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01 Tahoe Rear Brake Backing Plate


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What I used to call the brake backing plates, which are circular heavy gage sheet metal behind the rear brake rotors is severly rusted out ans rubs on the rotors at places. The particular pieces gone are the thinner ourer ring rather than the heavier metal behind the parking brake shoes.

 

I managed to get the calipers and rotors off, and I expect that the parking brake apparatus needs to come off, but then?

Looks like the axle hubs are going to he in the way.

 

Can anyone explain how difficult and what pitfalls there may be to get the axles out of the way and the completion of the job?

 

Also, when looking for rotors, apparently there is a difference if it's a limited slip differential. The window sticker noted "Locking Differential". Is that what the parts suppliers are reffering to?

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Limited slip and locking diff as far as the parts supplier is concerned are probably the same, basically because only one form of traction device was offered on those trucks, (RPO code G80) terminology is just a little fuzzy because it will allow wheel slippage to occur prior to activatioin, once engaged both rear wheels are "locked" so call it what you want. I choose locker because that's what it does, locks the tires, some call it limited slip, but this term doesn't fit as well in my opinion.

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Can anyone explain how difficult and what pitfalls there may be to get the axles out of the way and the completion of the job?

 

 

 

 

On my '95 you had to remove the axle shafts to get the backing plates off (I realize that my truck was drum brakes, yours is disk). If the backing plates will not come off because the wheel lug flange is in the way, you will have to remove the axle shafts. I believe that all GM rear axles use C clips to retain the axle shafts. Below are abbriviated instructions, get a manual or find someone who has done this before to help you.

 

1 - drain the rear axle and remove the diff cover

2 - spin the diff cage until you can see the C clips holding the axle shafts

3 - depending on the style of clip, these can be compressed to stay in place or be spring clips, but you will need to GENTLY tap these off the ends of the axle shafts. Cover the open diff with a cloth when you are done so dirt does not get into it.

4 - at the wheel, remove the bolts holding the backing plates and axle outer bearing retainer in place

5 - put a catch pan under the end of the axle and gently remove the axle shaft. Pull straight out and do not let the axle shaft fall into the hollow of the axle tube as much as you can help it. Cover the open end of the axle with a cloth to keep dirt out.

 

Note:

1 - If one backing plate has failed you probably should replace both as you have already done half the work of getting everything apart.

2 - Just to state the obvious, do not let any of the break components hang by the lines.

3 - do not spin the remaining axle shaft as it will misalign the clutches and end gears, making reinstalling the axle shaft harder

 

Reassembly notes:

 

1 - make sure that you do not ding the surface that the outer seal rides on

2 - ALWAYS replace the seal, even if you are going in to fix what did not work from last weekend

3 - replace the C clips and all gaskets with good gaskets--I have had to reinstall the gaskets at the wheel because the first ones were s--t, meaning I had to tear open the diff again.

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Can anyone explain how difficult and what pitfalls there may be to get the axles out of the way and the completion of the job?

 

 

 

 

On my '95 you had to remove the axle shafts to get the backing plates off (I realize that my truck was drum brakes, yours is disk). If the backing plates will not come off because the wheel lug flange is in the way, you will have to remove the axle shafts. I believe that all GM rear axles use C clips to retain the axle shafts. Below are abbriviated instructions, get a manual or find someone who has done this before to help you.

 

1 - drain the rear axle and remove the diff cover

2 - spin the diff cage until you can see the C clips holding the axle shafts

3 - depending on the style of clip, these can be compressed to stay in place or be spring clips, but you will need to GENTLY tap these off the ends of the axle shafts. Cover the open diff with a cloth when you are done so dirt does not get into it.

4 - at the wheel, remove the bolts holding the backing plates and axle outer bearing retainer in place

5 - put a catch pan under the end of the axle and gently remove the axle shaft. Pull straight out and do not let the axle shaft fall into the hollow of the axle tube as much as you can help it. Cover the open end of the axle with a cloth to keep dirt out.

 

Note:

1 - If one backing plate has failed you probably should replace both as you have already done half the work of getting everything apart.

2 - Just to state the obvious, do not let any of the break components hang by the lines.

3 - do not spin the remaining axle shaft as it will misalign the clutches and end gears, making reinstalling the axle shaft harder

 

Reassembly notes:

 

1 - make sure that you do not ding the surface that the outer seal rides on

2 - ALWAYS replace the seal, even if you are going in to fix what did not work from last weekend

3 - replace the C clips and all gaskets with good gaskets--I have had to reinstall the gaskets at the wheel because the first ones were s--t, meaning I had to tear open the diff again.

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like pretty good instructions. My 01 required pulling the axles and I replaced the seals while I was in there. Took about 45 minutes the first side and maybe 10 minutes the second side. They just rusted apart and rubbed on the rotors. Really cheap design IMO.

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