Jump to content

Oil Confused To Death


Recommended Posts

Posted

spent hours reading pages of testing by Royal purple, Amsoil, Mobil one and all the rest. they all claim some great thing with Amsoil claiming to be the best in the world and tearing Royal Purple to shreds. What gives and buy the way, what is the gear oil to be used in my 04 burb rear end. 75x80.90.140 ????

 

thanks Guys

 

Scott ( lost in a slipping mess )

Posted
spent hours reading pages of testing by Royal purple, Amsoil, Mobil one and all the rest. they all claim some great thing with Amsoil claiming to be the best in the world and tearing Royal Purple to shreds. What gives and buy the way, what is the gear oil to be used in my 04 burb rear end. 75x80.90.140 ????

 

thanks Guys

 

Scott ( lost in a slipping mess )

 

Scott, your '04 burb and it calls for synthetic 75W90 GL5. Same regardless of 5.3L, 6.0L and 8.1L. Same as my '04 Z71 'Hoe.

 

Lynn

Posted

any quality motor oil works...when's the last time you've heard of engine failure caused by motor oil...mostly the claims are a bunch of hype. If it was so important there would be a lot more hard evidence concerning wear and failure. All you get is claims that such and such oil is better because it has more "insert magic ingredient here". Also, if there was clear cut evidence of one oil being better than the other then we wouldn't have all the controversy when it comes to oil. We'd have scientific proof with verifiable numbers of engines performing better and lasting longer instead of all this anecdotal evidence.

Posted

Hey if you are looking to use syn oil, just use Pennzoil Platinum it's just as good as Mobil 1 and costs less.

 

Have fun with your search but, I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

Posted
spent hours reading pages of testing by Royal purple, Amsoil, Mobil one and all the rest. they all claim some great thing with Amsoil claiming to be the best in the world and tearing Royal Purple to shreds. What gives and buy the way, what is the gear oil to be used in my 04 burb rear end. 75x80.90.140 ????

 

thanks Guys

 

Scott ( lost in a slipping mess )

 

 

Tearing Royal Purple to shreds? Where did you read that? Interesting, I wasn't aware that AMSOIL did a study against them. It can really be confusing on all the oils out there. It falls on the line of what you feel works for your application. Royal Purple, Redline and AMSOIL all have Group IV oils. Which group IV is the cream of the crop for automotive lubricants that is readily available. Mobil 1 just went from a group IV to a group III but didn't lower the price which has not gone over well in the "consumer oil internet world" You can see why they did it more $$$$$ for them, can you blame them? It is all about the mighty $.

 

Today's oils dino or synthetic have come a long way and will protect well with the average consumers 3k to 6K oil change. If you go longer then the synthetic line is a better choice, but there are brands of dino oil that have gone to 8k with no issues.

 

Like stated above, Pennzoil Platinum is a great group III and at a lower cost than Mobil 1.

 

Unless you want to go to extended drains or do a lot of towing/hauling and really work your vehicle most brand name oils work well. I prefer a group IV oil when it comes to a hard working engine. Better cooling abilities of the oil and able to hold up to the higher temperatures.

 

Royal Purple, Redline and AMSOIL are great synthetics. They are not equal, as in they are all created differently and each company has its own formulation. Until a major "financial" party steps forward and conducts a nonbiased 100% study on all the major oils out there and see where they rate you will always have a difference of opinion, one claiming better than the other. Not to mention those out there that will just flat out not believe either.

 

Your rear diff calls for a synthetic 75w-90.

 

On a side note, having an oil analysis done is a nice little tool to see exactly how your vehicle is running. All might seem fine on the outside but inside can tell a good bit of information as to the running condition of your vehicle. Case in point, my sisters 99 Corolla was running fine and all seemed well. I did an analysis on it and it came back less than stellar with only 10k miles on the oil. Turns out the Bosch plugs that were put into it was causing it to run rich. The oil was getting broken down from fuel causing higher than normal wear metals. Changed out the plugs to NGK, which is recommended by most Toyota owners and Bingo, her mileage went up and the next analysis showed no issues. Mostly it isn't the oil that causes the problem for it to turn a bad analysis, but it is the running condition of the engine that kills the oil and hurting the engine. Like a leaking intake system or bad air filter allowing dirt to get in, sticking injector or a bad O2 sensor. Get your vehicle fine tuned and burn a sample to make sure and you can go a long time on an oil change.

 

I know our vehicles are not air born but just a little info for those that are interested. All the fighter jets here on base get an oil analysis at the end of the flying day. The oil doesn't get changed on a regular schedule but only gets changed when the engine comes in for other maintenance that requires the oil system to be opened or if a negative analysis shows a downward trend over a certain time frame. Otherwise they run a really long time on the oil.

Posted

I'm an Amsoil user. Amsoil takes pride in providing only the finest synthetic lubricants that can be produced. They have published many test results showing Amsoil lubes taking on all the competitors, with the Amsoil product coming out on top in almost every conceivable test. The test results are published and available to the public. I think you will find these on the Amsoil web site. No competitor has ever disputed the Amsoil test results. If you are going for extended drain intervals, synthetic is the only way to go and you can guess my choice of brand. I went 70,000 miles in 5 years using Amsoil 5W-30 with only filter changes (using a bypass filtration system) and top-offs in my 1999 Silverado 5.3L, only changing the oil after my annual oil analysis showed my TBN number (Total Base Number, indicating acidity level) had dropped too low.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...