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Posted

Ok - I am new to this post. I have reviewed many of the previous questions posed on tires and wheels. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have the original wheels and tires. I am looking at going up to a 285/75/16. Now about half of the pictures of people's rigs on this forum have 285's running on the original GMM wheels. However, I know that the 8" wheel is recommended. Now - money being tight and all. Would I be running a safety risk running 285's on my original wheels? At least until I can throw down the other half of the dough to pay for the wheels.

Posted

MightyHD is running that size on his stock wheels on an '04 Sierra 2500 HD and says he cleared them by moving the bumper foward 1/4" and a torsion crank or green key install. He also claimed that he had to trim the lower part of the air dam a little to get them to clear.

 

I can actually make my 265's rub very slightly but I'm running EA 194 8" wide wheels with only 4 1/2" of backspacing. I'm installing green keys on it this weekend and have another little trick I'm going to try which should allow for the cleareance of 285's on those wheels for my next set that I buy. I'm just not wanting to do any trimming on the air dam and I really don't want to lift the truck anymore, plus I hated the stock wheels which is why I bought the ones I did.

 

Bottom line, you can make it work but it will take some doing. You'll most likely have to do more than just adjust the tosion bars to realistically clear 285's on a Sierra, even with the stock wheels.

Posted

Frank S is correct. It would not clear unless I moved the bumper forward and trimmed a bit of the lower air dam. I had the stock keys maxed out, I changed to green keys just to have the bolts backed out some.

Posted

How much are the green keys and would you say that it is above average swap or install? How did you move your bumper forward. Also, this seems to be a very controversial questio. It seems that half the people make adjustment while the other half make adjustments. Weird!!

Posted

I paid about $60 for the green keys.

 

To move the front bumper fwd, I took it off, made the bolt holes in it bigger, and put some spacers in it .

 

 

Someone around here has some pics of the process.....

Posted

I also paid $60 for mine and about $80 for the preloader that you should use to remove the bars. Also, the swap is pretty straight foward as long as you have the tools to do it with. Just remember to mark the adjusting bolt (or count the turns it takes to remove them) before you remove it or else you'll be adjusting your truck forever once you've completed the install.

 

Also, no 2 trucks are adjusted the same from the factory and you'll notice that one adjusting bolt will be able to be turned more than the other side before it bottoms out. This is normal and every IFS torsion bar truck I've ever worked on is like that.

  • 4 months later...
Posted
Ok - I am new to this post. I have reviewed many of the previous questions posed on tires and wheels. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have the original wheels and tires. I am looking at going up to a 285/75/16. Now about half of the pictures of people's rigs on this forum have 285's running on the original GMM wheels. However, I know that the 8" wheel is recommended. Now - money being tight and all. Would I be running a safety risk running 285's on my original wheels? At least until I can throw down the other half of the dough to pay for the wheels.

 

 

 

 

Not a Problem, I am running 285's on stock rims with no rub fine. It is a beefier look than 265's I also have some pics, but I am not sure how o post them.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
Ok - I am new to this post. I have reviewed many of the previous questions posed on tires and wheels. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have the original wheels and tires. I am looking at going up to a 285/75/16. Now about half of the pictures of people's rigs on this forum have 285's running on the original GMM wheels. However, I know that the 8" wheel is recommended. Now - money being tight and all. Would I be running a safety risk running 285's on my original wheels? At least until I can throw down the other half of the dough to pay for the wheels.

 

 

 

 

Hey there, I put 285/75/R16's on my stock 2500HD. I opted for the new wheels instead of factorys. I thought it's worth the piece of mind to have the tires on rims designed for them. I got Trxus MT radials (ten ply E LOAD RANGE!) on Pro Comp Xtreme 1069's 16x8 with 4.5" backspacing. I only had to zip tie up some of the inner fender flaps. I also trimmed the plastic air dam just incase. I do have the torsion bars cranked a little. It rides just fine, and I still for the life of me cannot get the d#@n things to rub. Plus, I still have all my load capacities. 3,750 lbs. per tire, but only 3,400lbs. per rim. Hard to find in a mud tire...I hear 285's will wear funny in the middle on factory 6.5" wheels, plus if you have a blowout and cause an accident you'll be at fault for not following the "rules". Kind of hypicritical coming from a fella with non-factory tire size, I know. But I went with the feared "4 Wheel parts" and it all only cost about a grand. Seems nobody likes them. Worked for me.

 

Also I see you've got a Wester's Tune. How's it work? Happy with it? What'd it cost you? I'm thinking of doing the same.

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