Jump to content

What did I do wrong?


SPARK CHASER

Recommended Posts

Posted

I removed the distributor on my old reliable 1993 Silverado 5.7L to replace the pickup coil. Reinstalled distributor after new coil,cap,rotor, and ignition module installed. It went back in with no problems-all marks lined right back up. Fired up the truck. It fired up beautifully. Idle air control was working fine. I let the truck warm up to temperature. I then shut the truck off to disconnect the Tan and Black wire to bypass the spark control to set timing at 0 degrees. Upon restart I checked and set the timing. Shut the truck off again to reconnect the wire. I then disconnected the battery to reset the SES. Reconnected the battery and attempted to restart and the truck will barely idle and the IAC will not step up the idle when the A/C is engaged. Truck does not run right and I know it's because the IAC is not working. Is there some special procedure I missed? I'm not getting an SES light either. This problem has me baffled. I hope I didn't fry something by accident.

Posted

You may need to double check your timing, I had a 1991 Sierra when reading up on the EST, the manual stated that the EST will correct up to 15 degrees. If you didn't mess with the IAC that shouldn't be the issue. Hope this helps.

Posted
You may need to double check your timing, I had a 1991 Sierra when reading up on the EST, the manual stated that the EST will correct up to 15 degrees. If you didn't mess with the IAC that shouldn't be the issue. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the reply. I removed the IAC valve and shoved the pintle all the way back in and then reinstalled the IAC. Truck fired right up and now everything is working correctly. I guess this IAC valve just got stuck in the fully closed position. I forgot to mention this is a Holley TBI unit. The IAC is slightly different. The "outer shell" is made of plastic, instead of metal, but the pintle design is the same as the Rochester.

Posted

Glad you solved it, I had an issue with the 1991 Sierra I used to own, nothing major it just bothered me. Things like this can be frustrating, but it feels great when you solve it. LOL.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
    • Too much voodoo and snake oil.   Time to go EV    😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...