Jump to content

Spare Tire Winch


Recommended Posts

Posted

Had a little tire issue today and went to remove the spare to replace a flat. Turns out the winch would unwind some of the cable dropping the tire about 3-4 inches, then the tire would hang up and the cable would continue to feed out. I know there is some sort of anti-theft device on the winch, I think it is hung up somehow. Has anyone else seen this issue and might have some hints on what to do? I'm better now but about an hour ago I was ready to remove the winch with a torch...:)

Posted
Had a little tire issue today and went to remove the spare to replace a flat. Turns out the winch would unwind some of the cable dropping the tire about 3-4 inches, then the tire would hang up and the cable would continue to feed out. I know there is some sort of anti-theft device on the winch, I think it is hung up somehow. Has anyone else seen this issue and might have some hints on what to do? I'm better now but about an hour ago I was ready to remove the winch with a torch... :)

 

My '04 doesn't have anything except the lock on the cover.

Posted
Had a little tire issue today and went to remove the spare to replace a flat. Turns out the winch would unwind some of the cable dropping the tire about 3-4 inches, then the tire would hang up and the cable would continue to feed out. I know there is some sort of anti-theft device on the winch, I think it is hung up somehow. Has anyone else seen this issue and might have some hints on what to do? I'm better now but about an hour ago I was ready to remove the winch with a torch... :)

 

 

There is a secondary latch mechanism that may be locked and it will have to be unlocked:

 

1411096.gif

  1. Rotate the hoist shaft counterclockwise until approximately 15 cm (6 in) of cable (1) is exposed.

     

  2. While holding the latch pin (3), fully depress the latch button (2) and release the secondary latch from the hoist assembly. Some side-to-side and/or up-and-down movement may be necessary to disengage the latch mechanism.

     

  3. Continue rotating the hoist shaft counterclockwise in order to lower the hoist the rest of the way.

     

  4. If this does not release the secondary latch, the spare tire hoist will need to be replaced.

     

 

Posted
Had a little tire issue today and went to remove the spare to replace a flat. Turns out the winch would unwind some of the cable dropping the tire about 3-4 inches, then the tire would hang up and the cable would continue to feed out. I know there is some sort of anti-theft device on the winch, I think it is hung up somehow. Has anyone else seen this issue and might have some hints on what to do? I'm better now but about an hour ago I was ready to remove the winch with a torch... :)

 

 

There is a secondary latch mechanism that may be locked and it will have to be unlocked:

 

1411096.gif

  1. Rotate the hoist shaft counterclockwise until approximately 15 cm (6 in) of cable (1) is exposed.

     

  2. While holding the latch pin (3), fully depress the latch button (2) and release the secondary latch from the hoist assembly. Some side-to-side and/or up-and-down movement may be necessary to disengage the latch mechanism.

     

  3. Continue rotating the hoist shaft counterclockwise in order to lower the hoist the rest of the way.

     

  4. If this does not release the secondary latch, the spare tire hoist will need to be replaced.

     

 

 

That seems to be the issue, I will try that process once I get it back from the tire shop. Could you possibly post the procedure to replace the hoist as well?

 

Thanks!

Posted

Removal Procedure

 

 


  1. 385766.gif
     
  2. If the vehicle is equipped with a spare tire stowage lock cylinder, open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and using the ignition key, remove the lock. Notice: Use only hand tools to lower and raise the spare tire hoist assembly. Do not use air tools. The use of air tools at high speeds will damage the spare tire hoist assembly.
     
     
    385791.gif
     
  3. Rotate the hoist shaft counterclockwise in order to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to rotate the shaft until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle and removed. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower.
  4. If the secondary latch is engaged and the cable end is visible, perform the following procedure:

    3.1. Tighten the cable by rotating the hoist shaft clockwise until you hear 2 clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

     

     

    3.2. Loosen the cable by rotating the hoist shaft counterclockwise 3 or 4 turns.

     

     

    3.3. If the spare tire can be lowered, repeat steps 1 and 2 to see if the spare tire can be removed.

     

     

    3.4. If the spare tire cannot be lowered, rotate the hoist shaft counterclockwise until approximately 15 cm (6 in) of cable is exposed.

     

     

    3.5. Raise and support the vehicle.

     

     

    3.6. Place a transmission jack, or equivalent, under the spare tire.

     

     

    3.7. Position the center of the transmission jack under the secondary latch release button at the center of the spare tire. Arrange the arms of the transmission jack so they will support the tire after it has been released.

     

     

    3.8. Raise the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is firmly held in place, releasing the secondary latch.

     

     

    3.9. Lower the tire. If the spare tire is hanging by the cable, rotate the hoist shaft counterclockwise until the tire is low enough to remove.

     


  5. If the secondary latch is engaged and the cable end is NOT visible, perform the following procedure:

    4.1. Raise and support the vehicle.


     

     

    4.2. Place a transmission jack, or equivalent, under the spare tire.

     

     

    4.3. Position the center of the transmission jack under the secondary latch release button at the center of the spare tire. Arrange the arms of the transmission jack so they will support the tire after it has been released.

     

     

    4.4. Raise the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is firmly held in place, releasing the secondary latch.

     

     

    4.5. Lower the tire and remove it from the jack.

     


  6. Raise and support the vehicle if it is not already raised.
  7. Depress the tabs, remove the guide shaft from the hoist collar, and slide the shaft toward the bumper.
  8. Remove the collar from the hoist
    355994.gif
     
  9. Remove the bolt.
  10. Remove the hoist from the bracket.
    385768.gif
     
  11. Remove the spare tire hoist shaft guide from the bumper.

Installation Procedure

 

 


  1. 385768.gif
     
  2. Install the spare tire hoist shaft guide to the bumper.
    355994.gif
     
  3. Install the hoist to the crossmember. Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
     
  4. Install the bolt.Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).
     
  5. Install the collar to the hoist
  6. Install the shaft to the hoist.
    385791.gif
     
  7. Install the spare tire to the hoist. Notice: Use only hand tools to lower and raise the spare tire hoist assembly. Do not use air tools. The use of air tools at high speeds will damage the spare tire hoist assembly.
     
  8. Rotate the hoist shaft clockwise until the spare tire is in position and the hoist clicks 2 times or it skips twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.
  9. Remove the safety stands.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
    385766.gif
     
  11. Install the spare tire stowage lock cylinder.

 

 

 

Sorry it did not post with the pics before

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well, I received a message from the dealer...
    • The no sound problem is the audio amplifier. The audio amp has a heatsoak issue in some circuitry which causes it to miss the wakeup handhake. If it doesn't respond within a certain time parameter, then you get no sound. I brought it in and had the software update, but after further testing the tech made the call for a new audio amplifer. The software update I belive gives more time for the amp to respond, but if the amp is defective then you can still get no audio at times. After the update it went 12 days before no sound. After doing some research, apparently the fix is a new (updated) audio amplifer, the circuitry internally has been improved to better deal with heat. I had to wait 2 1/2 weeks because at the time, it was on backorder with no eta. Well the amp came in earlier this week. I had the amp and programming work done today. After picking it up I stopped at a few places, and whenever I started my truck, the audio was on instantly, so whatever they did it appears to work because it's never had sound that quickly......Hope this helps
    • Make sure the latch mechanism is properly greased. Look at the catch for fresh marks/scratches. And see if it has moved a little, too. 
    • I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's    I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.
    • Interesting question which you partly answered in the word 'potentially'. I think that is going to be a 'point of reference' inquiry. What are the touchstones?    This will sound petty but it is the main source of end fighting in threads on this topic. Define a motors "Life". Think about the various arguments that have been entertained on these pages in that very argument.    I can only speak from my viewpoint. Engine "Life" in my world is defined by power cylinder integrity. For the majority of engines it is the bore/ring interface that quits first. Loss of seal. Oil consumption and loss of power. Most Pro motor builders would agree and there is a good deal of information on using "Leak Down" as a primary indicator of bore integrity. At home a compression test is more the thing. If we can agree on that then I think CC Jensen has done its homework and I'd find it valid.    Now by my own definition, Dizzy, wife's Ecotec 2.4 I-4 has been dead since about 80K miles. And yet we have logged over 200K miles more on it. "Life" and "Usefulness" are therefore independent.      I know a mature fella right now who has just hit 300K on a Mitsubishi 3A92 NA MPFI motor and has done compression test every 100K. It was 205 psi after break in and is now about 195 and still even. He uses shelf oil but good filters and adheres to a 3K mile OCI. He even do UOA's on each of them for the first 50K.      I also know a fleet mechanic with that same motor that gets 300 to 500 K out of them but the are oil using, wristpin sloppy, skirt slapping motors. He ran one with a piston pin so loose the piston was bouncing off the cylinder head for about 20K miles before he called TOD. Both of them claim success.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...