Jump to content

Help

Crauh

By Crauh
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

Crauh New Member

Crauh

Posted
Posted

I have owned GMC vans for 20 years and never had this happen. Van (01 with 31,000 miles) ran perfectly three weeks ago. Today, turn key - get all lights and fuel pump for 3 seconds, but no solenoid click and no starter crank. Battery is fully charged. All leads to stater are intact. Dealer is a $200 tow away and out of warranty naturally - any similar experiances or ideas. Thanks

budhayes3 Senior Enthusiast

budhayes3

Posted
Posted

Maybe the ignition switch is poop. Get a schematic and jump the 2 wires that need make contact to close the circuit to allow current to flow to the starter solenoid. If you jump out the ign switch and it starts, you found your problem. If not, then go to the next step...maybe check the neutral safety switch for operation. I'm assuming that you already checked all of the battery cables and wires for continuity, and green mold, and any other areas that might create high resistance.

 

Good Luck!

Crauh New Member

Crauh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have owned GMC vans for 20 years and never had this happen. Van (01 with 31,000 miles) ran perfectly three weeks ago. Today, turn key - get all lights and fuel pump for 3 seconds, but no solenoid click and no starter crank. Battery is fully charged. All leads to stater are intact. Dealer is a $200 tow away and out of warranty naturally - any similar experiances or ideas. Thanks

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the reply Budhayes, The fuel pump turns on so the neutral safety lockout switch is probably not the problem. I removed the outer rubber cover below the ignition, but don't know how to remove the inner plastic cover to get to the wires. Any experiance or tips to remove the inner cover? I fear to just stick a driver in there and pry without knowing what I am doing.

 

budhayes3 Senior Enthusiast

budhayes3

Posted
Posted

Kinda tough without a picture or a schematic to go by. There should be a connector for the ign switch that you could jump across if you knew which wires you had to bypass. Maybe someone here has a schematic that they could scan and post if possible.

 

Seems like ignition switch failures are somewhat common on GM trucks and vans, and would definitely cause a no crank. While you're in there, you should check and see if there's a starter relay or IGN fuse that may have gone bad also...could be something simple.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      2026 Silv. 1500 WT reg cab: how many speakers do I have? Is amp module separate?

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a 2026 base 1500 "WT" regular cab. How many speakers do I have If I want to upgrade? Is the audio amp separate from the radio/display unit? [I listen to classical and it gets a bit raspy at slightly higher volumes.  Don't need a sub etc.] Do I have two or 1 speakers in the doors? Thanks Bill  San Jose
    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...