Air Still In The Engine

[luminaapv3]

'93 Chevy Suburban 5.7 liter, auto, with rear air

After recent intake manifold gasket replacement my truck is running hot. I can still hear the air bubbles in the heater coil after I shut it off.

The engine is running very hot, hits begining of the red zone once in awhile then comes back down, but hasn't totally over heated.

It's been like this for about a week.

I've been trying to bleed the air out the traditional way, but nothing seems to work, anybody have any suggestions??

[ruddy]

I had this problem with my truck. I just kept adding coolant every day until the level stopped dropping.

[atboley]

it may help if you let it heat up with the cap off and just let it boil over then shut it off, that helps get alot of the air out... then just let it cool down and add as much as you need... that works for me most of the time if im having problems

[luminaapv3]

I had this problem with my truck. I just kept adding coolant every day until the level stopped dropping.

 

 

I keep checking the level, but it's always the same, full!

[luminaapv3]

it may help if you let it heat up with the cap off and just let it boil over then shut it off, that helps get alot of the air out... then just let it cool down and add as much as you need... that works for me most of the time if im having problems

 

I tried this too, but withing minutes the fluid rises to the top and want to flow out of the top of the radiator. Pump gone? Ran fine before intake manifold gasket change, and yes the gaskets are put on correctly, I did them myself.

 

Would flushing the system with one of those flushing systems you can buy at walmart work? (the one that splices into the heater hose).

[C & A s Dad]

This is what I did on a Dodge Intrepid I had.

 

Run the front of the truck up on some ramps or at least jack the front up as high as possible. Mine had a burp/Bleeder valve on the T Stat housing, and just kept opening the valve and letting off air. If you do not have a bleeder valve you will need to open the radiator cap to let off the air. The idea of jacking it up is to get the radiator higher than the engine so the air will travel to the highest point and you can bleed it off.

 

Good luck

[luminaapv3]

Sure wish I had a bleeder valve! I'll give something like this a try.

[ChevyTech007]

Intake gaskets are probably on backwards. The blocked ports go the rear.

[Steves95Sierra]

Hey Mark -- I'm sure you've checked this.., but just throwing it in for good measure -- maybe a gunked up thermostat?

[luminaapv3]

Intake gaskets are probably on backwards. The blocked ports go the rear.

 

 

They are on correct, I did the job myself. Think my water pump went for some odd reason. Truck runs hot, then drops back down, runs hot again and drops back down, like the water pump is working and then not working, go figure, I don't know, the f**king thing is possesed

[luminaapv3]

Hey Mark -- I'm sure you've checked this.., but just throwing it in for good measure -- maybe a gunked up thermostat?

 

 

I wish, it's actually the second brand new one. thanks anyways though

[ujtruck]

Jack your front of the truck, remove radiator cap, resov cap etc, start the engine, turn On your Heater FULL warm, I repeat turn ON your Heart to Full, let it run, watch your radiator, you will see bubbles going out, add more coolant as needed.

 

this may take 20 to 40 min, but do that.

 

close all cap, run for a while add coolant if needed, you should be good to go.

[luminaapv3]

Jack your front of the truck, remove radiator cap, resov cap etc, start the engine, turn On your Heater FULL warm, I repeat turn ON your Heart to Full, let it run, watch your radiator, you will see bubbles going out, add more coolant as needed.

 

this may take 20 to 40 min, but do that.

 

close all cap, run for a while add coolant if needed, you should be good to go.

 

 

Thanks I'll give it a try