'96 K1500 coversion to K2500?

Johnshan · February 27, 2006

Hey everyone, I have a 1996 K1500 and I am looking to buy a 2500 due to what I need to carry for weight now in the bed. I just was wondering what is the difference between a 1500 and 2500 rear end these years? Could I just do a rear axle swap or spring swap?

If someone could educate me to the differences that would be awesome and maybe save me buying a new truck, I love mine and hate to give it up for no reason other then cargo capacity. Thanks guys

I posted this in another forum as well and I apologize if I offend anyone with the redundancy.

-John

redvett · February 27, 2006

If you take the front sheet metal,cab & box off the frame and put a #2500 chassis under your sheet metal you will have a #2500. No amount of parts changing will get you a #2500 without the whole chassis.

Shawn T · February 27, 2006

If you take the front sheet metal,cab & box off the frame and put a #2500 chassis under your sheet metal you will have a #2500. No amount of parts changing will get you a #2500 without the whole chassis.

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AH! You beat me to it. Ditto.

Johnshan · February 27, 2006

Thanks for your comments, someone told me that on the older models the only change was the rear end- frame was the same as well as front end, im not so concerned with the front end, I suspect there are more differences in the front.

I figured if I found a 2500 rear axle and spring pack, brakes included I would be all set. Are you sure that your not speaking of the newer models? Just asking and again I thank you for your input.

-John

If you take the front sheet metal,cab & box off the frame and put a #2500 chassis under your sheet metal you will have a #2500. No amount of parts changing will get you a #2500 without the whole chassis.

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redvett · February 27, 2006

The frame is completely different (much heaver duty and all the components) it wouldnt be wort the time & money to upgrade with out the correct parts. This is true for ALL truck MFR's. You just cant use a #1500 and tow the GVW that a #2500 can and pass emission,fuel economy & durability if it could be done the MFR's would have done it.

Johnshan · February 28, 2006

Thanks for the reply. I will ask one more time just because I am curious, are you talking 2000 and newer or the mid 90's 1500/2500 trucks, from what I have read there is a big difference, or do you mean this is true for all years?

The frame is completely different (much heaver duty and all the components) it wouldnt be wort the time & money to upgrade with out the correct parts. This is true for ALL truck MFR's. You just cant use a #1500 and tow the GVW that a #2500 can and pass emission,fuel economy & durability if it could be done the MFR's would have done it.

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BRZ71 · February 28, 2006

The only way to make a 1500 a 2500 is to put the cab and box off of a 1500 onto the frame of a 2500, as was mentioned before. Any other way you can think of is like going deep sea fishing with a light duty rod, and using 100 lb line and a deep sea reel. You are going to snap the rod, no matter how much you beef up the rest of the equipment. Not to mention you could buy a used 2500 cheaper than you could "try" to make a 1500 into one. In short, it can not be done safely, sorry.

BRZ71 · February 28, 2006

I just noticed your comment about the rear frame section. From what I have heard the only one that was done that way was the 1500 HD, it is 2500 frame up to the rear then it tapers down to the 1500 frame. I could be wrong, but I think I saw that on here several times.

Johnshan · February 28, 2006

Are the frames different on a mid 90's GM? I keep asking, no one has answered that specific question yet. All the bushings are the same I know that much. I realize that after 2000 the frames are different and I have a feeling that you guys are commenting on that more than anything.

Let me explain why I want to "convert" my 1/2 to a 3/4: I haul a truck camper 3-4 times a year and would really like to have added capacity in the rear. It weighs 2000 lbs. Thats all my goal is. I dont think just adding helper springs will do the rear diff any good and thats a concern of mine.

Rolandd · February 28, 2006

Are the frames different on a mid 90's GM? I keep asking, no one has answered that specific question yet. All the bushings are the same I know that much. I realize that after 2000 the frames are different and I have a feeling that you guys are commenting on that more than anything.

Let me explain why I want to "convert" my 1/2 to a 3/4: I haul a truck camper 3-4 times a year and would really like to have added capacity in the rear. It weighs 2000 lbs. Thats all my goal is. I dont think just adding helper springs will do the rear diff any good and thats a concern of mine.

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GM made a light duty 3/4 ton truck in the mid 90's (I had a '95 fleet truck from Pacific Gas and Electric). The truck was rated 7200 GVW and listed as a K2500. It had six lug wheels and was a half ton truck except for the springs as I understand it. The frame may be heavier than the k1500 but it was not deeper. Given that the curb weight of these trucks is 5200 lbs, GM clearly intended the six-lug wheel set-up to withstand the weight.

If you take care of the axle and don't beat on the truck you will likely be okay. My biggest worry would be your breaks and whether you can still stop in a safe distance and not fry your rotors going down a hill. Also, you will need the HD radiator and other HD goodies so that everything under the hood stays together.

redvett · February 28, 2006

Thanks for the reply. I will ask one more time just because I am curious, are you talking 2000 and newer or the mid 90's 1500/2500 trucks, from what I have read there is a big difference, or do you mean this is true for all years?

The frame is completely different (much heaver duty and all the components) it wouldnt be wort the time & money to upgrade with out the correct parts. This is true for ALL truck MFR's. You just cant use a #1500 and tow the GVW that a #2500 can and pass emission,fuel economy & durability if it could be done the MFR's would have done it.

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I am talking about the GMT600 NOT the GMT800

1/2 Ton frames are completely diferent than 3/4 Ton.

Johnshan · February 28, 2006

Thanks a lot for the info, I bet thats why I thought the frames were the same for the mid 90's k1500/k2500. Any idea the rear diff in your old company truck? Im betting it wasnt a 10 bolt like my 1500 has? If it was, maybe I could get away with just adding a leaf spring or 2. Brakes have always been fine with the rig as has cooling, but def is a concern and maintence item.

GM made a light duty 3/4 ton truck in the mid 90's (I had a '95 fleet truck from Pacific Gas and Electric). The truck was rated 7200 GVW and listed as a K2500. It had six lug wheels and was a half ton truck except for the springs as I understand it. The frame may be heavier than the k1500 but it was not deeper. Given that the curb weight of these trucks is 5200 lbs, GM clearly intended the six-lug wheel set-up to withstand the weight.

If you take care of the axle and don't beat on the truck you will likely be okay. My biggest worry would be your breaks and whether you can still stop in a safe distance and not fry your rotors going down a hill. Also, you will need the HD radiator and other HD goodies so that everything under the hood stays together.

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Johnshan · February 28, 2006

Im sorry, what does GMT600 and GMT800 mean?

I am talking about the GMT600 NOT the GMT800
1/2 Ton frames are completely diferent than 3/4 Ton.

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nhproxr · February 28, 2006

I know the current models has vastly different frames but will agree with you there are not significant differences in frames between the 1500s and 2500s in the 90s. Making your truck a light duty 2500 is a viable option. Believe those light duty 2500 (7200 lb GVW) ran a semi-floating 12 bolt rear similar to heavy half tons of the late 70s/early 80s. This would allow you to run 6 lug wheels all the way around.

Throw a shift kit in your tranny or have it rebuilt heavy duty, install an external tranny cooler (if not already equiped), external engine oil cooler, heavy duty radiator, and watch your brakes (go aftermarket upgrade if you need to).

For more info go over to coloradoK5.com. Guys over there are much more accustomed to modifying their rigs.

MS3DALE · February 28, 2006

Im sorry, what does GMT600 and GMT800 mean?

I am talking about the GMT600 NOT the GMT800
1/2 Ton frames are completely diferent than 3/4 Ton.

I think redvett meant GMT400 and GMT800 (Not GMT600)

GMT400 ('88-2000 "OBS" trucks)and GMT800 ('99-'06 "NBS" trucks)are internal platform designations GM uses to identify the trucks,The new '07 trucks coming out later this year are known as the GMT900 platform.

On the rear axle on the 2500 "Light-Duty" "OBS" trucks (7200lb.GVWR),It is a 9 1/2 inch,14-bolt,6-lug semi-floating axle with 11.15x2.75 inch brakes (RPO Code JB6 or JD6)

This axle was also available on certain 1500 trucks with the "F44" Heavy-Duty-Chassis Pkg.

I had two 1500's (A '94 and a '97 Ext.Cab-ShortBed) with this package and it increased the GVWR from 6200lbs. to 6600lbs.It also included an additional leaf in the spring pack and larger U-joints.