Yet another towing question

[c4cruiser]

I'm going to be towing my 87 Vette on an 18' steel trailer for next seasons racing and I'm concerned about the factory hitch on my 99 Silverado Z71 with the factory tow package. I have to do some other upgrades over the winter (new shocks, new brakes, and a bigger tranny cooler) so I have some time to do everything right the firtst time

 

The factory GM hitch is a Class III with a 5000 lb trailer/500lb tongue rating. The car and trailer weight is going to be right around 5300-5400 lbs. Towing distances will be anywhere from 30 miles to 200 miles and almost all fairly level freeway.

 

I have searched and found lots of opinions on the factory hitch (and the stories about some of them failing ). So I have been thinking about replacing it with a Class IV hitch.

 

My question is why do some Class III/IV hitches have substantially different weight ratings? I've even seen Class IV hitches with ratings between 7500 lbs and 10,000 lbs. That's a pretty big spread for the same rating!

 

Also, what is a good quality hitch by brand name? Looks like there are a half-dozen brands to choose from and they all have models that bolt in with no drilling.

[ZZ327]

i think you should be just fine, Ive pulled a LOT more on my factory hitch! Something close to 10K lbs A skidloader with the weed mower attachment

[c4cruiser]

Should add that the tongue weight will be around 550-600lbs. I have a small took box at the front of the trailer to hold a few tools.

[pm26]

You should be fine, but make sure you do not use a wooden dowel for the hitch drawbar pin!

 

Steel pins perform a lot better.

[sc4808]

Your hitch should be rated at 5000 load carrying and 10000 weight distributing. You will be fine either way but if you feel safer get a weight distributing hitch.

[C & A s Dad]

George, I replaced my OE hitch with an aftermarket hitch only because I was getting some serious deflection and twisting with my Equa l Izer Weight Dist hitch. The OE hitch was twisting upwards so much that it was not giving be good weight distribution. If you are not using a WD hitch, you should be fine.

 

If you do plan on replacing it, let me save you some research time. Go with the Class V Putnam XDR. I researched this in depth and this is the most widely accepted hitch in the RV market. It is the only Class V that I could find with a std size reciever tube. It is super heavy duty and really made the OE hitch look flimsy when I put them beside each other.

 

I bought mine from a comp in TX. I think it was called Southwest Wheel. They had the best price anywhere.

[svensk]

I got a Z85 with heavy duty trailering equipment (it says) does that mean the OEM hitch is a class 4? I hope. Is there a code in the glove box for the hitch? It just says Z83, z85, and z88(gmc) are the ones I know.

[dewfpo]

I got a Z85 with heavy duty trailering equipment (it says) does that mean the OEM hitch is a class 4? I hope. Is there a code in the glove box for the hitch? It just says Z83, z85, and z88(gmc) are the ones I know.

 

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I believe it's a Class III.

 

DEWFPO

[MS3DALE]

I got a Z85 with heavy duty trailering equipment (it says) does that mean the OEM hitch is a class 4? I hope. Is there a code in the glove box for the hitch? It just says Z83, z85, and z88(gmc) are the ones I know.

 

 

 

 

 

The OE hitch is a Class III,And you can't have Z83 and Z85 both,only one or the other,I think you meant "Z82" which is the code for the heavy-duty trailering pkg.

[svensk]

I got a Z85 with heavy duty trailering equipment (it says) does that mean the OEM hitch is a class 4? I hope. Is there a code in the glove box for the hitch? It just says Z83, z85, and z88(gmc) are the ones I know.

 

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The OE hitch is a Class III,And you can't have Z83 and Z85 both,only one or the other,I think you meant "Z82" which is the code for the heavy-duty trailering pkg.

 

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Yeah, your right z82, z85.

[c4cruiser]

You should be fine, but make sure you do not use a wooden dowel for the hitch drawbar pin! 

 

Steel pins perform a lot better.

 

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So all the work I did with a pocket knife and old tree branches from the back yard won't work??

[DJinCO]

I replaced mine with a Putnam XDR. Why risk the loss? - I saw the factory hitch fail FIRST HAND - not a second hand internet story.

 

Also ask yourself why the factory hitch attaches to the bumper (under the license plate) and the frame?

[svensk]

I replaced mine with a Putnam XDR.  Why risk the loss? - I saw the factory hitch fail FIRST HAND - not a second hand internet story.

 

Also ask yourself why the factory hitch attaches to the bumper (under the license plate) and the frame?

 

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Mine must not be factory, I bought my truck used from a guy who towed a trailer alot. It looks pretty tough looking doesn't hook with the bumper like you said.

[gmcjoe]

I have read quite a few posts on forums from people who had GM hitch receivers fail due to corrosion.

 

I know I will be looking to replace mine with a good aftermarket version next Spring.

[c4cruiser]

I replaced mine with a Putnam XDR.  Why risk the loss? - I saw the factory hitch fail FIRST HAND - not a second hand internet story.

 

Also ask yourself why the factory hitch attaches to the bumper (under the license plate) and the frame?

 

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I did read some posts that I found using the search function and they discussed weld failures. Was not a pretty sight.

 

As far as the attachment to the step bumper, all of the "bolt-on" replacement hitches from Valley, Reese, DaLan, Hidden Hitch, and others use the same bolts to attach the receiver portion to the step bumper. The information I have seen on order pages usually requires that the truck have the OEM step bumber in order for the hitch to attach properly.

 

This additional attachment point may be to help keep the receiver from bending up or down under excessive loading such as the truck bouncing over ruts or bumps in the road. That vertical movement would be transferred to the receiver and the step bumper would absorb some of that shock.