Jump to content

LR Wheel Seal Leaking


Shawn T

Recommended Posts

Posted

(truck in sig)

GMTech,

I have a LR wheel seal leaking fluid and it is like a centrafuge spinning it all over the wheel, inner fender, brake rotor, and caliper. I have changed a seal on a half ton once and it was kind of combersome. With a full floating axle, can I just remove the inner axle from the hub end? If I remember right, on the half ton, I had to open the rear diff and remove a clip. Do I have to re-pack the wheel bearings? Can you give me some instruction or PM me?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

One more time. I thought this would get some responses. Is it really that rare of a fix that no one, not even a tech, can help? I am desperate. I have asked every local mechanic, including the local GM tech. No one has done a rear seal on a GM full floater for years. I guess my main concerns are these: What kind of spanner wrench do I need for the spanner nut? I know older GM trucks used a two-toothed nut, washer with holes over another nut with a nipple on it. Wow that sounded like a border-line porn description. The other concern is the park brake assembly. I know with rear disks that is is a seperate "hat" brake. Is is attached to the rotor, and if so, does it have to be removed. I made an appointment with the service dep to have it done on Friday. If I can save some coin by doing it myself I will. If the spanner socket is going to be expensive and I need a puller then I will just let them do it. That is my dilema. All I need is some resolve.

Posted

The axle is not retained by a clip like the smaller axles. The bolts that ring the axle flange are what hold it in. Remove the axle, remove the retainer for the hub and the whole hub assembly comes off. You don't pack the bearings. They're lubed by the axle lube that currently leaking out all over the place.

Posted
The axle is not retained by a clip like the smaller axles.  The bolts that ring the axle flange are what hold it in.  Remove the axle, remove the retainer for the hub and the whole hub assembly comes off.  You don't pack the bearings.  They're lubed by the axle lube that currently leaking out all over the place.

 

 

 

 

 

When you say "retainer", is that a spanner nut? I guess my only question now is, do I need a special socket for the retainer nut? I have seen them with "teeth" and I have seen them with just a cotter pin through the spindle. Can I pop the seal out with out removing or damaging the inner bearing-race assembly. Sorry for all of the questions. I know as soon as I remove the axle, some diff fluid will leak out. I will have to top it off. A mechanic at work told me to check the breather line also. Could a clogged breather cause a wheel seal to blow? Any other obstacles in my way? I am probably making a mountain out of a mohill. It just concers me because I have not talked to anyone who has actually done one on a newer truck.

Posted
When you say "retainer", is that a spanner nut?  I guess my only question now is, do I need a special socket for the retainer nut?

 

Yes and yes. You also need a specific seal driver to get the seal in to the proper depth and square to the bore. And once you've place the hub assm. back on to the axle housing, you cannot take it back off without very likely damaging the seal, so make sure you're ready to put it together. No test runs.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old thread....but I was wondering sstimothy if you had tried this yourself....and if so what all was involved....?

 

I appear to be having the same issue on my 01 HD.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
    • It’s at the point of amusement. I’m retired I have time. It’s fun seeing people try to convince me I’m using oil. I’m buying oil at the prescribed time. It gets drained and new goes in. Do I add in between, no. My oil doesn’t even get dirty in 5k miles. I don’t even see any drop on the stick. I check in the same place. All is well.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...