Jump to content

Brake Controller Install


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a Teconsha Voyager brake controller that I have to intall in a 1997 GMC Sierra. I have studied all I can and I can't seem to find exactly where to connect the wires. there are four wires

BLUE - (brake power)Goes to blue on the 7pin plug

 

WHITE - (negative wire) ??

 

BLACK - (positive wire) ??

 

RED - (brake light wire) ??

 

I understand that the black and white can be connected to the fuse box that is under the hood but where?

 

according to the standard equipment of my truck there is a 7 wire trailering harness already in my truck. Where do I connect the blue wire for this harness?

 

And I am totally lost on where to red wire goes?

 

can someone help?

 

1997 GMC Sierra 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4,

290hp Vortec 7400 w/ 4.10 rear end.

:music:

Posted

Does your truck already have the 7-prong plug on the rear of the truck from the factory?

 

I'm not sure about the older style trucks with the factory towing package, but on my '01 there was a harness in the glove box, that plugs into the fuse box behind the e-brake peddle.  This harness had 5 wires in it.  The light brown wire is not used.

 

Ford trucks have a mudular plug under the dash that you would plug this supplied harness into, and then splice into it's pigtail.

 

JP has an older body style 3/4 ton...  he may be able to help you more.

Posted

Mustang_653,

 

I installed a Tekonsha Prodigy in my '02.  The truck came with a wire harness that has a plug on one end and bare wires on the other.  I connected (soldered) the bare wire ends on the harness to the wires on my controller as follows:

 

Controller black to harness red (+12 volts)

Controller red to harness light blue (stoplight)

Controller white to harness black (ground)

Controller blue to harness dark blue (trailer brakes)

Harness brown wire is not used.

 

Then the plug fits in the fuse box under the dash by the left kickpanel.  It couldn't have been easier.

 

Hutch

Posted

Here goes. The black wire should hook to battery +12 volts. If you have a Voyager controller, you should use at least 14 gauge wire with a 20 amp automatically resetting circuit breaker. If you have a Voyager XP controller, use at least 12 gauge wire with a 30 amp automatically resetting circuit breaker. The blue wire goes to the appropriate pin in your trailer connector at the back of the truck. I'm not sure if there is already a wire running from the front of the truck back to the connector or not. If not you will need to run one using the above recommendations for wire gauge for this wire also. The white wire is a ground which you can ground wherever convienient. The red wire goes to your brake light switch. You will have wires coming in to two sides of the switch. One side will always be hot (power in). The other side will only be hot when the brake pedal is depressed. This is the side you need to splice the red wire into. Use a test light to determine which side of the switch is which. I hope this helps. :D

Posted

I have the Prodigy in my 97.  Pop your hood and on the drivers side is the under hood fuse box.  You do not have to take the cover off of it.  On the back side of it (towards firewall) is two studs that you can connect wires to.

 

  I can take pictures of mine if needed,,,,, just email me direct.

 

 RedDog at [email protected]

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...