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What type of sub box should I get?


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Posted

which box type do you prefer when it comes to subs? Sealed or ported? Bandpass is sloppy and ruled out.

 

I have a ported kicker solobaric 10 right now, but I think pretty soon, I'm going to step up (actually it's a step down but more of them) to two Comp VR 10"s powered by a kx600.2 or something of that sort. Was wondering if I should go with a ported box again or a sealed box.

 

I hate when I hear these guys roll by listening to some rap song that is constant bass, where you can't even hear it hit...

 

I listen to rock, and occasionally like to show off with a bit of Ludacris or Petey Pablo.

 

Suggestions?

Posted

I have two 10" Comp V/Rs in a sealed enclosure, and they hit very hard, and very clean.

 

I also have two 10" Fosgates in a bandpass in the 92, and they sound pretty d@mn good as well.

Posted

how about that cap you have under one of your amps? If it touches something, will it spark and set it on fire or do any damage if anything touches the top? I'm one of those people that might throw a shirt back there or something. I can do that cause I got an explorer :thumbs: so I guess your cap is in a good location.

 

Plus is there enough cooling behind the seat like that?

Posted

I guess if you touched a screwdriver accross them it would pop. But in mine it's underneath (and behind) the rear seat. So no danger there.

 

My 92 has the same cap under the drivers seat, bolted to the amp, and no problems there either.

 

Yeah, it's cool enough, as long as you keep a few inches of air around them. They havn't overheated yet. I have done several long-hauls with it cranked for hours on end in 100 degree heat, going 80....I would think that they would have overheated by now if they were going to.

Posted

cool man. I guess it's like a little battery then instead of a deadly piece of equipment. Look I'm whoring my own thread. haha :thumbs:

 

looks like I'm gettin a set of comp vrs and stepping up the amp power too.

Posted

I also wouldn't count out bandpass. For an SUV, they can sound pretty good. It kind of depends on your placement, the power your running, and whether or not the speaker was designed to go into a bandpass type box. Some just sound better sealed.

Posted

thanks for your help. I feels good to get all my q's answered in one night. :thumbs:

 

The reason I ruled out bandpass is comp vrs don't work good in it.

 

I'm guessing the comp vr's just sound better sealed.

Posted
cool man. I guess it's like a little battery then instead of a deadly piece of equipment. Look I'm whoring my own thread. haha :thumbs:

 

looks like I'm gettin a set of comp vrs and stepping up the amp power too.

Yeah, what it does is make a constant pull on the battery. That way when the bass hits, and the big pull comes down the line, the cap takes the hit, instead of the trucks electrical system. It made a HUGE difference in the Blazer when I put it in.

Posted

sorry I keep replying :thumbs:

 

but does the cap constantly stay on, or does it have to charge up at first?

 

also, does it stay charged for next time you ride somewhere, or does it discharge when you turn off your car?

 

Once again, thanks very much for the info.

 

and actually if you think it'd be easier, I could maybe holler at you on the AIM. That is unless you don't have the AIM.. I forgot to look.

Posted

I really don't do the chat thing....And I'm at work anyway, so no AIM.

 

The only time you need to charge the cap is when you first install it.

 

I seem to remember just holding the wires on the posts for a few seconds at a time to charge it before putting a load to it.

 

They said that if you didn't charge it before the first install it could explode the first time you turned it on. :thumbs: I have blown capacitors before (little ones, about the thickness of your pinky) and they really pop when they go. Goop everywhere, lots of smoke, etc. I couldn't imagine what one of these monsters would do.

 

But after that, it stays on constantly. I'm sure there is a slight loss when the truck isn't running for any length of time. If it takes a bit to charge when you start the truck, it's transparent to me. It's always ready to go as soon as I start it.

 

 

As for the number of replies.....Well.....So am I :thumbs:

 

That's what this board is for. :thumbs:

Posted

cool

 

yep glad it's here.

 

I was looking at a few explorer forums and this one guy layered his explorer with dynamat extreme. I seem to recall him using 189 sq ft of it. Is it just me or is that SUPER EXPENSIVE?

 

What suggestions would you have on dynamat extreme to deaden sound? Would the floor of the cargo area be the best or maybe along the sides of the walls. I know that asking you this is kinda like saying "My computer's broke. what's wrong with it?" being that it's a care you aren't too familiar with (i'm guessing).

 

But all your input is appreciated. :thumbs:

Posted

Oh I get the computer question from somebody, at least once per week.

 

Here is how that conversation usually goes.

 

Them: "What's wrong with my puter?"

 

Me: "He!! if I know!"

 

Them: "Well, you work on computers for a living?!"

 

Me: "Mainframes, not PCs."

 

Them: "What's the difference?"

 

Me: "Nothing, they are the same, I just don't like you anymore, so I'm not fixing it."

 

It's a wonder I have any friends left.

 

 

~Back on topic

 

I only put dynamat (Actually, I used Brown Bread....It's cheaper) on the back wall of the truck. If you look at my pics in the other post, you can see where I cut a TON of insulation out, so I needed something. My buddy did the same thing, (identical truck) cut out the insulation, and didn't put anything in it's place. You can hear the road noise pretty bad in his rig now.

 

That said, if I ever take the door panels off again, they will get the treatment. If I had a reason to take the carpet out, I would do the floorpan as well.

 

It really does make a pretty big difference. But pulling the whole interior out is a bit extreme for me....But I'm not a true audiophile, just an enthusiast.....To me, sound deadening material is something that's done "while your in there".....But that's just me, others will say otherwise.

Posted

so is brown bread thin too, and does it perform like dynamat would? Because that's alot cheaper and can get like 100 sq ft of that for what 36 sq ft of dynamat extreme would cost

 

also did you have to use a heat gun with that or just press it on?

Sand and prep or again just press on?

 

Geez I'm like a 7 year-old kid who just learned you can talk for hours just asking why and really start to piss people off too. :thumbs:

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