Jump to content

MOBILE 1


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 6.0 L and have ran MOBILE 1 since the first oil change. Will this effect my rings from seetting? I was told it could. I now have 30,000 mls on it and it now just went thrue 3 qrts in 3400 mls. The 1st 2 qrts in the 1st week and ahalf.

Posted

It is advisable to but 5 to 10,000 on truck before you switch to properly seat engine parts. Also try 10w30 instead of 5w30 in the engine too! I have used mobile one for 15 years+ and I have never regularly used 5w30 except in the winter when I lived in Montana for a while and it could see 50 below..

Posted

Running Mobil 1 from day 1 will have no adverse effects on the engine. I'm a longtime user of Mobil 1. I use 5W30 (recommended weight) in all of my vehicles. It is factory fill on 'vettes, Porsche, Lexus, and BMW. If there are issues with rings seating, I'm sure that it wouldn't be factory fill in these vehicles.

 

Did the oil consumption just start? How much oil did it use before? Are there any telltale signs of leaks on the engine?

Posted
Running Mobil 1 from day 1 will have no adverse effects on the engine. I'm a longtime user of Mobil 1. I use 5W30 (recommended weight) in all of my vehicles. It is factory fill on 'vettes, Porsche, Lexus, and BMW. If there are issues with rings seating, I'm sure that it wouldn't be factory fill in these vehicles.

 

Did the oil consumption just start? How much oil did it use before? Are there any telltale signs of leaks on the engine?

But I think you will find that they run those engines in a bit more and may in fact even prep cylinder differently. It is widely known that break ins on synthetic oil can lead to inproper ring seating in some cases and higher oil consumption. .

Posted

I switched my 02 k2500 6.0 at 1200 miles, always used 5w30, never had any oil consumption up to 25k when I sold it and never had any engine tick, piston slap etc...Would not use anything else. I usually baby them for the 1st couple hunder miles, stomp the hell out of em to about a 1k and switch to mobil one as soon I can after that....Never had any problem!

 

Doug

Posted

It's at the dealer right now! We will see what they say. I'v always noticed that it was down 1 qrt at 3400 mls. that's when I allways change the oil. But didn't think a big deal since I owned a ford before. Thats just the way it was! :thumbs:

Posted

I consider 5w30 too light for a truck or SUV unless it is very cold. I have a 89 burb that I have used Mobile on in since about 6000 miles. It has 170,000 now and it might use 1/2 quart between changes (4 to 5000 miles) which is nothing in my book. It is still quiet as a church mouse with same oil pressure and not the slightest tick too. We still use vehical for cross country trips.

Posted

I too believe 5-30 is too light unless you live with the polar bears! I use 10-30 M1 year round and have in both my trucks since the first oil change at 3000 miles. I live in New England and we get some 0 degree days once in a while and had no problems with the 10-30, instant oil pressure and no knocks, cold or hot. I believe you can change to synthetic after 500 miles, the rings are all seated by then.

 

Butch 02 Sierra Denali

Posted

Am I missing something here. 5w-30 or 10w-30 for all intents and puposes, in the summer are the same weight. The 'w' stands for winter or cold weight rating. If I recall (CRS), cold is at 0deg F. The number is a viscosity rating at 72deg F. So a 5w-XX oil will have the same viscosity at 0deg as 5 weight unmodified dino oil.

 

The only important number in the summer is the larger number. The temp in summer never gets cold enough to require the oil to act at its winter weight. Heck, down here our winter dosn't make the oil act at its winter rating.

Posted

Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Ferrari, Lambo, Jaguar, and the Corvette all come with synthetic oil already running through their veins. Synthetic oil from the get-go should be fine in a gas-operated engine.

 

If Mercedes and Porsche approve then I can't argue.

 

Here's a tidbit of info for you: GM recommends 5-30 for their engines that are already installed but they recommend 10-30 for crate engines. :thumbs: Hmmm.

Posted
Am I missing something here. 5w-30 or 10w-30 for all intents and puposes, in the summer are the same weight. The 'w' stands for winter or cold weight rating. If I recall (CRS), cold is at 0deg F. The number is a viscosity rating at 72deg F. So a 5w-XX oil will have the same viscosity at 0deg as 5 weight unmodified dino oil.

 

The only important number in the summer is the larger number. The temp in summer never gets cold enough to require the oil to act at its winter weight. Heck, down here our winter dosn't make the oil act at its winter rating.

You hit it right on the head. With Mobil 1, if you really want to get technical about it, 10W-30 and 5W-30 has very little difference as far as the flash point (5 degrees), but I would rather have the extra protection gained from 5W-30 being able to flow slightly better. The added bonus is a slight increase in fuel mileage from 5W-30.

 

Unless things have changed drastically in the way the engines are built and tested, the engines from the 'vettes and some of the truck engines are assembled in the St Catherines, ON plant. True they are on 2 separate lines, but the test routines are the same. No special cylinder prep, no extra run in.

Posted
Am I missing something here. 5w-30 or 10w-30 for all intents and puposes, in the summer are the same weight. The 'w' stands for winter or cold weight rating. If I recall (CRS), cold is at 0deg F. The number is a viscosity rating at 72deg F.  So a 5w-XX oil will have the same viscosity at 0deg as 5 weight unmodified dino oil.

 

The only important number in the summer is the larger number. The temp in summer never gets cold enough to require the oil to act at its winter weight. Heck, down here our winter dosn't make the oil act at its winter rating.

You hit it right on the head. With Mobil 1, if you really want to get technical about it, 10W-30 and 5W-30 has very little difference as far as the flash point (5 degrees), but I would rather have the extra protection gained from 5W-30 being able to flow slightly better. The added bonus is a slight increase in fuel mileage from 5W-30.

 

Unless things have changed drastically in the way the engines are built and tested, the engines from the 'vettes and some of the truck engines are assembled in the St Catherines, ON plant. True they are on 2 separate lines, but the test routines are the same. No special cylinder prep, no extra run in.

THis is not entirely true because conventional 5w30 stops flowing around 25 below or so while Mobile 1 10w30 flows down to minus 60 or so. 5w30 averages a lighter viscosity than 10w30 amd all the theory say it does not matter, it does in reality. Mibile 1 did not even have a 5w30 oil for many years yet advertised their 10w30 still flowing at temps unheard of for conventional oils.

Posted

I dunno guys....I see AMG powered 5.5 liter supercharged monsters that start out their lives on 0w40 euro formula mobil 1 and dont get their oil changed for the 1st time until about 10,000 miles. Mercedes has been on the FSS (flexible service) since 98 and we see cars daily with 150-200 k on them that run fine, dont leak and use little to no oil between services of 10-13k.

 

Long story short....The general says use 5w30....I use 5w30. I do however refuse to accept the gm oil life system and will continue to change my oil over 3k.

 

.02

 

Doug

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 968 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...