Jump to content

Torsion bar lift

01_silverado

Recommended Posts

bob1robert Enthusiast

bob1robert

Posted
Posted
Just wondering if anyone knows off hand what socket size I need to do this?

Does it turn easily or will I need a long bar for leverage?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I did mine with a standerd 3/8" ratchet and 18mm deep socket. It will turn a little hard but it is easiest with the truck jacked up by the frame. :cheers:

01_silverado Enthusiast

01_silverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just wondering if anyone knows off hand what socket size I need to do this?

Does it turn easily or will I need a long bar for leverage?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I did mine with a standerd 3/8" ratchet and 18mm deep socket. It will turn a little hard but it is easiest with the truck jacked up by the frame. :cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks You

motocross250f New Member

motocross250f

Posted
Posted

Anybody know how high you can raise the torsion bars before it hurts anything like tie rods? Or can you raise it to the max and not have it hurt anything. I have mine raised 1" and it seems fine, but would like to raise it higher. Or should i raise it higher and then just go get it realigned?

asilverblazer Senior Enthusiast

asilverblazer

Posted
Posted

Its mostly personal opinion some will say no lift is acceptable others are running 2"+ My opinion 1" - 1 1/2" should be fine without overly exaggerated wear rates.

Z71EMS Enthusiast

Z71EMS

Posted
Posted

It really degraded the ride when I messed with mine...

and for some reason now, to level the truck back out I had to unscreww one and screw in the other.. weird! :thumbs:

ronshearin New Member

ronshearin

Posted
Posted

Is it normal for the bumpstops to hit the lower a-frame just sitting there?

I just replaced my drivers side (totally gone)-the passenger side looked pretty good but I replaced it too.

 

I'm just wondering if the bars have sagged (99 Tahoe) and I need to crank them up to clear the stops.

Thanks

gixxer Enthusiast

gixxer

Posted
Posted

sounds like you had yours lowered?? Im about to install the belltech kit to regain suspension travel . Mine has been sitting on the bump stops forever!!!! :thumbs:

macifre Enthusiast

macifre

Posted
Posted

How do you tell if the bars need replacing? How or why do they wear out? What's gonna happen if I do not change them..? How much do they run for? (2000 Z71 w 70k)

 

Just wondering... I don't have a clue about that and the mechanic told me that I should be thinking of replacing them....

 

 

Thanks for your help guys, awesome forum...!! :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

Manuel

 

2000 Chevy Z71 Ex-Cab

2003 Chevy 2500HD DMax

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • carkhz316
      2006 Silverado HVAC sensor location in dashboard

      By carkhz316 · Posted

      Oh yes, someone is going to be certainly hitting up GM service/ support for a 20 year old truck.
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...