Jump to content

Oil Change, Hot or Cold?


racesport

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a friend who runs an import repair shop. He has a mechanic who does not want to change oil hot. What is GM's point of view on oil changes, hot or cold or just change it please?

Posted

I no expert but I would say hot, cold oil doesn't seem to drain very well.

My .02 is that he is tired of getting burnt by a hot engine..........:flag:

 

Edit-:thumbs: sorry didn't realize this was in the ask the GM expert

 

:thumbs:

John

Posted
I have a friend who runs an import repair shop. He has a mechanic who does not want to change oil hot. What is GM's point of view on oil changes, hot or cold or just change it please?

 

 

 

 

GM has no view on this that I've ever seen. Common sense would say that an engine that is hot and just been shut off would probably have more of any solid contaminants in suspension and they will then go out with the oil. If it's been sitting and cold, I would think some would settle out. However, this is probably pretty insignificant.

 

I can't blame the guy for not wanting to get scorched when pulling the drain plug or filter. Personally, I like to drain my oil after the engine is warmed up.

Posted

The oil should be warm, not hot. If the engine is at operating temp and you drain all the oil out you could risk piston damage. Come to think of it my Ariens snowblower manual says something to this effect, warm not hot as :cheers:

Posted
If the engine is at operating temp and you drain all the oil out you could risk piston damage.

 

Please explain the basis of this theory.

Posted

My .02:

 

If the engine is cold, having sat 4+ hours- DO NOT start and warm it up. The oil has settled in that time, if you start it you'll have more oil left behind in the passages.

 

If it's warm or hot... don't get burned !!

 

I end-up changing my oils hot 99% of the time...

Posted
If the engine is at operating temp and you drain all the oil out you could risk piston damage.

 

Please explain the basis of this theory.

 

 

 

 

Expansion of metal due to high temperature with no oil circulating to act as a heat sink. This is my theory. I really do not see any gain in dumping full operating temp oil, I would rather be safe and dump it when it is warm. Does your shop drain customers oil at operating temp? Probably the engine has been shut off for possibly hours, then they drive it onto the lift and drain the oil.

Posted
Expansion of metal due to high temperature with no oil circulating to act as a heat sink. This is my theory.

 

When the engine is shut off, as it would be if you were about to drain the oil, how is the oil circulating?

Posted
Expansion of metal due to high temperature with no oil circulating to act as a heat sink. This is my theory.

 

When the engine is shut off, as it would be if you were about to drain the oil, how is the oil circulating?

 

 

 

 

Of course it is not circulating. Each time you shut your engine down you dont immediately drain all the oil out of it. The oil in the engine is absorbing heat, so if your engine is at say 210 degrees with the oil in it and you park and drain the oil out, IN MY OPINION you could POSSIBLY cause damage to pistons, rings, etc. I know a small engine like the 8.5 hp Tecumseh on my snow blower is not the same technology as our Vortecs, but the owners manual actually says "do not drain oil while engine is hot, drain only when warm". Again as I initially said, this is my theory, I am not saying I have proof damage will be done.

Posted
Again as I initially said, this is my theory, I am not saying I have proof damage will be done.

 

Understood. Look at it this way. Whether the engine is running or not, most of the oil is in the pan. The oil level in the pan is never up to a point where ithe pistons or cylinder walls are emersed in it, dissipating heat. That doesn't change whether you leave the oil in the pan or drain it out. Doesn't matter if the engine is hot, cold or in-between. Any heat dissipation of the cylinder walls or pistons by oil that is simply in the oil pan is insignificant if there is any at all.

 

I couldn't say why Tecumseh suggests what they do.

Posted

I suspect the reason Tecumseh says not to drain hot is due to liability. Remember McDonalds and the woman and the hot coffee?!

 

An air cooled engine probably runs hotter than our water cooled trucks. I am sure they do not want home owners suing for burns by following directions.

Just a guess in our litigous society.

Posted
I suspect the reason Tecumseh says not to drain hot is due to liability. Remember McDonalds and the woman and the hot coffee?!

 

An air cooled engine probably runs hotter than our water cooled trucks. I am sure they do not want home owners suing for burns by following directions.

Just a guess in our litigous society.

 

 

 

 

 

In a air cooled engine oil provides more cooling than in a water cooled engine and the oil can get scorching hot! I have a JD 318 lawn tractors that if you change it hot after mowing the oil is just about "steaming" when you drain it out. I have changed oil hot for 35 years hot though and my theory is that it runs out quicker and likely to hold more particals in suspension than in a cold engine that has set. There is more than enough oil left on pistons after a hot drain to lube them when it starts up so no cause for concern there.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 831 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...