Jump to content

F-1 transmissions


R Dogg 56

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've often wondered how they work. Is there an actual clutch pedal that you use, or is it "somewhat" of an automatic, the "somewhat" part obviously being you change the gears manually with steering column-mounted paddles, but you don't have to work a clutch pedal.

 

And, are they the same thing that the F1 race care use? I necer see them change gears or reach for the gear shift, so they must be using auto trans. or these F1 transmissons.... right?

Posted

This is the way they described it to Gordon when he drove Montoya's car last year. You still have a clutch which is used for starting from a dead stop (Minus when they start a race. They use launch control). Up shifts are done automatically without the clutch. Downshifts are done with the paddle.

 

They way they made it sound, they never use the clutch for shifting.

Posted

Basically, those trannys are just a manual tranny with electronics to control the clutch actuation and gear shifts. In race cars, they use what is called a crash box. This is a manual tranny without syncronizers. Once you get rolling, you don't use a clutch anymore anyways. In fact, if you match the speeds right on any manual, you don't have to use the clutch to shift.

Posted
You still have a clutch which is used for starting from a dead stop (Minus when they start a race. They use launch control). Up shifts are done automatically without the clutch. Downshifts are done with the paddle.

They way they made it sound, they never use the clutch for shifting.

 

Basically, those trannys are just a manual tranny with electronics to control the clutch actuation and gear shifts. In race cars, they use what is called a crash box. This is a manual tranny without syncronizers. Once you get rolling, you don't use a clutch anymore anyways. In fact, if you match the speeds right on any manual, you don't have to use the clutch to shift.

 

Hmmm, so there is a "one time" depress of the clutch pedal in these cars that you use to get out of a dead stop, and everything else is left to computers. Very interesting.

 

Reason behind my asking is because I know that Ferrari and BMW option these transmissions in their model line, and I was wondering if they are the same type/style that is used in their race cars (SCCA, LeMans 12- and 24-hour, F1, etc.).

 

Thanks for clearing this up for me! :D

 

In fact, if you match the speeds right on any manual, you don't have to use the clutch to shift.

 

This is true. The tachometer can be your lifeline in these cases. Too low revs, and you kill it. Too high, and the gearbox goes boom.

Posted

BMW's are closer to a regular auto tranny. The Ferrari system is very similar to the system used for the F1 racer. In fact, the Challenge Stradale, a race version of the 360 has the same tranny as the standard 360, so technically, yes. Ferrari does use the same tranny for race cars and for street cars. In the latest versions of these race vehicles, there is no clutch. Everything is computer controlled. Normally the difference between the race and the street versions are synchronizers. Race ones don't have it, street version does.

 

In Europe, they are more accustomed to shifting themselves for a few reasons. 1. manual trannys weigh less than the auto boxes. 2. better fuel econ. 3. European cars tend to be smaller in size so space is limited. In the previous company I worked for, I was the lead engineer on the project for the electronic clutch system. The electronic clutch was to come up with an "automatic" tranny that weighs less, is more efficient, and shifts smoothly. This is the result. Of course, there have been many improvements made to make it better. These have also been adapted to many of the smaller vehicles.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

F1 trannys do not opperate electronically. They operate hydrolically. They DO use a clucth that is operated by fluids. They all (BMW, Ferrari, Porsche) prety much operate the same way. However the thing about race ones not having syncronizers, this is true.

 

On a street car the clutch engauges and the gear switches in a matter of miliseconds. These transmissions are much much more effieicent.

Posted

Actually, if you want to get technical about it, the tranny is controlled by electronics. The hydraulics just move the mechanical parts. If electric actuators can be made stronger and more compact, the hydralulics would not be there. I can also tell you that much development has been done to remove the clutch from the vehicle and combine the functions within the differential. Geez, just because I left out the word pedal, you go picking it apart. :cool: Thanks. :mad:

Posted

The one shown on how stuff works is the standard crash box. Sequential boxes have been around for quite a while. They can be either pneumatic or hydraulic.

 

The F1 tranny used by Ferrari, I know for a fact, is hydraulic. Ferrari is the only ones currently using similar trannys for the race cars and street cars. BMW began to use a very similar tranny for the Touring Car series M3. The street BMW (and Porsche for that matter) uses a true auto tranny which have no clutch.

 

I've had the privelege of driving the road going Ferraris with the F1 tranny. I have driven the F355 when it first came out and the 360 Modena. The system shifts great if you are driving agressively, but if putting around in traffic, the system tends to hunt around (engaging and disengaging the clutch). In fact, on some of these cars the clutches wear out prematurely because of this problem. And on many of these cars, you can smell clutch around the car after it has been in traffic for a while. The Enzo is suppose to have the latest variant of this tranny, which is suppose to be better. I have yet to test one of these out. :cool:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...