I rented a similar one from the local parts location (Canadian Tire) and in the end it doesn't cost anything because you return it and get a full refund, sort of like a tool exchange program.

 

The tires are Falken AT4W's I got the dealer to put them on the truck when we bought it. The truck had ~25k miles on it and the Michelins were worn and looked tiny on the truck.

 

Here is a pic of it at the dealership just before we bought it.Screenshot2024-11-17at11_07_55AM.thumb.png.edb2918ef95cd2d5480ddc2f3b540998.png

Edited by PBNB
Posted
1 hour ago, PBNB said:

This clamp style works the best. The wrap around design would be tough the use!

 

https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/2011-super-t-maxx-torsion-bar-unloading-installation-tool/

 

I rented a similar one from the local parts location (Canadian Tire) and in the end it doesn't cost anything because you return it and get a full refund, sort of like a tool exchange program.

 

The tires are Falken AT4W's I got the dealer to put them on the truck when we bought it. The truck had ~25k miles on it and the Michelins were worn and looked tiny on the truck.

 

Here is a pic of it at the dealership just before we bought it.Screenshot2024-11-17at11_07_55AM.thumb.png.edb2918ef95cd2d5480ddc2f3b540998.png

👍🏻👍🏻

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Here is my '26 with just the torsions adjusted up approximately 1.5", aligned & good to go.  Ride is somewhat stiffer but level & looks great IMO.  

Tires are Nitto Trail Grappler MT's 35 x 12.5 x 20 on stock rims.

Truck has about 14,500 miles

 

TrailBoss26.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
34 minutes ago, Bloody Marty said:

Here is my '26 with just the torsions adjusted up approximately 1.5", aligned & good to go.  Ride is somewhat stiffer but level & looks great IMO.  

Tires are Nitto Trail Grappler MT's 35 x 12.5 x 20 on stock rims.

Truck has about 14,500 miles

 

TrailBoss26.jpg

Thanks for this. I haven't made up my mind yet. This is a good option. Looks good. 👍🏻

Posted
36 minutes ago, Bloody Marty said:

Here is my '26 with just the torsions adjusted up approximately 1.5", aligned & good to go.  Ride is somewhat stiffer but level & looks great IMO.  

Tires are Nitto Trail Grappler MT's 35 x 12.5 x 20 on stock rims.

Truck has about 14,500 miles

 

TrailBoss26.jpg

No rubbing?

Posted
23 minutes ago, riddler said:

No rubbing?

 

None, I don't generally go off road either though.  Daily driver & weekend towing is all.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 312 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...