Jump to content

2nd battery installation


Recommended Posts

Has anyone installed a 2nd battery in their truck? My 04 2500 HD 6.0 did not come with this option, and I was wondering if the dealer will do this and approximately how much it costs...

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

All you have to buy from the dealer is the right side battery tray.The rest of the stuff depending on how you want your dual batteries wired is not that expensive, and it's an easy mod. I put dual batteries in my 02 Burban with an isolator and all the parts(including the tray) except for the battery was around $90.00. I use my auxillary battery for my winch so I may not have the same setup that you would like to use, but if you are interested I can explain it to you. :):cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jacqson,

 

I would like to use it to help power a trailer (a horse and camper trailer), but not interfere with the main battery so I don't get stuck with two dead batteries. If this is how you connected yours, then Yes, I would be interested in how you connected your battery.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jacqson,

 

I would like to use it to help power a trailer (a horse and camper trailer), but not interfere with the main battery so I don't get stuck with two dead batteries. If this is how you connected yours, then Yes, I would be interested in how you connected your battery.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

OK, My setup has the batteries separated when the truck is not running and they are joined when you engage the ignition and the truck is running. This way if one battery goes dead you can still start the truck with the other one. If this is what you are looking for then let me know and I can PM you the info or I can post it here. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, that sounds like what I would want... trailer to use aux battery with no access to main battery (so that the main can't get drained), but when truck is on, both batteries get charged - by the way, how effective would this be? Is there a better scenario/system than what I think I want?

 

Also, would I need to modify anything else (like the alternator) to accomodate this kind of setup?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, that sounds like what I would want... trailer to use aux battery with no access to main battery (so that the main can't get drained), but when truck is on, both batteries get charged - by the way, how effective would this be? Is there a better scenario/system than what I think I want?

 

Also, would I need to modify anything else (like the alternator) to accomodate this kind of setup?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

OK, This description is all about the aux battery wiring, the main battery is not touched. After installing the Aux Battery making sure it is the same CCA as the main battery. Pick up a Cole Hersee Continuous Duty Solenoid(Part# 24143) and bolt it on the firewall. This solenoid has 4 posts, 2 large and 2 small. Connect your positive cable from the Aux battery to one of the large posts on the solenoid, then from the other large post to the starter where you will see the main battery cable connected. Bolt the positive to the large starter post. Connect the negative cable to any good ground, or the engine block. Connect a 14-18 gauge wire to one of the small posts on the solenoid and then connect it to a good ground. Use the same size wire, connect it to the other post on the solenoid and then to an ignition activated source, not a continuous power source. Once this is done you are good to go. This is how it works. When the vehicle is not running the solenoid is open thus separating the batteries. When you activate the ignition activated power source for the solenoid, the solenoid closes and both batteries are joined in parallel. As long as the vehicle is running or the power source for the solenoid is activated both batteries will be charged. You do not have to modify the alternator. The bonus to this setup is you will have lots of cranking power because you have the capacity of two batteries to start your truck. This system will work perfect for your application and it is not very expensive for the parts,except for maybe the battery. and this will work as you described on your post. If you have any other questions,let me know. :fume:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the clear and detailed instructions!

 

2 questions:

 

1. What ignition activated source did you connect your cable to?

 

2. Will this setup be the same as having the TP2 option (GM aux battery)? I ask this because the brake controller wiring harness that came with my truck says to install the 40A fuse that accompanies the cable if the TP2 aux battery option is installed. I guess the real question I'm asking is: Do I need to install this 40A fuse when I connect the wiring harness to the brake controller and fuse box?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the clear and detailed instructions!

 

2 questions:

 

1. What ignition activated source did you connect your cable to?

 

2. Will this setup be the same as having the TP2 option (GM aux battery)? I ask this because the brake controller wiring harness that came with my truck says to install the 40A fuse that accompanies the cable if the TP2 aux battery option is installed. I guess the real question I'm asking is: Do I need to install this 40A fuse when I connect the wiring harness to the brake controller and fuse box?

 

 

 

 

I used the windshield wiper motor power lead as the wipers only work when the ignition is activated. The best way to find an ignition activated power source is to get a test light or ground the solenoid by connecting a wire to one of the small posts to a ground, then connect a wire to the other small post and search out a wire or some other possible source of power. Connect the power lead to that source and put the ignition to start.. If there is power to the lead you will here the solenoid click, which means it has power. Turn the start to off and test the wire again, if you do not hear a click then that source is ignition activated, if you here a click when the ignition is turned off then you have a constant power source, which you don't want. I had a GM electrician wire mine up that is why I used the WW power lead.

This setup is similar to the TP2 and that is why I would install the 40A fuse that is requested for the brake controller wiring harness. It is a good safety feature to have and it does not cause any loss of power to your brake controller. Sorry for being so long winded. :fume:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the clear and detailed instructions!

 

2 questions:

 

1. What ignition activated source did you connect your cable to?

 

2. Will this setup be the same as having the TP2 option (GM aux battery)? I ask this because the brake controller wiring harness that came with my truck says to install the 40A fuse that accompanies the cable if the TP2 aux battery option is installed. I guess the real question I'm asking is: Do I need to install this 40A fuse when I connect the wiring harness to the brake controller and fuse box?

 

 

 

 

Sorry about the double post. :fume::cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
Thanks for the clear and detailed instructions!

 

2 questions:

 

1. What ignition activated source did you connect your cable to?

 

2. Will this setup be the same as having the TP2 option (GM aux battery)? I ask this because the brake controller wiring harness that came with my truck says to install the 40A fuse that accompanies the cable if the TP2 aux battery option is installed. I guess the real question I'm asking is: Do I need to install this 40A fuse when I connect the wiring harness to the brake controller and fuse box?

 

 

 

 

Sorry about the double post. :P:D

 

 

 

 

 

In this set up...IF the main is dead how does the seloniod get power to allow the use of the second battery ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the clear and detailed instructions!

 

2 questions:

 

1. What ignition activated source did you connect your cable to?

 

2. Will this setup be the same as having the TP2 option (GM aux battery)? I ask this because the brake controller wiring harness that came with my truck says to install the 40A fuse that accompanies the cable if the TP2 aux battery option is installed. I guess the real question I'm asking is: Do I need to install this 40A fuse when I connect the wiring harness to the brake controller and fuse box?

 

 

 

 

Sorry about the double post. :P:D

 

 

 

 

 

In this set up...IF the main is dead how does the seloniod get power to allow the use of the second battery ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can carry about a foot of 16-18 gauge wire with an alligator clip at both ends. Connect one clip to the positive terminal on the aux battery and the other to the ignition activated post on the solenoid. This will close the solenoid and allow the battery power to start your truck. You could also do the same type of thing and have the switch inside the truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the clear and detailed instructions!

 

2 questions:

 

1. What ignition activated source did you connect your cable to?

 

2. Will this setup be the same as having the TP2 option (GM aux battery)? I ask this because the brake controller wiring harness that came with my truck says to install the 40A fuse that accompanies the cable if the TP2 aux battery option is installed. I guess the real question I'm asking is: Do I need to install this 40A fuse when I connect the wiring harness to the brake controller and fuse box?

 

 

 

 

Sorry about the double post. :D:crackup:

 

 

 

 

 

In this set up...IF the main is dead how does the seloniod get power to allow the use of the second battery ?

 

 

 

 

 

Solenoids don't take much juice to activate. Rarely is a battery 100% cold stone dead. 99% of the time, the 'dead' battery can still energize the solenoid.

 

DEWFPO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the dual battery setup, but unfortunatly they dont have a switch over when the primary is dead.

 

So here is my question. If I want the poor mans solution of just 4 aligators and some wire to simply 'jump' the primary from the secondary when its dead. What gauge wire and aligators do I need to accomplish this?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.