Jump to content

Oil Leak


divejoe

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 1500 silverado (5.3 engine, 150K miles) has this oil leak around the oil filter area that no dealer seems capable to find or fix. Four trips to the dealer ($300+) and still no luck.

First visit they said it was the rear main seal. They wanted to charge me $800 so I went to a different dealer for a second opinion. they inspected the rear main seal and it wasn't leaking, they said it was a defective K&N filter which they replaced. Didn't fix the problem so I went back, this time they told me it was the gasket for the oil adapter. It was replaced. Still leaking, so I went back, this time they told me it was the oil cooler blockoff cover so it was replaced. The truck is still leaking around the same area.

I need some advice on how to approach the dealer so they can fix this problem. One of the service reps even recommended to leave it like it was since it's a small leak after all, but I think it getting worse.

What are your thoughs about the cause of this leak> I read in one of the forums that the intake manifold gasket might need to be replaced, but the mechanics never mentioned anything like this.

Any words of wisdom?

Thanks for your help!!

Posted

GM Tech,

 

With 150K miles on my truck, would you recommend spending more than $500 to fix my truck's leak?

Have you had many problems with rear main seals going bad? Thanks for your help! This is a great site!!!

Posted

I can't comment on whether or not your truck is worth $500 in repairs, but unless it's total junk I would say it is.

 

I'd clean the engine underneath as best possible, then add some fluorescent oil dye to the oil so the source of the leak can be found. Sure, it could be coming from the intake or just about anywhere else.

 

We don't do many oil leak repairs. Not like the "old days" when just about everything leaked like a sieve. Engines are pretty oil tight these days. Keep in mind that a lot of the older or higher mileage vehicles don't always go back to the dealer, since we're perceived as costing more for service.

Posted

They cleaned the engine and then performed the dye test. It ended up being the rear main seal after all.

Got it replaced and it looks good so far. They charged me $600 (mostly labor because they had to remove the trans).

Anyways thanks for your help!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

GM Tech,

 

Well my dear friend the leak is back. I took the skid plate off (should have done this to begin with but ...) and saw must of the oil around the oil pan bolts (oil filter side). Oil pan gasket maybe?

Don't you think the dye test would have pointed to this area? The mechanic said it was the rear main seal so it was replaced. Now if I take it back and if indeed is the oil pan gasket that needs to be replaced, will they charge me full cost for the replacement or do I get a "break" and they absorb the cost under the 30 day warranty?

How many hours would it take? Do they have to drop the whole front end?

 

Once again thanks for your help! You're alright!

 

Happy New Year!

Posted

Is it a 4WD? That's a little tougher, but an oil pan on one of these is not that difficult.

 

My opinion is, if you took it in and relied on their diagnosis as to what was leaking and paid to fix what they said was leaking, it should be fixed. Without being there and knowing the whole story (there are always two sides), I'd say they owe you something, that's for sure.

Posted
Is it a 4WD?  That's a little tougher, but an oil pan on one of these is not that difficult.

 

My opinion is, if you took it in and relied on their diagnosis as to what was leaking and paid to fix what they said was leaking, it should be fixed.  Without being there and knowing the whole story (there are always two sides), I'd say they owe you something, that's for sure.

 

 

 

 

Yup, it's a 4WD. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and see how it goes. They have been pretty straight forward so far.

 

What's the std cost for that if you don't mind?

  • 3 years later...
Posted
What's the std cost for that if you don't mind?

 

No idea right now. I'm at home and don't have access to labor times.

 

 

Hello guys,

Sorry for bringing up this old post, but I have the same issue.I have pretty much eliminated other sources for the leak. After wiping the area down and driving a few miles, there is oil on the adapter. Wiping again, I see where the adapter is inserted, the oil starts to form a new drop.

My best guess is the seal is bad.

 

 

Adapter bolts are tight. I found one seal kit online for the diesel models, not sure if ths is the same kit for the non diesel.

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/product_117_...r_seal_kit.html

 

 

I'd really like to get this locally, instead of ordering online. I have yet to call the dealer.

 

 

Questions, does anyone have a GM part number for the seal kit, 1996 Tahoe 5.7 4WD?

 

Is the aluminum "splash pan" (flywheel access) removable without ruining the connection to the trans? I don't want to mis-align anything. That way I can double check the rear main seal. I think the oil from the adapter is blowing back, into that splash shield and letting a drop or two come from the drip hole.

 

The two lines coming from the oil adapter have plastic retainers. Are these easily removed, and will I have to loosen the lines toward the front of the vehicle to get them out of the adapter?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Gary.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gilkey96
    Newest Member
    Gilkey96
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 800 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph. 
    • Anyone ever thought about switching the interior door panels from the base model to the Denali style? I’ve seen that you basically have to cut, sand, mold, paint, the window switches together to get the look right. Is that the main reason people don’t bother doing the swap? Seems like the only method that is easy I guess, without having to mess around with wiring and stuff.
    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...