removing rear pads 2000 GMC 2500

[obrut]

trying to change the rear pads and rotors on my 2000 GMC 2500 with the 4 wheel disk. I can't get the torx bolts to break loose, is there a trick to doing this? I got the 2 18m bolts loose but can't get the pads out.

 

Tim

[Ape0r]

trying to change the rear pads and rotors on my 2000 GMC 2500 with the 4 wheel disk.  I can't get the torx bolts to break loose, is there a trick to doing this?  I got the 2 18m bolts loose but can't get the pads out.

 

Tim

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

With just one of the two caliper bolts removed (actually it'll probably only work with the lower removed due to brake line length), you should be able to easily rotate the caliper about the other bolt and pop the pads out.

 

Otherwise, the trick is a longer breaker bar! Something I've always thought of trying but never has is to align the wrench horizontally and use a jack to push up on it. Probably not a good idea though =).

 

If you are going to go ahead and remove the calipers entirely, it would be a good idea to change the parking brake shoes as well. Once the calipers are removed, the rotors will slide right off, if they haven't been removed before there will be small metal clips holding them to the wheel studs, these are only there for faster assembly times at the factory and are not necessary. Just cut/pull them off, slide the rotor off, remove the clip holding on the shoes with a screw driver, work the shoes around the hub from one end to the other (At first it will seem impossible, but keep fooling with it), adjust the shoes (just like any other drum brake system, except the adjuster is built onto the pusherthingamabob), slam it all back together, and you're done.

[gmcjoe]

Penetrating spray and a breaker bar

[SteveCZ]

yup, penetrating spray and a bigger bar, make sure you keep one hand on the torx bit, so you don't round it off, and one on the end of the bar and push.

 

I just took off the calipers and caliper brackets on my 1500. Ended up splitting an 18mm socket into three pieces, good thing I had a spare.

[obrut]

i stripped the torx bolt so now i can't loosen it but the good news is i figured out that i don't have to take those out. I got the two 18m out and then i can just slide the caliper back on that bracket and take the pads out of the back. The inventor of the torx bolts should be shot. Why don't they just use regular bolts? Also i was woundering my truck is a 3/4 ton with the hydroboost brakes and 4 wheel disk, do i have ABS? Because i don't see a abs system under the hood.

 

Tim

[obrut]

While i'm under there i should change my diff and transfercase fluids. I don't have my owners manual and i did a search on this site. From what i've read i need to run synthetic 75w-90 in the rear and 80w-90 in the front but i could not find anything on the t-case fluid(its manual shift btw). Anyone have the owners manual handy?

 

Tim

[SteveCZ]

I would just get the T-Case fluid from your dealer.... I know the AutoTrac ones need the special "Smurf Oil", but the manuals don't, I beleive, but I'm not sure if you can still use it in the manual ones (smurf oil).

 

If I were you, when you take the 18mm bolts off for the caliper mounting braket, try to get the torx bolts out of the calipers then.... and when you go to the dealer, get the replacement ones.... its much easier when changing the pads to just unbolt the torx bolt, swing the caliper up out of the way and change the pads, then swing it back down.