Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

On 8/3/2026 at 9:48 AM, diyer2 said:

I had a boat for many years, never had a problem even with a 2 wheel drive 93 Silvy for 20 years. Good tires, proper use of the gas pedal worked.

This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic. 

 

 

Edited by rdonarski
Pictures
Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

People are stupid.

"...I was a farmer..." Because that guarantees you're an expert? 

Sounds more like he was an indoctrinated idiot too dumb to try to learn something basic like mechanical advantage.

I respectfully have to disagree with you here. If I'm stuck and I have a choice between a farmer and a guy with a mechanical engineering degree, I'll take the farmer every time. IMO, experience trumps education and nobody has as much experience at being stuck as a farmer.

Edited by rdonarski
wording
  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/2/2026 at 3:08 PM, JimCost2014 said:

If what you are doing works, keep doing it:

 

4LO (Four-Wheel Drive Low) should only be used in extreme low-speed, high-torque situations such as deep mud, heavy snow, steep rock crawling, or extreme inclines/declines, and you must follow the correct engagement procedure to avoid drivetrain damage.

Intended Use Cases

  • Deep mud or snow where traction is extremely poor and you need maximum torque to get unstuck Trucks Only+1.

  • Rock crawling on steep, uneven terrain forum.fullsizechevy.com+1.

  • Extreme inclines or declines where you need to control speed and maintain traction solutionsphere.blog.

  • Heavy towing in low-traction conditions (e.g., deep sand, ice) carclubsusa.com.

The AI response here is contradicting itself... torque and traction are different, more torque does not mean more traction. Too much torque will break traction.

Posted (edited)

I'm not sure I agree with "extreme" low speed, high torque sentiment here with regards to the prescribed use of low range. How about...whenever it's needed?

 

A 2.72:1 transfer case and whatever differential gears these Silverados have (3.42's, maybe?) aren't producing "extremely" low crawl speeds. Or insanely high torque multiplication. Even with the 1st gear in these newer transmissions. But it does provide mechanical advantage and potentially better control at slower speeds. And with extra weight or towing, I think it adds mechanical sympathy for the truck as well.

 

Plus, traction control and the other assists generally turn off when you shift into low range. Those aren't needed here, they'll work against you if you need wheel spin. In high range you'll need to figure out how to turn off the various modes those assists provide. Depending on the vehicle, those things don't all automatically turn off or turn completely off.

 

While I agree that a farmer might have some great practical experience, a recommendation to "always" using one gear isn't very informed advice. If the farmer had said WHY and could explain the physics behind his prescriptive "always" I'd definitely listen. The way he's described here makes it sounds like he could either be uninformed or is telling everyone what worked for him, not necessarily that there could be a more advantageous way about things.

Edited by Atlas
  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, rdonarski said:

I respectfully have to disagree with you here. If I'm stuck and I have a choice between a farmer and a guy with a mechanical engineering degree, I'll take the farmer every time. IMO, experience trumps education and nobody has as much experience at being stuck as a farmer.

Using experience to justify bad advice is lazy and typical of someone incapable of articulating why their advice is prudent. 

 

This immediately sets off the BS alert and the advice that followed certainly qualified.

 

Asking an idiot for help getting out of dumb situations because he is an expert... at getting himself into dumb situations.

 

Unless I've been living in an alternate universe - the first thing everyone does when getting into a sticky situation is shift to a higher gear 🤨.

 

Of course not, the torque multiplication, mechanical advantage and finer control typically afforded by the lower gear is far better suited for this scenario.

 

There ARE scenarios where a higher gear MIGHT be appropriate determined more by the drivers ability to control EXCESSIVE wheel spin versus applying torque to the ground.

Posted
29 minutes ago, Atlas said:

If the farmer had said WHY and could explain the physics behind his prescriptive "always" I'd definitely listen. The way he's described here...

... I don't think he could.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...