Jump to content

What do u guys think about this...


Recommended Posts

Posted

well, been thinkin, maybe after i finish the burban's s/c problems, i may decide to buy a lt-1 motor, built it up and swap it in to the burban. i mean, fully built bottom end, blower cam, forged internals, the full works... prolly about a max of 4g's into the swap. ontop of that, put the ati blower on it...

 

OR...

 

buy a 86' Buick Regal T-type, has a few mods on it, new chips, thats all i know for now. guy wants 5g's for it. it dynoed @ 280 rwhp & 400 rwtq. i think my buddy said that, that car does 12's in the 1/4 mi.

 

so what do u guys think? i'll gte more info on the car. the LT-1 i can get alone just for 1 g.

Aj

Posted

280 rwhp doesn't equate to 12s. More like low-mid 14s. Quarter-mile has much to do with hp.

 

I'd definatly go crate LT1/LS1. How about something different like LT4?

Posted
280 rwhp doesn't equate to 12s. More like low-mid 14s. Quarter-mile has much to do with hp.

Um, not true. Its not how much horsepower you have, but how you use it. A close friend of mine ran 11.0's with only 338 rwhp. But he has tons of suspension work done to the car to make it run like crazy.

Posted

I'd go with the 3.8. You can very easily make them have 600 hp and they get extremely good gas mileage. Not too many people will like the v6 idea, however. I do not believe anybody that actually owned a grand national would doubt the engine in a surburban. My grand prix gtp made 242 fwhp and ran 13.7 in the 1/4.

Posted

just to clarify, im not takin the 3.8 motor from the GN T-type, im buying the whole car!!!...LOL that or i might buy the Lt-1 since my buddy is sellin it for $1000.

 

i may just not buy anything, save up all my cash and build the sh!t outta the burban... new tranny, new rear diff...

 

this is just a thought, i may or may not do this, but i hear that the Regals are badass..and rare!

Aj

Posted

The GN/GNX's are quite capable of 12 second 1/4's with a few bolt ons without nitrous. I had an 87 GN with a ATI Pit Bull chip (22 lbs boost!) bigger injectors, ram air/K&N and a larger intercooler. It would run 12.8/12.9's all day long. Very fun car! I'd go for it!

 

Butch 02 Sierra Denali

Posted
Um, not true. Its not how much horsepower you have, but how you use it. A close friend of mine ran 11.0's with only 338 rwhp. But he has tons of suspension work done to the car to make it run like crazy.

Depending on driveline..338 hp is close to 400 clutch hp. That is WAY more than the power described in the car he was talking about. Suspension does have plenty to do with quarter mile time, but without power it doesn't matter. Lets use Corvette ZR-1 for example.

 

ZR-1s produce roughly 332 RWHP. A 1990 model is the quickest year for these cars due to lighter weight. These cars run 12.3 or so from the factory. With this info it seems highly unlikely that a like a GNX that has an infereior drivetrain and suspension (even with a few mods possibly) to the ZR-1, and producing 50 or so LESS ponies would run a similar ET.

 

I did a little research on the GNX. I checked various websites that clamied this:

0-60: 4.7 sec

1/4 mile: 13.4 @ 103.4 MPH

These times are definatly beliveable due to turbocharging.

 

The GN/GNX's are quite capable of 12 second 1/4's with a few bolt ons without nitrous. I had an 87 GN with a ATI Pit Bull chip (22 lbs boost!) bigger injectors, ram air/K&N and a larger intercooler. It would run 12.8/12.9's all day long. Very fun car! I'd go for it!

 

The mods talked about in this post are major jobs. They would result in more than 280 RWHP. Not to mention more boost (22 up from 18).

 

If someone can explain how this particular car would ZR-1 times with less power, I'd definatly be interested.

 

Sorry for the ZR-1 examples, just happens to be a car I'm very familiar with.

Posted

If you decide to run an LT1, you'll need the LT1 corvette accessories brackets and corvette accessories (A/C, P/S, alternator, etc..). You'll still have to notch the frame rail to get everything to fit, but it will work. Street & Performance has more info on that if your interested. I researched doing that to my Tahoe a few years back, but just decided to leave my lower end stock and throw on heads and a lumpier cam.

Posted

OUMike, great summary!

 

American Muscle man, i know, theres a lot of work into it, i could even get a newer motor like others have suggested... more potential in a "newer engine" than an ol' LT-1.... either way, the T-Type is tempting me, but i don't have the time for it...too many d**n problems on the burban, s/c tuning, leaks, etc...

 

but, i'll keep my options open!

Aj

Posted

OUMike, You do have to remember that the GN/GNX/T-type is alot heavier than the Vette. Weight also takes into effect. So you could have a 600 RWHP car that weighs 3700 lbs, and it could only run low 11's not having the proper suspension setup.

 

But you can take the same car, install the correct suspension setup and the car will run 9's (with a good driver)

 

BUt I do see your point.

Posted
You do have to remember that the GN/GNX/T-type is alot heavier than the Vette

 

Wouldn't it have to be lighter??

According to a few sources...

1987 GNX - 3545 lbs

1990 ZR-1 - 3505 lbs

 

Is this enough to make a difference?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,737
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Christopher Miller
    Newest Member
    Christopher Miller
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,529 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Without knowing how bad your banging is, one suggestion is the intermediate steering shaft on the steering wheel. These used to be a problem on 800 and earlier series. The feeling/sound was sometimes described as "clunking" and was felt in the wheel. Also there is a plastic piece in the lower column that is referred to as a bearing. Not your traditional looking bearing though. Your ball joints, bushings and tie rods or steering rack (if equipped) are the main point of issues. You never mention total unit miles, only that you've put 60k on it.   You can search the site for help on the ISS description. Plenty of these have been replaced   https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3Agm-trucks.com+intermediate+steering+shaft&ia=web
    • Yes I have is set with the 1mm disk (Minumim Tension), for spring spacing and I raised my truck in the rear 1.5". You can go 2mm  and I think 3mm if you need.Minimum. We are on our way to TN from GA.. My wife is driving and stated she cannot believe  and   stated she can not belive the difference.
    • Most 1 ton trucks come with the factory overload spring, which need to be removed for installation of RoadActive Suspension. Removing the overload allows proper fitment and ensures the system works as intended. The RAS® Mega-Duty kit will reduce squat and provide significant improvement vs the factory overload spring.
    • I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...