3/4 ton Brakes

MAC88 · May 21, 2005

I have previously asked this question in another forum and recieved conflicting answers. They all seemed right but, some were more involved work wise, anyways...........

I have a 1996 k2500 4X4 ext cab long bed 8600 GVW with the JB7 brake option

I need to replace my front rotors and they are simply not that willing to come off the vehicle.

My next door neighbor informed me that it is almost a sure thing that the hub assembly will need to be removed, punch out the studs ( i need to replace one that the tire place fried) and then put it all back together. This seems right, but awfully involved for a set of rotors on a vehicle this new.

I am waiting for my factory service manuals to come in but may need to do the job before their arrival.

The haynes and chilton manuals say(i know i know...) these rotors should come right off after the caliper is removed. Now I know soometimes they need a little coaxing with a hammer but, i really wanted to be sure before I went and boogered up a drive axle or hub assembly

I have looked for other topics and found none so if you know of one or know for sure the best way to do this please aim me in the right direction.

Thanks

Matt

mmmikkke · May 21, 2005

I had a 95 k3500 SRW (9200 GVW) and the front rotors were integral with the hubs. Everything had to come off at the same time.

Did you ever see any retaining clips on what you think is the removable rotor? They sometimes place them on 2 or 3 of the wheel studs.

GM-Tech · May 21, 2005

I had a 95 k3500 SRW (9200 GVW) and the front rotors were integral with the hubs. Everything had to come off at the same time.

That hadn't changed in '96, that I recall. There are four bolts on the inner side that hold the hub/rotor assembly on.

MAC88 · May 21, 2005

I knew that the k3500 had the integral hub and rotor but was unaware that the k2500 had the same setup. If so do i need to have it all pressed back together, should i take it to a shop to have it assembled proffessionaly?

thanks for the info so far

dogdays · May 23, 2005

I just got done doing this to my 93 K2500 Sub. First loosen the nut on the end of the halfshaft. Remove the capscrews on the halfshaft-to-axle flange. Remove the tire and the caliper. Hang the caliper with a piece of wire. Disconnect the inner tie rod end, also the stabilizer bar link. Remove the halfshaft. There are four capscrews under the ABS ring that go in from the back. They are in there tight. Remove them. Now the hub pulls out quite easily.

Using a couple blocks of wood, drive the studs out with a 3# hammer. I use a lug nut partially screwed on the stud to protect the end. Clean everything. Using more blocks of wood, reassemble the hub using a big solid piece of bar stock to pound on the studs. I used an old kingpin from my Dodge pickup. Make sure you are not trying to drive the stud into the floor! You will be able to tell when the stud has bottomed out.

Now reinstall, reconnect etc. Be sure to torque all the bolts properly

Then put the wheel back on and torque the nuts. Drive for a few miles or days and hit the nuts again with the torque wrench.

Good as new.

GMTech, don't laugh, but it usually takes me about 4 hours to do this, per side.

R.

PS: If you have a press you can use it instead of the hammer! I didn't actually remove the halfshaft, I used a prybar to get a thinwall deep socket on the capscrews. Removing the halfshaft makes it go faster.

GM-Tech · May 23, 2005

GMTech, don't laugh, but it usually takes me about 4 hours to do this, per side.

I ain't laughin! If I'm working on my own, I take my time. It's not as if I'm getting paid only a certain amount to do something on it.

MAC88 · May 28, 2005

thanks for all the info, I am taking 8 or so hours out of my schedule next week to get these brakes done!!!!

MAC88 · September 26, 2005

I know this is an older thread GM-tech but I wanted to ask your highness his thought on something,

The tire guys stripped 2 studs on the front hubs of thgis very same 96 chevy k2500 4x4, I simply knocked the studs out by removing the caliper and using that empty space to gain access to the back of the studs, I replace the new ones with ease using a brass drift to get them set then sucked them up with a stock lug nut on top of a 7/8 nut.

My questions is:

If I can easily remove the wheel studs while the hub etc is still mounted won't i be able to remove the rotors with the the hub assembly still on the vehicle?

what harm can come from doing it this way if I am patient and careful?

i have not needed to replace the rotors ....yet, but have the new ones waiting

GM-Tech · September 26, 2005

Seems to me it'd be much easier to just pull it apart and do it the right way. Trying to save time and effort by shortcutting often takes more time with more potential for something going wrong.