Jump to content

Can Rain Sensing Wiper Be Defeated


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, I am bored tonight.

 

2007 Yukon Denali with the rain sensing wiper. I find it non functional when slush or relatively dry salty stuff is being thrown up on the window. Can it be disconnected or converted into the usual driver selectable variable speed intermittent wiper??????????

Posted

The exact process is detailed in your owner's manual, but if you rotate the selector away from you (towards the front of the vehicle) the last two selections are the standard slow/fast intermittent settings.

Posted
Read the owner's manual??? I'm a man. Never thought of that. Could never tell my wife!!

 

 

:tumbleweed::crackup::D

Posted
The exact process is detailed in your owner's manual, but if you rotate the selector away from you (towards the front of the vehicle) the last two selections are the standard slow/fast intermittent settings.

 

 

I guess what I was hoping for was true intermittent - a cycle every 5 -10 seconds or so

Posted

Few days ago I got involved in a heated discussion about "usefullness " of this system. I am glad that I was right. :tumbleweed:

Posted

I love the RainSense wipers. They're a very useful and slick-working feature 90% of the time. I know what you're saying about the "too dry for the wipers" thing though. Under these circumstances I just turn the dial to off. I think I'd do that rather than disable them.

Posted

I guess that thing that automatically shifts the gears as vehicle speed increases is a pretty useless feature too. Same for the speed compensated volume. Can't be having a driver that pays too much attention to the road whilst he could be trying to shift gears with his right hand, and turn up the radio, while the rain picks up and he takes the last hand on the steering wheel off it to turn on the wipers, d**n the radio is too looud now I can't hear the sirens coming up behind me maybe I can turn it down with my right foot... d**n those automatic headlights too, and door locks, seat belt reminders, and air bags, that blue button that send for help in a crash. Thats it! My new truck is too safe I'm driving my '55 I have complete control of everything so when I die in a crash I can blame no else but myself. Sorry I had a Pepsi a little bit too early this morning got a little carried away. :tumbleweed:

Posted
I guess that thing that automatically shifts the gears as vehicle speed increases is a pretty useless feature too. Same for the speed compensated volume. Can't be having a driver that pays too much attention to the road whilst he could be trying to shift gears with his right hand, and turn up the radio, while the rain picks up and he takes the last hand on the steering wheel off it to turn on the wipers, d**n the radio is too looud now I can't hear the sirens coming up behind me maybe I can turn it down with my right foot... d**n those automatic headlights too, and door locks, seat belt reminders, and air bags, that blue button that send for help in a crash. Thats it! My new truck is too safe I'm driving my '55 I have complete control of everything so when I die in a crash I can blame no else but myself. Sorry I had a Pepsi a little bit too early this morning got a little carried away. :tumbleweed:

 

:lol::D:lol: I love a hot dose of sarchastic perspective.

Posted

I'm only 30, but can still remember when driving was a SKILL. People didn't need GPS, auto headlights, rain senseing wipers, stability control, etc. People used to actually drive, when they were driving. People did not drive, talk on their cellphone, put on their make-up, and drink coffee.......they drove!!!

 

 

Look at Germany and the autobahn. Most areas still have no speed limit. Speed dosen't kill. Comparing accidents per mile, Germany has less then the US. Why? Because people in Germany DRIVE when they are DRIVING! Until about 10 years ago, it was unheard of to have cup holders in German autos.....people there drive, they don't eat or drink in the car.

:tumbleweed:

 

Ok, rant off, carry on!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...