Jump to content

Belt tensioner?

crazymjb

Recommended Posts

crazymjb Enthusiast

crazymjb

Posted
Posted

Aright, so I have had this sound on my Sierra which has been slowly getting progessivly worse in the month I have owned it. At idle there is a grinding/mushing sort of sound that happens every second or so. It doesn't sound frequent enough to be a bearing, and I remember somone mentioning the tentioner pully may need replacing in a little while.

 

Is this, in fact, what I am hearing, and do I need to replace it immediatly, or will the belt start slipping when it needs replacment?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

drumset5994 Enthusiast

drumset5994

Posted
Posted

I replaced my Idler pulley, and it went away...

 

...for about 30 seconds.

 

I guess my tensioner is going too...i have the exact same symptoms...so does my dad.

crazymjb Enthusiast

crazymjb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The tensioner assembly, which is what I think it is, has an arm and spring. When the spring wears out I believe it is pulled back with the belt and then recoils back, creating the longer duration between the noise. As long as its not a bearing and my belt isn't slipping I think I won't fix it immediatly.

 

Mike

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Keep in mind that there's a second belt (good luck finding a parts store with it in their computer though) down on the bottom that has it's own tensioner. THAT'S the one that was making that particular racket on my '02.

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted

I've replaced both tensioners in the past along with the idler pulley. They seem to start making noise around 50K in my experience. Since replacing them once, I've taken to removing them, pulling the bearing out, pulling the seals out, and throughly cleaning and re-greasing them. I do it every 50K when I replace the belts. I've got over 130K since I started re-greasing them and they are all quiet.

 

Having said all that, as others have said, there are times the tensioner is worn and should be replaced. If you observe lots of movement on the tensioner when idling, it may be time to replace.

crazymjb Enthusiast

crazymjb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I took a look under the hood to see what was making the noise and fortunatly it is not the entire tensioner assembly. The Pully on the end of the tensioner arm, however, is wobbling, and that is where the noise is coming from.

 

Does one need any special tools to remove this? I remember my auto instructor having a really long runch with a wierd end. But that may have been for something else.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
I took a look under the hood to see what was making the noise and fortunatly it is not the entire tensioner assembly. The Pully on the end of the tensioner arm, however, is wobbling, and that is where the noise is coming from.

 

Does one need any special tools to remove this? I remember my auto instructor having a really long runch with a wierd end. But that may have been for something else.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Probably the bearing in the pulley is toast. You can pull the bearing and get a replacement locally (bearing house) for pretty cheap. I don't think you can buy the pulley without the tensioner. For ease of replacement, I would replace the tensioner as it's only around $45 and comes with a new pulley. Socket on end of bolt us used to relieve tension while you remove the belt. Once the belt is removed, it is easy to remove/replace. I would also replace the idler pulley (one to left of alternator) as it is likely ready to go as well. New belt too of course.

 

Good luck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,569 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • chfkief
      FS: Black Bear Performance AutoCal Tuning System

      By chfkief · Posted

      Do you still have?
    • 3CarSeatDad
      High Country Suburban build confirmation

      By 3CarSeatDad · Posted

      Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Core-Lokt
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...