Jump to content

State vehicle inspections, do you have them?

different_seasons

By different_seasons
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

carneyman Senior Enthusiast

carneyman

Posted
Posted

Here in Texas it just depends on who you go to. Some will turn on the lights and honk the horn and give you an ok. Others do a little more.

Mark_in_Tulsa Senior Enthusiast

Mark_in_Tulsa

Posted
Posted

LOL, in Oklahoma all ya have to do is pay like 80 something bucks, if its 5 years or newer, and 60 something bucks if its older than 5 years. They don't inspect a thing. Heck they don't even check to see if it's stolen to get your tags on your vehicle.

vortec22 Enthusiast

vortec22

Posted
Posted

Here in Iowa, they don't do a thing, no inspections. Of course, if an officer thinks you are breaking a law he can check it. More reasons to pull you over I suppose

pwall Senior Enthusiast

pwall

Posted
Posted

In Ontario, a vechicle only has to be inspected when it changes owner.

So, if you keep your cars/trucks for a very long time, you'll never have to get it inspected.

However, in Ontario, vechicles have to have an emissions test done every 2 years.

General Lee 01 Senior Enthusiast

General Lee 01

Posted
Posted

It depends on who you go to here in VA.

 

 

The Standard Inspection is honk the horn check the lights. Take each wheel off and look at the brake pads, tire tread, and it usually ends with them shoving a wrag in the tailpipe to check exhaust for leaks.

 

 

It costs like $11 or something and you have to do it once a year. The inspection sticker is highly visible and it shows the month (numerically) and year.

 

I forgot about it last time around and I got ticketed the 3rd day of the following month. At 35 bucks!!!! :puke:

titanium10k Enthusiast

titanium10k

Posted
Posted

here in central florida we used to have emissions test but they stopped that a few years ago, so now nothing is tested. Believe me there are some real beaters that need it.

Dana_15 Enthusiast

Dana_15

Posted
Posted
Believe me there are some real beaters that need it.

 

 

 

 

We're pretty strick here in Mass. Every year you have to get a sticker, I believe emissions is every two years. As for Florida, the last time I was there (Tampa) I couldn't even breathe at traffic lights, everyone had straight pipes with black smoke bellowing out, maybe emission testing is a good thing?????

R Dogg 56 Senior Enthusiast

R Dogg 56

Posted
Posted

When I used to live in MN, we did. Then Jesse Ventura (:puke:) became governor, and emissions went away. As far I know, ND doesn't have any either.

Rookie Enthusiast

Rookie

Posted
Posted
maybe emission testing is a good thing?????

 

Wow Dana_15 i have a few trees you can hug. (just poking fun)

Here in northeast OH, we have nothing a few counties north have emission testing.

bobcat5544 Enthusiast

bobcat5544

Posted
Posted

Missouri, Safety inspection $12.00 if it passes. if it does not you can get it fixed, slip someone some money, give them beer, or bargain with them.

 

Emissions $24.00, some times they will hook into the OBD II port check codes if nothing they pass you. then some times they will pull your vehicle on the dyno.

But in one year they will be scraping this and going back to letting repair shops stick the sniffer up the tail pipe.

also if your veh is over 9000 lbs then you don't have to due emissions.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...