-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
-
Forum Statistics
250.4k
Total Topics2.7m
Total Posts -
Member Statistics
342,858
Total Members8,960
Most Online
-
Who's Online 6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 632 Guests (See full list)
-
Latest Articles
-
Posts
-
.thumb.JPG.2c573de60d3a3a4407c7d92298db46dd.JPG)
By Grumpy Bear · Posted
Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes. On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉 You keep the Camaro's high and tight. -
By asilverblazer · Posted
Move further away. Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time. Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine? -
Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me. -
By DustMcGrath · Posted
First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads... My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling." Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded. I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it. I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading. Thanks! -
By cautious optimist · Posted
I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.
-
-
GM-Trucks.com Clubs
-
Black Truck Club
Open Club · 612 members
-
White Truck Club
Open Club · 380 members
-
Canadian Owners Club
Open Club · 282 members
-
Red Truck Club
Open Club · 157 members
-
diesel 3.0
Open Club · 281 members
-
Texas Owner's Group
Open Club · 371 members
-
NorthSky Blue Club
Open Club · 118 members
-
Midwest Owner's Group
Open Club · 213 members
-
2015 Custom Sport Club
Open Club · 5 members
-
GM Snow Plowing Club HD
Closed Club · 14 members
-
-
Popular Contributors
-
1
-
2
-
3
-
4
-
5
-
-
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.