Jump to content

Wheel they fit or not?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok - I am new to this post. I have reviewed many of the previous questions posed on tires and wheels. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have the original wheels and tires. I am looking at going up to a 285/75/16. Now about half of the pictures of people's rigs on this forum have 285's running on the original GMM wheels. However, I know that the 8" wheel is recommended. Now - money being tight and all. Would I be running a safety risk running 285's on my original wheels? At least until I can throw down the other half of the dough to pay for the wheels.

Posted

MightyHD is running that size on his stock wheels on an '04 Sierra 2500 HD and says he cleared them by moving the bumper foward 1/4" and a torsion crank or green key install. He also claimed that he had to trim the lower part of the air dam a little to get them to clear.

 

I can actually make my 265's rub very slightly but I'm running EA 194 8" wide wheels with only 4 1/2" of backspacing. I'm installing green keys on it this weekend and have another little trick I'm going to try which should allow for the cleareance of 285's on those wheels for my next set that I buy. I'm just not wanting to do any trimming on the air dam and I really don't want to lift the truck anymore, plus I hated the stock wheels which is why I bought the ones I did.

 

Bottom line, you can make it work but it will take some doing. You'll most likely have to do more than just adjust the tosion bars to realistically clear 285's on a Sierra, even with the stock wheels.

Posted

Frank S is correct. It would not clear unless I moved the bumper forward and trimmed a bit of the lower air dam. I had the stock keys maxed out, I changed to green keys just to have the bolts backed out some.

Posted

How much are the green keys and would you say that it is above average swap or install? How did you move your bumper forward. Also, this seems to be a very controversial questio. It seems that half the people make adjustment while the other half make adjustments. Weird!!

Posted

I paid about $60 for the green keys.

 

To move the front bumper fwd, I took it off, made the bolt holes in it bigger, and put some spacers in it .

 

 

Someone around here has some pics of the process.....

Posted

I also paid $60 for mine and about $80 for the preloader that you should use to remove the bars. Also, the swap is pretty straight foward as long as you have the tools to do it with. Just remember to mark the adjusting bolt (or count the turns it takes to remove them) before you remove it or else you'll be adjusting your truck forever once you've completed the install.

 

Also, no 2 trucks are adjusted the same from the factory and you'll notice that one adjusting bolt will be able to be turned more than the other side before it bottoms out. This is normal and every IFS torsion bar truck I've ever worked on is like that.

  • 4 months later...
Posted
Ok - I am new to this post. I have reviewed many of the previous questions posed on tires and wheels. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have the original wheels and tires. I am looking at going up to a 285/75/16. Now about half of the pictures of people's rigs on this forum have 285's running on the original GMM wheels. However, I know that the 8" wheel is recommended. Now - money being tight and all. Would I be running a safety risk running 285's on my original wheels? At least until I can throw down the other half of the dough to pay for the wheels.

 

 

 

 

Not a Problem, I am running 285's on stock rims with no rub fine. It is a beefier look than 265's I also have some pics, but I am not sure how o post them.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
Ok - I am new to this post. I have reviewed many of the previous questions posed on tires and wheels. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have the original wheels and tires. I am looking at going up to a 285/75/16. Now about half of the pictures of people's rigs on this forum have 285's running on the original GMM wheels. However, I know that the 8" wheel is recommended. Now - money being tight and all. Would I be running a safety risk running 285's on my original wheels? At least until I can throw down the other half of the dough to pay for the wheels.

 

 

 

 

Hey there, I put 285/75/R16's on my stock 2500HD. I opted for the new wheels instead of factorys. I thought it's worth the piece of mind to have the tires on rims designed for them. I got Trxus MT radials (ten ply E LOAD RANGE!) on Pro Comp Xtreme 1069's 16x8 with 4.5" backspacing. I only had to zip tie up some of the inner fender flaps. I also trimmed the plastic air dam just incase. I do have the torsion bars cranked a little. It rides just fine, and I still for the life of me cannot get the d#@n things to rub. Plus, I still have all my load capacities. 3,750 lbs. per tire, but only 3,400lbs. per rim. Hard to find in a mud tire...I hear 285's will wear funny in the middle on factory 6.5" wheels, plus if you have a blowout and cause an accident you'll be at fault for not following the "rules". Kind of hypicritical coming from a fella with non-factory tire size, I know. But I went with the feared "4 Wheel parts" and it all only cost about a grand. Seems nobody likes them. Worked for me.

 

Also I see you've got a Wester's Tune. How's it work? Happy with it? What'd it cost you? I'm thinking of doing the same.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...