Jump to content

Tiedown Locations in truck bed for multiple bikes


Recommended Posts

Posted

Have the occasion to haul two harleys in the back of my truck and am wondering what others have done to add tie down locations. Adding square D-shackles, etc and where. Did you cut out the bed and put them in flush? Thanks

Posted

I would think that you could put two back there without adding any. I've done it with dirtbikes many times.

 

That said....I believe that 4WheelParts sold me the ones I added in my old Jeep, and they were made to fit the contours of the bed floor.

 

Look up a local fastener store, they should carry some tie downs that will easily bolt right in with little fuss.

Posted

Hauling 2, 600 lb+ bikes in the back of your truck will be hard to tie down no matter how many tie-downs you have.

 

Personally I wouldn't haul 2 bikes of that size in anything but an enclosed 8' wide trailer.

 

I think you'll have problems with the bars hitting eachother, and the sidecases and pipes hitting the wheel wells.

Posted

I have seen it done on many other trucks but only in passing. I never got a chance to check out the inside of their beds. Also, I am not looking to haul them for days but just for longer day trips. I'll take a look at some fastener stores.

Posted

I have experience in this area, but with 2 crotch rockets, bout 400 lbs. each. I strapped the front forks together on the inside and grabbed the outside handlebars and down to the hole in the top of the bed there, just behind the cab. Worked just fine. No issues.

 

Haven't ever tried tieing down a couple pigs :lol: , so can't say whether it is different or not. In any case, hopefully my info is helpful here.

Posted

Given my motorcycle hauling experience, I would guess not. Ideally, you would have tie downs in the bottom of the bed to strap the inside handlebar down to, while compressing the forks a bit.

 

Will let original submitter answer your question though.

Posted

Yeah, I'm looking for something down on the bottom of the bed - something like D-shackles. With Harley's you have to compress the forks a little and spread the ties out to the sides. As far as linking two bikes together - that would make me real nervous especially with the front wheels further out than sport bikes. I think ideally I would like to have the same shackles as what you see in actual motorcycle trailers that have the eye hook that pops up. Problem is I dont want to hack up the bed to make them flush even though I am installing a spray in liner that would seal cracks.

 

As far as loading them - Ramp Master makes great 3 piece ramps that are longer for higher trucks and lower bikes. I just have a longer one than many others.

 

Thanks for the replies -

Posted

hey, if you find something slick for this application, drop me a line, although i use the "tie the forks together" workaround, i am interested in something more robust. thanks.

Posted

2 comments:

 

1) Wow! My rockets would look really cool on there, all high and visible :jester:

2) If a strap broke loose, no more rocket, strap breaks with it in the bed, at least it doesnt go sliding down the highway. :lol:

Posted

Oh I wouldn't have one. For what they are asking, I could get a pretty nice flatbed that would do a much better job....Or a used enclosed trailer for that matter.

 

I was just throwing it out there as an option. Everybody has their poison, and maybe his is that rack. :jester:

 

 

:lol:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...