Jump to content

Computer Help


RyanbabZ71

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone repaired a laptop screen? I have a dell 2500. Below is a pic of my problem. Been like this for about a month. I have it plugged into a monitor now.

 

I did break down and buy the following today :seeya:

 

Dell Dimension 3000 Series Intel® Pentium® 4 Processor (2.80GHz, 533 FSB)

 

Memory 512MB Dual Channel DDR SDRAM at 400MHz

512M4

 

Monitors FREE UPGRADE! 15 in (15.0 in viewable) E153FP Analog Flat Panel

E153FPP

 

Hard Drive 80GB Ultra ATA/100 7200RPM Hard Drive

80

 

CD or DVD Drive Dual Drives: 16x DVD-ROM Drive + 16x DVD+/-RW w/dbl layer write capability

 

Dell 720 Color Printer

Free Dell Color Printer 720 Qty: 1

laptop.jpg

laptop.jpg

laptop.jpg

laptop.jpg

Posted

I would say that the connection from the video driver to the screen went bad if it works fine when hooked up to another monitor. My Dell latitude screen started going all kinds of funky colors and Dell replaced it under the warranty. They came out to my work and did it. Was interesting to see how they did it. Mostly the screen cost more than the laptop now a days.

My wife just picked up a nice Gateway at Best Buy during our one weekend a year back to school no tax weekend. So we got it for a nice price without paying any state tax on it. :seeya:

Posted

Yea it works with a monitor hooked up.

 

This laptop has been problems since day 30 (1st month).

 

I have had the keyboard go out twice. 1st time Dell fixed under warranty. Sent it in Friday mid morning got it back early Monday morning. I was very happy.

 

Had the hard drive go out early last winter. Lost a bunch of stuff

 

Now my screen went out.

 

Wouldnt you know though it started working today right after I ordered the new computer. I ordered it because I needed something reliable for my online grad class and my gf starting PT school next week.

Posted

Ryan, it's either the cable itself, or the connection on either end. Those screens aren't terribly hard to take apart, if you know what you're doing.

 

I work on a business campus, we deploy approx. 1,000 computers a year (mainly laptops). The desktop PCs we deploy are Dell Optiplex GX-280s. P4 3.0, 512 MB of DC memory, 80 GB SATA HDD, CD/DVD burner, 17" FP monitor. Your new Dimension should be a nice system, our desktops are QUICK, I can't wait till I get one on my desk, when the warranty on my system expires...

Posted
Wouldnt you know though it started working today right after I ordered the new computer.

 

 

 

Uh-huh. Right.

 

That's exactly what I tell my wife when I feel the need for some more computer toys. :crackup:

 

 

 

 

 

j.k.

 

But I know your pain when a piece of hardware goes AWOL. I recently installed a third IDE hard drive (80GB WD WD800JB) onto an SATA port using an IDE to SATA adapter. I did that because I like keeping all of my drives on individual controllers (having more than one on a single controller / cable can actually slow the faster drive down). Anyway, turns out that the WD doesn't care for my SATA adapters, and I haven't had time to locate the old dual drive IDE cable so that I can (give up and) put it on the secondary connection with the C drive.. For now it's still mounted in a drive bay, but completely disconnected.

 

(Being a computer geek makes this situation seem worse than it sounds. :seeya:)

Posted

USA that all went way over my head haha

 

I cannot believe it but the screen is working for a second day in a row. I didnt plan on getting rid of it we will probably need 2 computers here.

Posted

They make this stuff called ProGold. It's a contact cleaner and it works great. I've used it to fix a lot of intermittant low current connections.

 

I think you can get it at RadShack now.

 

If you can pull the display apart and find any connectors, unplug them, spray them, and reconnect them. Since yours comes and goes, it's probably a broken wire (unlikely) or a bad connection (most likely).

 

Good Luck!

Posted

Heh. Sorry about that. I really AM a computer geek (was much worse before we got orders to here in NC and I picked a rental that can't get broadband internet though! :D). It all begins with the need for a new PC (and then a FASTER PC, faster video card, faster processor, more memory..) and goes downhill fast. Computers are evolving so fast that it's easy to spend more money on them than on our trucks, if you're not careful! I guess I really should thank my lack of high-speed internet for helping break the cycle and force me to get outside for some stuff (like cleaning my vehicles, adding stuff to my truck.. uh oh, gotta get those leather heated seat covers from autoleathers, that DVD Nav unit and dual headrest displays, tuned PCM, AACCCKKKK!!! :cheers: ).

Posted

I dunno guys. If it works with a monitor hooked up, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the display is toast. Laptops (I'm pretty sure) use teh same video card to drive both the external VGA input and the display inside the computer. I'd call Dell and tell em you want a new one.

Posted

I'd definatly be interested to hear what the cause of this problem is. We use laptops at work a lot and I've seen a few displays kick the bucket.

Posted

It's the display itself or the cable between the system and the display. I've seen those cables go bad, and have a drawer full of good ones in my cube should I need one.

 

Yes, the LCD and external display use the same card, but you can enable them for dual-monitor with seperate outputs on some models. We have some that you can use as dual-monitor and the 2 displays will have 2 distinct desktops...

Posted

I think a display is like a GM ignition control module. Once it quits, it don't ever come back if all the connections are good. I've only replaced about 3 or 4 dead ones in my lifetime, so they are rare.

 

If it comes and goes, it's most likely a bad connection or cracked trace somewhere. I've seen bad solder joints cause this also. If everything else looks fine, heat up each pin on the connector with a pencil tip soldering iron, using just a little bit of new rosin core solder to touch up each one. I fixed my buddy's TV last week doing just this. Something was intermittant and I must have wiggled everything in the TV at least once trying to find it. I resoldered about 50 connections and one of 'em must have been it! It has been working perfect ever since...

 

If it works some of the time, it can be fixed. It just takes a little time and patience. Good Luck fixing yours! I hope you're successful!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 338 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...