Jump to content

Caliper Guide Pin remove help


alvocado

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have never been able to remove the lower caliper guide pin on my front caliper and now the torx head is slightly rounded. With factory loctite and difficulty getting a good fit with a T55 socket, it won't budge. I'd like to pull this to grease it at my next pad change so any suggestions on how to get it off? I'm pretty certain that using the torx socket is no longer an option since it won't grip. I don't care if it's destroyed in the process since I can just replace it, assuming the original comes out.

Posted
I have never been able to remove the lower caliper guide pin on my front caliper and now the torx head is slightly rounded. With factory loctite and difficulty getting a good fit with a T55 socket, it won't budge. I'd like to pull this to grease it at my next pad change so any suggestions on how to get it off? I'm pretty certain that using the torx socket is no longer an option since it won't grip. I don't care if it's destroyed in the process since I can just replace it, assuming the original comes out.

 

Interesting that the denali's have torx heads.

 

I recently pulled my right front wheel apart to replace the hub / bearing assembly. Had the same problem - couldn't get the caliper pins and mounting bolts loose. The bolts on mine are not torx, but regular hexagon heads.

 

Spray with a good penetrant and apply some heat to the bracket (not the bolt). For the pin, you should have enough room to get a good size locking wrench around the head, (you may have to add additional leverage to the wrench, like a pipe around the handle), but with a liitle persuasion - you should get the pin to break loose.

 

You might try a new torx bit (a good quality bit adapted to 1/2" breaker bar) tap in the bit with a hammer to seat the bit and then try (again with the heat and the penetrant).

Posted

just leave it in there.

 

 

take the two 18mm bolts on the bracket off, then you can get the bracket off rotor with the caliper. now the caliper will slide right off the bracket.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...