Jump to content

Anyone ever remove the body moldings?

Matt99Z71

Recommended Posts

Blue-2001-Z71 Enthusiast

Blue-2001-Z71

Posted
Posted

Don't have a pic yet but I love they way mine looks without those ugly hunks of black rubber taped to the sides :chevy: . Here's the catch; I uncovered a previous paint touch up on the rocker panel so now there's a 12" line of overspray and a small dednt I now have to get fixed ($400-$700 I'm being told) :thumbs: . Still looks better, though! The tape is a pain in the pooper to get off, I spent about half the day doing this. :jester:

Guest chevydeerhunter

Guest chevydeerhunter

Posted
Posted
Don't have a pic yet but I love they way mine looks without those ugly hunks of black rubber taped to the sides :jester: .  Here's the catch; I uncovered a previous paint touch up on the rocker panel so now there's a 12" line of overspray and a small dednt I now have to get fixed ($400-$700 I'm being told) :chevy: .  Still looks better, though!  The tape is a pain in the pooper to get off, I spent about half the day doing this.  :wtf:

 

 

 

 

 

3M company makes a rubber wheel that can be mounted to a power drill or die grinder that's made specifically for removing residue like that without damaging the paint. I removed the dumb looking tailgate extension from my '03 and that wheel came in mighty handy. :thumbs:

Matt99Z71 Enthusiast

Matt99Z71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Don't have a pic yet but I love they way mine looks without those ugly hunks of black rubber taped to the sides :jester: .  Here's the catch; I uncovered a previous paint touch up on the rocker panel so now there's a 12" line of overspray and a small dednt I now have to get fixed ($400-$700 I'm being told) :lurk: .  Still looks better, though!  The tape is a pain in the pooper to get off, I spent about half the day doing this.  :flag:

 

 

 

 

Hah, thats exactly why I never removed them on my T/A. My truck looks comepletly factory though. I'd like to see some pictures first though.

Matt99Z71 Enthusiast

Matt99Z71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeaaaa....there we go, now you just need some red tahoe doorhandles and maybe a chrome stepbar. Looks pretty d**n clean...gonna have to study my truck now. Did you just use a hairdryer, industrial heat gun, or just let it sit in the sun?

facn8me Senior Enthusiast

facn8me

Posted
Posted

I did it at the end of a hot day. mine went real easy. gettin the rest of the goop off was a pain. my thumb worked best, then some adhesive remover. And i think i want some black wheels and black nerfs.

Tydriver New Member

Tydriver

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have any pics of a 99-02 Truck with moldings removed ?

 

The '03+ looks pimp for sure.. Just wanna see a 99-02 Truck in the buff :lurk:

XTOAK Enthusiast

XTOAK

Posted
Posted

I'm one of the fellas whose truck suffers from the huge dimples under the body side moulding...

 

My dealer ordered replacements (under warranty) and called yesterday to tell me that he could replace them on Wednesday but that they'd need it 8 hours to do the job. I laughed as he said the longest part was removing the old ones. Well, I asked if I could remove them to speed up the process and he said it was at my risk and any damage would be on my dime. I agreed.

 

Last night, it took me less than 20 minutes to remove both sides. Mine are the ones that are painted to match the truck paint color. I used my Makita heat gun on a setting of 5 and high fan, and waved it back and forth across the moulding. I started from the back and worked forward. I was doing this outside where the air temp was approximately 50 degrees. I heated up the first six inches so that I could use my fingers to pry it off a little so as to get a good hand hold on the moulding. Kept moving forward until it was off and then started on the front door. I did this for all four doors...no residue left on the paint except for some clear, silicone type glue material. I used Goof Off (a citrus based cleaner) to remove it and all is like new.

 

I saved the old moulding as the dealer wanted it but was surprised to find the dimples are caused by a bar code type label that specifies the type of trim.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Acceptably cheap tires?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • rjgvt
      Is your l8t engine bay super dusty?

      By rjgvt · Posted

      I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Acceptably cheap tires?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • Atlas
      Acceptably cheap tires?

      By Atlas · Posted

      4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • JohnRoy
      2020 Sierra 2500 windows rolling down

      By JohnRoy · Posted

      2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...