Jump to content

Bose Noise


tec3001

Recommended Posts

Posted

I need some help with the Bose system in my 05 Envoy Denali. When my engine is running, I hear a high pitched noise coming from my rear door speakers. It seems like the noise is only in the rear speakers, when I fade to the front only, the noise is still in the rear speakers. I also noticed that when the rear audio control is used the rear speakers cut off and the noise is gone. When the engine is off all is good.

 

Does anyone have any ideas where I can start to fix this annoying problem? I have been to the dealer 3 times with no luck.

Posted

First, they should perform the following bulletin (even if it doesn't exactly describe your problem). After they do this, there's a PI (preliminary information) bulletin they should follow. I'll include that too.

 

BTW, these were found with about a 1 minute search in our Service Information, which your dealer should also have found... and maybe did and already tried.

 

FIRST THE BULLETIN

 

Buzz Type Noise Coming From Rear Speakers (Relocate Transfer Case Module Ground) #04-08-44-014B - (Oct 19, 2004)

 

2004-2005 Buick Rainier

 

2004-2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT

 

2004-2005 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL, Envoy XUV

 

2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

 

with Speaker System Premium Performance Enhanced (Bose®) Audio (RPO UQA) and A4WD/AWD

 

This bulletin is being revised to provide an updated service procedure and new warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-08-44-014A (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a buzz type noise heard through the rear speakers. This noise can only be heard when the radio is on, volume low and while driving in A4WD/AWD mode. The noise USUALLY occurs above 32 km/h (20 mph) and is related to the active transfer case operation.

 

Correction

Important: This procedure will only correct the noise related to transfer case operation. It will not correct the speed sensitive whine type noise, commonly referred to as alternator whine.

 

 

Perform the following procedure to reduce the rear speaker buzz noise caused by the active transfer case.

 

Remove the left side IP closeout panel.

Remove the transfer case control module and mounting bracket from the IP mag beam.

Disconnect the C3 connector from the transfer case control module.

Remove the wire and terminal from cavity A (circuit 2250) from C3 connector. Tape back.

Construct a new ground wire using terminals P/N 12047767 and P/N 12089496. Route this wire through the grommet from the IP out to the engine compartment.

Install the new ring terminal onto ground stud (G105) located on the bulkhead just above the brake booster.

Install the new terminal into cavity A of connector C3.

Connect the C3 connector to the transfer case control module.

Install the transfer case control module and mounting bracket to the IP mag beam.

Install the left side IP closeout panel.

Part Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

Material Allowance

 

12047767

Terminal

1

-

 

12089496

Ring Terminal

1

-

 

-

Bulk 14 Gauge Wire

-

$2.00

 

 

The terminals are included in Packard Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A or available for ordering by calling 1-800-GM-TOOLS.

 

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

 

N9517 *

Ground (T/C Module) - Relocate

0.4 hr

 

 

*This is a unique labor operation number for use only with this bulletin. This number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

 

HERE'S THE P.I. (which specifically says to perform the above bulletin first)

 

Buzz Noise from Rear Speakers after Bulletin 04-08-44-014B - keywords AMP amplifier radio sound speaker UQA #PIT3522A - (Jul 13, 2005)

 

 

2004-2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT

 

2004-2005 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL, Envoy XUV

 

2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

 

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Rear speaker noise on vehicles with rear seat audio controls (RSA) and Bose amplifier. This noise can be produced from a variety of high load or PWM controlled electrical components (rear window defroster, heated seats...) but usually can be identified as a whine noise related to engine speed (generator electrical feedback). This condition can be verified by turning the RSA on (rear speakers off) and the noise should go away. If the noise is the same the root cause most likely exists elsewhere and additional diagnosis is necessary.

 

Recommendation/Instructions:

Perform the following procedure to reduce the rear speaker buzz noise AFTER all low level and high level circuit integrity has been verified. For example, it is possible for the system to produce audio output to the speakers even if a (-) circuit has an open. However it will most likely produce undesirable noise in this condition.

 

Remove the console assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the Console Replacement procedure in the Instrument Panel and Console sub-section of the service manual.

Remove the rear seat audio module from the console.

Remove the console harness, running between the in-line to IP connector and the rear seat audio module.

Remove the following circuits from the in-line to IP connector and twist together (minimum of 1 twist per inch) in 4 separate pairs.

- B1 (circuit 199, brown) and B5 (circuit 116, yellow)

 

- A8 (circuit 599, brown) and B3 (circuit 1547, brown)

 

- B2 (circuit 46, dark blue) and B6 (circuit 115, light blue)

 

- A9 (circuit 546, dark blue) and A1 (circuit 1946, black)

 

Place the circuits back into their original cavities

Install the console harness.

Install the rear seat audio module to the console.

Install the console assembly into the vehicle. Refer to the Console Replacement procedure in the Instrument Panel and Console sub-section of the service manual.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Posted

The dealer did apply the Bulletin, but that did not help. The PI you listed sound exactly like the problem I am having. I am going to discuss this with them this week.

 

Thanks for the great information.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,014 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...