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Stronger Drivetrain?


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Posted

My truck is mostly on the road but when i do hit the mud i want to have something that won't break on me..such as stock axles, etc. In the rear I have and aurburn locker and the 4.56's but as far as axles what do I need to hold the stress of 40's. In the front what kind of axles do i need to keep from snapping like stock ones.. that's if i keep an IFS.. and if i do convert to a straight front axle I am gonna put a d60 in it... need suggestions!

Posted

40's and your stock drivetrain will not go well together!

 

For the rear:

Either a 14 bolt FF or SF out of a chevy truck. The Full-floater is the bullet-proof axle of them all. It has a 10.5" ring gear, you can put gears as low as 5.13 in it. The only downside to this axle is the large center section leading way to low ground clearance. The Semi-floater is a 9.5" ring gear and only goes to 4.56. It's more expensive to build, harder to find, and inherently weaker in design. Get a 14 bolt Full-Floater. They can be found in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks from '73 up to the HD era of '02. If you get one out of a 1 ton truck, it should swap in without needing to move spring perches. However, you're better off getting one that you do need to move the perches for so at the same time you can adjust your pinion angle for the lift. Oh yeah, and the 14 bolt FF comes with an open of a gov-lock limited slip differential. If you get one with a gov-lock, it can not be outfitted with a Detroit locker. If you get one with an open carrier, it can easily be welded, spooled, or locked. Don't pay more than $250 for a 14 bolt FF, they're abundant.

 

For the front:

IFS is out of the question at 40s in my opinion. It's iffy at 38s on the street...let alone 40s offroad. The best option for you is the Dana 60. Your truck has a driver's-side drop transfercase so you'll need to get a Dana 60 from a Ford truck. While you're at it, get one that has reverse rotation so your pinion is higher off the ground for better clearance. Get ready to shell out $1000-1500 for a Dana 60 of any type.

 

And, with your new 8 lug axles, it's time for new 8 lug wheels.

 

If you go with the 14 bolt FF and hi-pinion Dana 60, you'll have the bulletproof drivetrain any off-roader will respect/drool over.

 

-Steve

Posted

:cheers: What he said. :D

 

 

The only non OEM axle I have heard of is just now being offered by rough country. Doubt it'd handle 40's though.

Posted

Also keep in mind that you are in a 1/2 ton "light duty" truck and you're putting in some heavy gear. One shop told me that these frames aren't really meant for this type of stuff.

Posted
Also keep in mind that you are in a 1/2 ton "light duty" truck and you're putting in some heavy gear. One shop told me that these frames aren't really meant for this type of stuff.

 

 

 

 

The frames will be able to handle heavier duty axles...that's all unsprung weight. However, what this shop was probably getting at is that if you put 3/4 ton or 1 ton axles in a half-ton truck, that does not mean you can now haul as much as a 1 ton truck.

Posted

ANYTHING CAN AND WILL BREAK GIVEN THE RIGHT SITUTATION. IF YOUR IN THE MUD A 60 f&r SHOUDL HOLD UP, BUT i WOUDL GIVE DYNATRAC A CALL AND UPGRADE TO THE 35 SPLINE SHAFTS. MAYBE EVEN GET A HP ROCK JOCK 60 WITH THE ALUM CENTER.

 

OR GO WITH MOG AXLES OR ROCKWELLS. OR A MOG 9.

 

DO SOME HOMEWORK YOURSELF , AND THEN YOU CAN ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS YOURSELF.

Posted
ANYTHING CAN AND WILL BREAK GIVEN THE RIGHT SITUTATION.  IF YOUR IN THE MUD A 60 f&r SHOUDL HOLD UP, BUT i WOUDL GIVE DYNATRAC A CALL AND UPGRADE TO THE 35 SPLINE SHAFTS.  MAYBE EVEN GET A HP ROCK JOCK 60 WITH THE ALUM CENTER. 

 

OR GO WITH MOG AXLES OR ROCKWELLS.  OR A MOG 9. 

 

DO SOME HOMEWORK YOURSELF , AND THEN YOU CAN ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS YOURSELF.

 

 

 

 

This is part of his "homework" I would imagine. :D

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