Jump to content

Seafoam vs. Techroline


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have been reading a lot on here about seafoam and techroline being used to clean the fuel injector rails etc. My truck has 67K miles on it and runs smoothly, but I was wondering if you all would suggest using either of these products as preventative maintenance? My Haynes manual doesn't say anything about cleaning the fuel rails or anything as regular maintenance.

 

If I should use one, which do you all recommend? Some people seem to think the seafoam is too tough on our engines. Is the techroline any safer? Also, since I've never done this and I've had my truck for almost 4 years and 67K miles, will using one of these products lead to problems (i.e., leaks, etc.)

 

I'm interested to hear which of these you all think is better. Thanks! Jon

 

Oh yeah -- if you think this should be done as regular maintenance, how often?

Posted

Hell, all I have ever used is SeaFoam. The top-end cleaner and DeepCreep sprayed into the intake. Works pretty well too. Only thing I didnt do was put a little SeaFoam into my oil. Didnt like that Idea. I usually use the Foam every 3 oil changes or so. Ive seen some intake runners of a 5.3 before and after 3 cans of SeaFoam and man did it clean them up good!

Posted

I've got a can of Seafoam ready to go, never used it before, but if done properly, I don't forsee any problems. In the past I've used GM Top End cleaner, on a carburated 305, with great results, (tore the engine down shortly after and the intake runners and combustion chambers looked great), and I've performed BG Induction Sevices, (a pressurized three can process that involves a fogger nozzle into the throttle body for two of the cans and 1 can into a full tank of fuel), also with great results. I've never used the Techron, but I've heard good things.

 

If you use these products the right way, you shouldn't experience any problems. The vehicle should have a good tune-up and and be otherwise mechanically up to date before performing any of these services which will temporarily richen your fuel mixture. It is possible to see a check engine lt, or even a blinking check engine lt (which denotes that the ecm is picking up a large enough percent missfire to cause catalytic converter damage), but this isn't prolonged usage. I wouldn't go pumping too many cans through at once though, or you will see a problem.

 

Also, on an older vehicle that hasn't been properly maintained there could be issues just from the excess carbon alone. If you follow a good maintenance schedule you shouldn't see any problems.

Posted

Sea Foam worked great on my Jetta diesel. Of course it is an older model. If you do use it just do it at the same time that your getting ready to change your oil. It does a great job of cleaning and gets past the rings and can neutralize the oil if not changed out. I spoke to Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis and he is familiar with Sea Foam and just said it works well but you just need to remember not to let the oil go to long after you run it.

Posted

no need to at all, it's strictly a fuel system cleaner, it's not going to get the oil contaminated like seafoam could possibly do.

Posted

The one thing I guess I don't understand is why no one really talks about good ole GM Top Engine Cleaner.... its more or less the same stuff as Sea Foam, only its certified safe by the stealer, and is only about 8 bucks a can....

 

I'm gonna use it before my next oil change, right after the idiot light comes on saying to change the oil

Posted

I have used Techron in my truck for 185,000miles and I have not ever had any fuel related problems at all.It is great stuff.It is a Sythetic fuel system cleaner and it works.My Father and I own a Chevron gas station.We just got an email on Friday from Chevron that stated GM,Lexus which is of course Toyota,and Mercedes rated Chevrons gas with the Techron additive is the best for keeping the fuel system and injectors clean and free from deposites.

I can take a picture of this letter and post it if it is needed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...