Coolant Flush

[Dave in Mpls]

Hey, guys

 

The time has come to flush the coolant system on the '02 Burb w/ 73,000 miles on the clock. Looking for any instruction, tips, do's and don'ts, etc.

 

Being the radiator does not have a cap, what is the easiest way to go about this proceedure. I guess I'm basically looking for the book "Coolant Flushing for Dummies"! After reading whatever posts I could find using the search function, some assumptions I had appear to be wrong (i.e. flush with engine running).

 

I plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, so if that should come out during the flush proceedure, no biggie.

 

Also wondering about opinions on tap water vs. distilled. Based on what I've read, it appears DexCool is compatible with tap water. If one were to use distilled, how does one eliminate the tap water used during the flushing (I'm assuming a hose is used, but see track record above!)

 

I'm going to be replacing with DexCool, so let's not go there!!

 

I should add a couple things:

 

I will not be installing a flush tee. I have one on my '94 Burb. The tee eroded at the 90 degree transition, causing a leak and a major headache, as I was in the middle of BFE.

 

Also, I do not plan on removing the block plugs.

 

Thanks!!

[Mr. Smith]

Hey, guys

 

The time has come to flush the coolant system on the '02 Burb w/ 73,000 miles on the clock.  Looking for any instruction, tips, do's and don'ts, etc.

 

Being the radiator does not have a cap, what is the easiest way to go about this proceedure.  I guess I'm basically looking for the book "Coolant Flushing for Dummies"!  After reading whatever posts I could find using the search function, some assumptions I had appear to be wrong (i.e. flush with engine running).

 

I plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, so if that should come out during the flush proceedure, no biggie.

 

Also wondering about opinions on tap water vs. distilled.  Based on what I've read, it appears DexCool is compatible with tap water.  If one were to use distilled, how does one eliminate the tap water used during the flushing (I'm assuming a hose is used, but see track record above!)

 

I'm going to be replacing with DexCool, so let's not go there!!

 

I should add a couple things:

 

I will not be installing a flush tee.  I have one on my '94 Burb.  The tee eroded at the 90 degree transition, causing a leak and a major headache, as I was in the middle of BFE.

 

Also, I do not plan on removing the block plugs.

 

Thanks!!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

If you don't plan on removing the block plugs they why bother? They are very easy to get at and you could actually flush out the block/rad a heck of alot easier/better.

[Dave in Mpls]

After doing a flush on my '94, just for fun, I decided to pull the block plugs (actually, one plug and a knock sensor) to see if any coolant was left in the block. The only thing that came out was clean water.

 

Unless the 5.3 block is substantially different than the 5.7, I don't see how pulling the plugs would really help?

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong!!!

[Bish]

I use a garden hose to flush mine. Buy some pvc fittings so you can do the following.

 

Remove the upper radiator hose. Attach a length of hose to the upper radiator connector and attach it to a hand sprayer using fittings and pvc and hose. Pull the now disconnected radiator hose over the front so it can drain into a bucket. Gently start spraying and you will see coolant coming out of the upper hose. Do not use full pressure as 60psi can cause damage. I use a clear hose so I can see the flow of water. I capture about 6 gallons for disposal and then it runs pretty clean. I disconnect the neater hoses and flush them the same way. The thermostat will open when flowing in reverse. Once done, I will re-attach everything, run the engine up to temp, shut down and repeat the flush. I usially get alittle residual the second time. Once done, replace the thermostat and pour 1/2 the cooling system capacity of Dexcool in and top off with water.

 

Regarding tap versus distilled, I have been using tap for my Tahoe since new and I've got 175K now and I've done 2 flushes. My tapwater is very good. If you have hard water, I would suggest using distilled but you should remove the block plugs if you are going that route. The Helms manual stated "potable water" which is drinking water.

[saltwater_addict]

I've also been wondering about this from the search function this is what ive gathered use dexcool use tap or distilled water thermostat will have to be replaced if someone can clarify for me about the thermostat i think i read somewhere that the whole housing? would have to be replaced also whats anyones thoughts on 180 tstats, you know since well already be down there? as much detail as you can give would be great because im about to do a whole cooling system replacement pretty soon thanks

[bossier62guy]

I've also been wondering about this    from the search function this is what ive gathered  use dexcool          use tap or distilled water      thermostat will have to be replaced        if someone can clarify for me about the thermostat  i think i read somewhere that the whole housing? would have to be replaced      also whats anyones thoughts on 180 tstats, you know since well already be down there?  as much detail as you can give would be great because im about to do a whole cooling system replacement pretty soon thanks

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I wouldn't waste your money on the 180 thermostat. I just replaced mine w/ a Hyperstat 180 and I can't see any difference on the gauge from the factory thermostat that was installed. I did also note that when i removed my factory installed thermostat that it read 86-100C. Do the conversion....it's not worth the $50+ as far as I'm concerned. And if you don't want to drain the engine block take it to your local dealer and let them do a cooling system flush.

[asilverblazer]

I've also been wondering about this    from the search function this is what ive gathered   use dexcool          use tap or distilled water       thermostat will have to be replaced        if someone can clarify for me about the thermostat  i think i read somewhere that the whole housing? would have to be replaced      also whats anyones thoughts on 180 tstats, you know since well already be down there?  as much detail as you can give would be great because im about to do a whole cooling system replacement pretty soon thanks

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I wouldn't waste your money on the 180 thermostat. I just replaced mine w/ a Hyperstat 180 and I can't see any difference on the gauge from the factory thermostat that was installed. I did also note that when i removed my factory installed thermostat that it read 86-100C. Do the conversion....it's not worth the $50+ as far as I'm concerned. And if you don't want to drain the engine block take it to your local dealer and let them do a cooling system flush.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

I think factory is 190 what good is 10 degrees going to do? A 160 would be noticeable, but then if the engine doesn't get warm enough to burn off condesation or come out of closed loop, that wouldn't do any good either.

[C & A s Dad]

I am not disputing any of the advise above but I did a normal flush on my 02 Yukon XL about 2 months ago and simply did the following. The coolant was not nasty at all but it is a nice clear red now and to the best of my knowledge, this is all you need to do.

 

1)Open the drain on the radiator and let drain

2)Refill (the coolant tank)with tap water and a bottle of good flush. I would not recommend a HD flush unless your system is really nasty. It is more caustic and can cause problems if any is left in the system.

3)Drive for 10 minutes after it reaches full op temp with heater (front and rear)on hot and high

4)Drain again.

5)Refill with clear water and drive again with heater (front and rear)on hot and high

6)This is where the instructions will tell you to refill with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. However, I refilled my system with clear water and drove it 2 more times to be 100% sure all the nasties and the flush was out of the system. This takes about an extra 45 mins but IMO it it worht it.

7)Now refill with 50/50 Dexcool and water. I used Tap, there is a lot of discussion about this and different opinions on distilled water.

8)I also used a product from Lubegaurd called Kool It. It is a type of "water wetter" but I used it because it will reduce electolysis (a modern cooling system's biggest enemy) to almost nothing and really help balance the PH in the system. It is recommended by Modine Radiator co and we sell a good deal of the product with no issues at all. You can check out their website but I can tell you that it is a quality product.

 

Yes the t'stat is made into the housing and the factory unit is a 186 degree unit. Unless you have a custome tune, I would not attempt using a different temp stat. Stick with the 186.

[GnatGoSplat]

If you don't drain the block, wouldn't there be enough clear water in there that you should add a little extra coolant to get closer to 50/50 in the whole system?

 

I take it the system is pressurized enough that driving around for a total of 30-minutes with nothing but clear water in it won't cause any problems?

[C & A s Dad]

Driving for a brief period on clear water will not hurt anything. I just would not want to do it all the time.

 

When I say 50/50 mix, I meant that if your system is 16 qts (4 gals) you will need 2 gals of a/f and 2 gallons of water. All you would do is after the last drain of the radiator, close the drain cock and add 2 gals of a/f (if your system is a 16 qt system) and then complete the fill with water. It would not take 2 full gallons of water to complete the fill due to the water left in the block.

 

In the case of my Yukon XL. The owner's manual said it holds 15.6 qts I believe. This did not fill it up. If I am not mistaken, I had to put at least 3 more qts in it to bring it up to full in the reservoir. I guess this may have something to do with the rear heater core. I am not sure????

[GnatGoSplat]

Sounds good, I am planning to do mine soon.

 

Now how do you get rid of the stuff the right way? I don't think my neighbors would appreciate a stream of orange coolant flowing down the street.

[SoCalChris]

Here's another question regarding getting rid of the antifreeze...

 

We live in a rural area, and get our water from a well on our property. From what I understand, the well is several hundred feet deep. Is it safe to let the fluid drain onto the ground? Right now, it is a pretty weak mix of A/F, because our water pump went bad, and leaked the coolant, and I just replaced it with water for the time being.

 

If I can't let it drain to the ground, will most auto part stores take it like they take used oil?

[Dave in Mpls]

Thanks, guys

 

The system looks pretty clean - this is strictly a PM change.

 

Is a flush additive necessary (or recommended) and, if so, what would you recommend?

[BOWTIE 3]

Hey, guys

 

The time has come to flush the coolant system on the '02 Burb w/ 73,000 miles on the clock.  Looking for any instruction, tips, do's and don'ts, etc.

 

Being the radiator does not have a cap, what is the easiest way to go about this proceedure.  I guess I'm basically looking for the book "Coolant Flushing for Dummies"!  After reading whatever posts I could find using the search function, some assumptions I had appear to be wrong (i.e. flush with engine running).

 

I plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, so if that should come out during the flush proceedure, no biggie.

 

Also wondering about opinions on tap water vs. distilled.  Based on what I've read, it appears DexCool is compatible with tap water.  If one were to use distilled, how does one eliminate the tap water used during the flushing (I'm assuming a hose is used, but see track record above!)

 

I'm going to be replacing with DexCool, so let's not go there!!

 

I should add a couple things:

 

I will not be installing a flush tee.  I have one on my '94 Burb.  The tee eroded at the 90 degree transition, causing a leak and a major headache, as I was in the middle of BFE.

 

Also, I do not plan on removing the block plugs.

 

Thanks!!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

I'd recommend the following: Drain radiator and recovery tank. Refill with an EQUAL amount of pre-mixed Dexcool. DONE! No air-pockets and much less trouble. Repeat every 2 years.

[Bish]

Here's another question regarding getting rid of the antifreeze...

 

We live in a rural area, and get our water from a well on our property. From what I understand, the well is several hundred feet deep. Is it safe to let the fluid drain onto the ground? Right now, it is a pretty weak mix of A/F, because our water pump went bad, and leaked the coolant, and I just replaced it with water for the time being.

 

If I can't let it drain to the ground, will most auto part stores take it like they take used oil?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I would not drain it to the ground as it is deadly to animals (and tasty) and quite toxic. We have a hazardous waste drop off that accepts just about anything and I take mine there in 1 gallon containers. The auto parts stores around me do not accept coolant.