Jump to content

To Paint or Not To Paint


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just purchased a new 2002 White 2500HD.  I like the fender flares, but I think that I like the colored flares better.  A few days ago you guys were very helpful in letting me know the process of how to go about painting them.

 

With the help of Photoshop, I have two pictures one with the painted flares, and the other with the stock black color.  If it is not too much trouble, I would like to know your oppinion.

 

http://www.sunshinesporthorses.com/Truck/Black-Fenders.jpg

http://www.sunshinesporthorses.com/Truck/White-Fenders.jpg

 

 

Thanks

Posted

Not knowing for sure if you plan to add any accesories to your truck, I'm going to say to paint them white.  I've seen a couple GMC's with the white flares from the factory, and they look good.

 

But if you are going to add some black accesories like a tool box, nerf bars, grill guard, etc., the fender flares look good in black.  Like on my truck, everything else is black, so I left the flares black.

Posted

I would paint them.  Mine are painted (from the factory) and I like them.  I think painted ones look great and are easier to take care of.  You just wash them.  No Armorall or anything.

Posted

The reason that the GMC's look ok with white flares is that they have little black trim (basically around the mirrors and the rear bumper).  Chevy's have a bunch of black trim...that said, the black flares get my vote.

Posted

If u paint them I would paint the bumper top and bottom and remove the side molding give it that clean look (like 8100hd's see "new pics" post) that would look sweet only prob is u are going to have more chips/scrapes as the wheel well is a damage prone area

Posted

I like it black, matches the rest of the black trim pretty well, and if you put any more accesories on it will really help blend in if you keep with the black theme.

Posted

WTS,   Awesome truck......

Take those ugly flairs off and throw

them away....I did and don"t regret

doing so.  I think mine looks 100 %

better yours too without flairs...............Geo

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,859
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    needafix
    Newest Member
    needafix
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 590 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...