Jump to content

04 Sierra Z71 Lift

ral301

Recommended Posts

ral301 Enthusiast

ral301

Posted
Posted

I would like to hear from you pro's on the best lift for my truck. I want to lift it and add bigger tires but I dont want to loose the ride that it has now if poss. I heard to go with susp lifts but dont know what to buy or the price range they should be in. I dont mind spending some money on it but I want to buy the good stuff. There is only 1 4x4 shop here and they appear to be very high. any sugg's????

potz1999 Enthusiast

potz1999

Posted
Posted

If you want to keep your factory ride, check out a knuckle lift from Superlift or Procomp. These basically space the wheels and suspension down, without stiffening to springs.

 

They run for about $1400 and a moderately experienced person can install it in a weekend. Order some pizzas and invite some buddies to help to save cash on the installation.

cokedrvrbjw Enthusiast

cokedrvrbjw

Posted
Posted
If you want to keep your factory ride, check out a knuckle lift from Superlift  or Procomp.  These basically space the wheels and suspension down, without stiffening to springs.

 

They run for about $1400 and a moderately experienced person can install it in a weekend.  Order some pizzas and invite some buddies to help to save cash on the installation.

 

 

 

Or do a body lift for $400

silveradodude Enthusiast

silveradodude

Posted
Posted

I just put the PRO COMP 5" spindle lift on my 04 Z71. They sell it for $1375 but I got it on sale and the best part is that it comes W the shocks (the mx6).

Go here for the cheapest price on the net http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp I have done alot of buisness with them and never had a problem.

The truck rides like a Caddilac and you dont crank the t bars. :cheers::confused:

 

 

 

 

check out my gallery

My Webpage

ral301 Enthusiast

ral301

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yo silverado, your rides looks great. did you install yourself??? if so how long did it take and did you have to make any mods??

silveradodude Enthusiast

silveradodude

Posted
Posted

RAL

 

Thanks. Yeah I did the lift with a freind of mine. Took about 18 hours. If we did it again we could do it in 10.You do have to cut 1 brabket off frame and weld a plate in place. You also have to cut the mount off the differential but it really is not a big deal.

potz1999 Enthusiast

potz1999

Posted
Posted
I just put the PRO COMP 5" spindle    lift on my 04 Z71. They sell it for $1375 but I got it on sale and the best part is that it comes W the shocks (the mx6).

Go here for the cheapest price on the net http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp  I have done alot of buisness with them and never had a problem.

The truck rides like a Caddilac and you dont crank the t bars. :sigh:  :mad:

 

 

 

 

check out my gallery

My Webpage

 

 

 

 

 

Really...never a problem with 4Wheel Part? Admittedly, they have a great selection and awesome prices (which is why I keep going back), but I always have problems with them. :thumbs: Last order: shipped the wrong part, said they would ship the right one, part was on backorder and didn't bother to tell me while my truck is sitting on the rack. Maybe I should have you order from there for me so I can get a piece of your good luck!

OLERED04 Enthusiast

OLERED04

Posted
Posted

silveradodude how tall is your truck overall? I want to do the same lift but I want to Make sure it will still fit in the garage. :thumbs:

LAWNMAN Enthusiast

LAWNMAN

Posted
Posted

RAL301, I have a RCD 6' lift with 35's. Its a little on the high side but its also one of the best you can buy. Great lift with Bilstein shocks. Great looking truck silveradodude !! :chevy:

 

 

761985_4_full.jpg

silveradodude Enthusiast

silveradodude

Posted
Posted

LAWNMAN

Thats 1 Bada$$ looking truck. I almost went with the RCD but at the last minute went to pro comp 5" because the wife was afraid she would not be able to get in w/ the 6" w/35's

ral301 Enthusiast

ral301

Posted
  • Author
Posted

that is one nice looking ride you got lawman, i am looking at the rcd lift. Overall for the lift, tires and wheels, i'm looking at about 3500.00 out the door. will post a pic when completed

  • 2 weeks later...
curly Enthusiast

curly

Posted
Posted

Those are two nice looking rides..... makes me want to lift the GMC. I just have too many projrcts right now. I have had a cam and a few other items waiting for my T/A for over a year now and have a few more things to pick up before I jump into that. Too little time and money for all the toys I want.....

 

Again, great job both of you :thumbs: .

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • carkhz316
      2006 Silverado HVAC sensor location in dashboard

      By carkhz316 · Posted

      Oh yes, someone is going to be certainly hitting up GM service/ support for a 20 year old truck.
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...