Jump to content

stepside


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just curious what you are running your 285's at.

 

For about 2 wks now the front end has been sloppy.  I was running 50 all around.  I added 2psi up front and am running 52 as of today boy what a change.  Ride and handling got much better

Posted

35 psi?

 

Holy crap.

 

Arent your tires bowing out any at the bottom?

 

I like the harder ride with the extra air

Posted

52psi?? I've never heard of any truck running that high!

I do the normal 35psi, and everything seems fine to me.

Do you guys think that running that higher pressure is 1. safe, 2. effecting the center tred wear, 3 giving you better MPG?

Posted

mervz these are 285 size tires.  The max PSI is 65.  I am running 52 up front which is 80% of the max and 50 psi in the rear which is 77%.

 

Tread is wearing normal much better than the 35psi i ran in my fstone (middle tread bald and no the pressure wasnt to high)

 

To answer your questions

 

1. safe?  Well i have 11K on them with no problems.  At first the first 1-2K i ran 54-55 psi in em.

 

2. effecting the center tred wear? Nope no tread wearing problems at all

 

3 giving you better MPG? Dont know dont care

Posted

Quote from RyanbabZ71, posted on Sep. 23 2001,1:49

mervz these are 285 size tires.  The max PSI is 65.  I am running 52 up front which is 80% of the max and 50 psi in the rear which is 77%.

 

Tread is wearing normal much better than the 35psi i ran in my fstone (middle tread bald and no the pressure wasnt to high)

 

To answer your questions

 

1. safe?  Well i have 11K on them with no problems.  At first the first 1-2K i ran 54-55 psi in em.

 

2. effecting the center tred wear? Nope no tread wearing problems at all

 

3 giving you better MPG? Dont know dont care

 

 

 

 

 

Hmm, interesting! Well, i learn more everyday!

Thanks for the info(off to check my tires and see what they are rated for!) hehehe :(

Posted

Have any of you guys run your trucks across a scale and used this to figure out the actual air pressure you should be running?  You need to get both the front and rear axle weights.  Just curious....

 

The tires I have on my truck are rated at 80psi max, and I dont' even run 50psi in them.  I run at 45psi in the front and 40 psi in the rear.  Of course I will air them up when I get a load in the back.  btw, these tires don't even bow out under the weight of my truck when they have about 30psi in them.  LOL

Posted

Excellent question and nobody has the same answer and the tire manufacturers are all gun shy now.  I remember a great article in a 4 wheel magazine.  Get a piece of chalk, and draw a line across all your tires.  Drive back and forth in a straight line and look at the wear.  If it is wear on the sides, add pressure. In the center, take some out.  I think it is the only way to tell.  Running over 50 p.s.i. in an unladen truck is probably way too much.  If you go off roading, that's different.  At least you guys bought BFG's.  Those crappy Badyears have left me stranded in the Mojave desert.  Good if you don't off road, maybe for the baby sitter's civic.

Posted

Well I added 52 front and 50 rear. The ride is a little harsh. I think I am going to drop down to 50 front and 45 rear. I don't have an ext cab so I am going to try some different pressures until I find what I like. I like the chalk idea and I am going to give it a try.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 524 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...