Jump to content

5.3 / 4.8 differences??

motu1983

Recommended Posts

motu1983 Enthusiast

motu1983

Posted
Posted

Hey, i'm new to the GM scene and i was wondering something. I have a 2006 Sierra 1500 with the 4.8L. I was wondering what differences there are between the 4.8 and the 5.3 aside from displacement. Things i was wondering were HP/TQ, Cams, heads, pistons, etc. I'm curious because i'm getting ready to bump up the power and if i can cheaply upgrade to 5.3L specs, i'm sure that i'd gain a lil more power. Also, would this benefit future upgrades like a supercharger and intake/exhaust? Thanks!

Jeff1 Enthusiast

Jeff1

Posted
Posted
Hey, i'm new to the GM scene and i was wondering something. I have a 2006 Sierra 1500 with the 4.8L. I was wondering what differences there are between the 4.8 and the 5.3 aside from displacement. Things i was wondering were HP/TQ, Cams, heads, pistons, etc. I'm curious because i'm getting ready to bump up the power and if i can cheaply upgrade to 5.3L specs, i'm sure that i'd gain a lil more power. Also, would this benefit future upgrades like a supercharger and intake/exhaust? Thanks!

 

 

 

Per the gmc website the difference in hp and tq are 295 vs. 285, and 335 vs. 295, respectively. As you can see the hp can be easily made up, but the torque increase will be a larger hurdle.

motu1983 Enthusiast

motu1983

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so technically, if i ordered parts for a 6.0 i could stroke out my block and have essentially a 6.0? what internals are different aside from the crank and cam then? any?

Hecktorx Enthusiast

Hecktorx

Posted
Posted
They are the smae block, the 5.3 is a 4.8 that is bored out, the 6.0 is a 5.3 that is stroked. (Possibly vice versa on the bore and stroke  :gmc:  but you get the idea.)

 

 

 

You were close, but you do have it backwards. 5.3 = stroked 4.8. 6.0 = bored 5.3.

GMSea97 Enthusiast

GMSea97

Posted
Posted

I think in summit they actually sell stroker kits...I know they do for older 350s. Any block can be bored to a certain point it all depends on the thickness of your cylinder walls. Pretty much they most limiting factor is the computer in newer vehicles, every thing you do, you will have to have it readjusted to make sure you are improving hp/tq and not just causing the computer to think it is messed up. Along with that stuff you would probably need new heads, cam, ignition, intake and exhaust. Your timing may also need to be tweaked. If you are looking to bore and stroke your engine you are looking to spend a good deal of money.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted
They are the smae block, the 5.3 is a 4.8 that is bored out, the 6.0 is a 5.3 that is stroked. (Possibly vice versa on the bore and stroke  :gmc:  but you get the idea.)

 

 

 

You were close, but you do have it backwards. 5.3 = stroked 4.8. 6.0 = bored 5.3.

 

 

 

 

 

And it is intuitively obvious that the 6.0 is a stroked and bored 4.8. :cheers:

kdm101 Enthusiast

kdm101

Posted
Posted
They are the smae block, the 5.3 is a 4.8 that is bored out, the 6.0 is a 5.3 that is stroked. (Possibly vice versa on the bore and stroke  :crackup:  but you get the idea.)

 

 

 

You were close, but you do have it backwards. 5.3 = stroked 4.8. 6.0 = bored 5.3.

 

 

 

 

 

Yup. The 5.3 and 6.0 use the same crank as on the LS1 5.7 as well. The 4.8 and 5.3 share the same heads and camshaft. The only difference is the crank and connecting rods (and some computer programming).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...