Jump to content

Thinking about getting a ~'85 3/4 ton


Recommended Posts

Posted

Lately I've been thinking that I'd like to do a truck once my LS1 '70 Corvette is done and I've had some resting time from the project. Anyone have any comments regarding what I should start with for a truck? I want something with a straight, no rust body and virtually no electronics to mess with. Electronics wise, I will add what's necessary so that I know that it'll be reliable. After putting an LS1 in a 34 year old car, I think that doing a pickup would be pretty easy (and cool).

 

Which years or models should I look for (or avoid)?

 

Thanks,

Matt

Posted

Anything from that body style (81-87) would be about the same, except that the rust resistance improved dramatically during that period. Since you're planning to drive it in Michigan you'll probably want to stick to '84 and later for the improved rust protection.

 

If you want to use the tranny that comes with the truck stick to 3/4 ton or heavier, they'll have TH-400 or M465 which will be up to the output of the 6.0L. I wouldn't trust the TH-700R4 or the Getrag overdrive 4 speed behind a 6.0L. (The TH-700R4 can definately be built to handle the power, but GM didn't build it that way.)

 

If you hadn't already put an LS1 in a '70 Vette I'd be telling you that parts of this project will get tedious . . . but you're better qualified than me to predict the headaches. :thumbs:

Posted

Do not get a 700R4 made between 81 and 83 as they were grenades. 84 thru 86 was much improved over first version and 87 on saw the last improvement of the 700R4. If you get a late model 700R4 they are quite strudy and will live well behind a smallblock if properly cooled. I have 170,000 on a 89 700R4 in a 4x4 burb that I have had since new and the tranny has been 100% trouble free so far and still works like new! Also I would shoot for a 87, just to have the last year they were built like that and also get TBI as well.

Posted

Mid-80s chevys are a great choice. Here's a couple of things to keep in mind when your looking for one. 3/4 tons used an 8-lug 10-bolt in the front and some came with a semi-floating 14-bolt in the back. If you can find a 1-ton, you'll get a Dana 60 front and full floating 14 rear. If you get an 85 3/4 ton or 1 ton, you won't need to run cats.

 

If I were to get one, I would definately look for for an 87 1-ton. That year would give you all the best parts, including TBI perviously mentioned.

Posted
I'm sure he would use a 4l80-e.

I have them both and I much prefer the shifting on my 700R4 over my 4L80E as it is far more predictable and seems to adapt better to different speed and load demands than the 80 does.

Posted
I'm sure he would use a 4l80-e.

I have them both and I much prefer the shifting on my 700R4 over my 4L80E as it is far more predictable and seems to adapt better to different speed and load demands than the 80 does.

Um..... I don't know about you but nothing is more predictable than a computer.

Posted
I'm sure he would use a 4l80-e.

I have them both and I much prefer the shifting on my 700R4 over my 4L80E as it is far more predictable and seems to adapt better to different speed and load demands than the 80 does.

Um..... I don't know about you but nothing is more predictable than a computer.

Or unpredictable becuase of its firmware and programing. My 4L80E is smooth and strong but nowhere near as predicable on shifts as my 700R4 is.

Posted
If you hadn't already put an LS1 in a '70 Vette I'd be telling you that parts of this project will get tedious . . . but you're better qualified than me to predict the headaches. :thumbs:

It's not really all that tough. It's a matter of interface management. When you make the interfaces as simple as possible, it's not that though. Driveshafts are easy to make, so you can use any tranny to drive the rear end (I'm not sure about the transfer case though. I think that I'd most likely use the one from the 6.0 donor truck). Wiring can be purchased so that you only have to hook up gagues, power, ignition, electric fans, and a fuel pump. Motor mounts are just a matter or making something out of steel. There are lots of little things that get to be a PITA but it's really pretty fun.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Maybe I'll start keeping an eye out for an '87 1-ton with a nice body.

 

The other night I thought about it and was wondering how nice a Suburban would be with the 6.0 ?!??! Maybe a 2wd with a T56 6-speed? That would be cool!!! :D:cheers:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...