Clunk In The Steering Wheel *fix*

[zxcvbnm]

Im a brake and front-end tech at a Chevy dealer for the last six years and I found a fix for the steering shaft clunk.

Gm has always told us to replace the steering shaft or to lube it. This did help but was only temporary and only dampened the real cause.

I just bought a 2001 Sierra so I figured I would I would join the best forum I could find and share some info.

 

This repair will fix 95% of the clunking you feel. Some shafts are bad but most of the noise is the LOWER STEERING COLUMN BEARING. Crawl under your dash and grab your steering shaft and move it up and down. If it has play, (even the smallest play will cause a clunk) you can either replace the part with the updated lower column bearing gm#88963617 or fix yours.

White bearings are the old part. Green bearing are the new designed part. Grey bearings are old too.

 

If you want to repair your old bearing remove the steering shaft 15mm nut. Then use a flat head screwdriver and put it between the bottom of the column and the bearing and twist to start the removal.

once its moved out a bit use your fingers to remove it the rest of the way. The plastic is very brittle dont use anything but your hands to remove it. If you have adjustable pedals or electronic throttle is a bit harder to remove the bearing from the truck. Next heat up the two tabs with a lighter of small torch (dont melt) and bend them out with needle nose plyers. Dip in cold water to harden the plastic and reinstall. It wouldent kill to jerk your shaft off a bit at this point as well. Reinstall and go for a drive.

 

I would recommend you replace the bearing but fixing it does work. I havent replaced a shaft in a year! I only do bearing now and it works.

[fixitmann]

Thanks for the Info and welcome aboard. Do you get many sierras in there with the rear e brake "scrub noise"I saw that there is a tsb on it I was wondering if there is a noticeable difference in the shoe retaining clip that holds it to the backplate.I really need to do this repair or ride with the radio on.Its freakin annoying.

[MS3DALE]

Thanks for the Info and welcome aboard. Do you get many sierras in there with the rear e brake "scrub noise"I saw that there is a tsb on it I was wondering if there is a noticeable difference in the shoe retaining clip that holds it to the backplate.I really need to do this repair or ride with the radio on.Its freakin annoying.

Heres the bulletin on this.....

 

Document ID# 1233289

 

 

Subject: Scraping Noise From Rear of Vehicle (Replace Parking Brake Shoe Kit and Clean Drum in Hat Rotor) #02-05-26-002A - (01/28/2003)

 

Models: 2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

 

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Pickups

 

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 1500 Series Models

 

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Series Models

 

1999-2003 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Pickups

 

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL 1500 Series Models

 

This bulletin is being revised to add Suburban and Yukon XL models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-26-002 (Section 05 - Brakes).

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a scraping noise from the rear of the vehicle while driving. The noise may be intermittent.

 

Cause

Condition may due to the parking brake shoe contacting the drum in hat rotor without the parking brake being applied, causing premature wear on the shoe lining.

 

Correction

Replace the parking brake shoe and install a new designed spring clip retainer. Follow the service procedure below to correct this condition.

 

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID #639546).

Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID #656965).

Relieve the tension on the park brake cables by loosening the nut at the equalizer.

Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.

Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.

Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

 

Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.

Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs (if applicable).

Notice: DO NOT use a hammer to remove the rotor from the hub; it may cause damage to the rotor.

 

Important: The rotor may not be easily removed from the hub due to a rust build up on the outside edge of the drum and hat portion of the rotor.

 

Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor cannot be removed from the hub by pulling on the rotor, use J 46277 rotor removal tool.

Notice: Place J 46277 between the rotor surfaces in the vent section of the rotor. DO NOT place J 46277 on the back side of the rotor surface, it may damage the rotor surface.

 

Using removal tool J 46277 on slide hammer J 6125B, remove the rotor by placing removal tool J 46277 in the vent section of the rotor at the twelve, three, six and nine o'clock positions, not necessarily in that order.

Clean the rust ridge from the drum portion of the rotor using a grinding stone and rotor resurfacing kit J 41013.

Remove the spring clip bolt (3) and retainer (2) and discard.

 

 

 

Important: Minimum thickness of the parking brake shoe lining in any given spot is 1.5 mm (0.06 in).

 

Measure the parking brake shoe thickness in multiple spots. Replace the parking brake shoe if the thickness is less than 1.5 mm (0.06 in). Continue with step 14.

If the parking brake shoe lining is greater than 1.5 mm (0.06 in), continue with step 19.

 

 

 

Rotate the parking brake shoe (1) out from the bottom and pull it out of the adjuster. Discard the shoe.

Remove the park brake shoe assembly from the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotate the shoe until it has cleared the flange.

 

 

 

Turn the adjustment screw (1) to the fully home position in the notched adjustment nut.

Install the new park brake shoe assembly (1) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875, to the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotating the shoe until it is behind the flange.

Slide the shoe into the adjuster and position the shoe to the backing plate. Install the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3 ) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875. If using parking brake service kit 88982875, SKIP STEP 19.

Replace the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3) from the parking brake retaining spring clip kit, P/N 88982879.

Tighten

Tighten the bolt (3) to 5 N·m (44 lb in).

 

Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.

 

Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.

 

Important:

 

• The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 in) of exposed thread.

 

• The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).

 

 

The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 inch) of exposed thread.

Notice: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the rotor and flange with the J 42450 hub cleaning kit. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.

 

Use the J 42450-A to clean all rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.

Use the J 41013 to clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hat section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.

Align the mark on the rotor with the mark on the hub and install the rotor by slowly turning the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle.

Install the caliper and the bracket as an assembly to the vehicle.

Perform the following procedure before installing the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

• Remove all traces of the original adhesive.

 

• Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner, P/N 12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463), and allow to dry.

 

• Apply threadlocker, GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or Red LOCTITE™ #272, to the threads of the bolt.

 

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 175 N·m (129 lb ft).

 

Repeat this procedure on the other side of the vehicle.

Tighten the nut to the intermediate cable at the equalizer.

Tighten

Tighten the nut to 3.5 N·m (31 lb in).

 

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID #656965).

Lower the vehicle.

Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has been removed.

Fully apply and release the park brake pedal three times.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

 

88982875

Parking Brake Shoe Kit

 

88982879

Parking Brake Retainer Spring Clip Kit

 

12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463)

Brake Parts Cleaner

 

12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488)

Red LOCTITE™ #272

 

 

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

 

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

 

H2956

Parking Brake Shoe Retaining Clip - Replace

0.9 hr

 

Add

To sand or grind DIH (one side)

0.2 hr

 

Add

To sand or grind DIH (both sides)

0.3 hr

 

Add

To sand brake shoes (one or both sides)

0.1 hr

 

Add

To replace right parking brake shoes

0.1 hr

 

Add

To replace left parking brake shoes

0.1 hr

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

[98 Z71 SLT]

I have to disagree with your conclusion.

 

The reason you think the lower steering column bearing fixes the clunk?? Because, in essence, you are re-distributing the grease that is already in the steering shaft. How?? You have to mess with the i-shaft to change the bearing, right?? Any time you move that i-shaft in or out, you are exercising it, and moving grease. Moving grease WILL repair the noise/clunk. For awhile.

[MS3DALE]

I have to disagree with your conclusion.

 

The reason you think the lower steering column bearing fixes the clunk?? Because, in essence, you are re-distributing the grease that is already in the steering shaft. How?? You have to mess with the i-shaft to change the bearing, right?? Any time you move that i-shaft in or out, you are exercising it, and moving grease. Moving grease WILL repair the noise/clunk. For awhile.

Yes,That was actually the fix for awhile from GM,They wanted you to excercise,or dare I say...uhh...."stroke" the shaft,This like '98 Z71 SLT said re-distributed,or moved,the grease.

[zxcvbnm]

I have to disagree with your conclusion.

 

The reason you think the lower steering column bearing fixes the clunk?? Because, in essence, you are re-distributing the grease that is already in the steering shaft. How?? You have to mess with the i-shaft to change the bearing, right?? Any time you move that i-shaft in or out, you are exercising it, and moving grease. Moving grease WILL repair the noise/clunk. For awhile.

 

 

Ive replaced hundreds of steering shafts and the problem just came right back in a few thousand miles. Ive had customers come back into my stall after replacing the lower bearing and shake my hand and saying they have brought their vehicle in several times and this finally fixed the problem.

 

Even if you dont "stroke the shaft" it fixes the problem.

Just go under your dash and pull the shaft up and down and see if you have any movement from the bearing.

 

Im just trying to help people out. A bad bearing will clunk when driving straight and under slight turning loads.

 

The new parking brake shoes do fix the saging problem. The noise your hearing is the metal shoe digging into your rotors. You probibly need new rotors and shoes.

[the hammer]

I knew there had to be something else going on down in that shaft area, cause They replaced my shaft with the new design and the daY i PICKED IT UP IT STILL CLUNKED. tHIS WOULD MAKE SENSE, AS THE GUYS TOLD ME THERE WERE SOME BEARINGS THAT THEY HAD TO REPLACE SOMETIMES. Sorry for the caps I accidentally hit the Caps Key and I don't feel like retyping.

[zxcvbnm]

The part is $21.79 shipped from gmpartsdirect.com. It applys to 1999-2006 (07classic) trucks/tahoes/subs/avalanches.....

[dlstewart01]

Ok guys, I got the clunk last year on my 05 Sierra. Being some what mechanically inclined. I regreased the I-shaft myself. Clunk gone. In the mean time I purchased the new and improved I-shaft for when this happens again. Saw this post about the new and improved lower bushing part# 88963617. I checked my lower bushing for play and sure enough I had a small amount of play in the bushing. My bushing was the white original one. I ordered the new green bushing from GMpartsdirect for 17 something plus shipping.

 

Well this week the clunk came back. I replaced the I-shaft and the lower bushing and no more clunk. Tighter than new.

 

I researched this on other forums and every body has come to same conclusion that much of the time the problem is in the lower bushing.

 

Some people have had some sucess with putting a hose clamp around the steering column right where it contacts the white bushing and tightening it as tight as it will go without breaking the clamp. They say this takes the slop out of the bushing and fixing 95% of the clunk. I just put in a new bushing.

 

There is a very long post on this at the dieselplace with pictures. Just google 88963617 and it will come up.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Don

[davidhughrose]

THANKS for posting; please let us know of solutions to other recurring probs you're seeing with GM trucks.

[the hammer]

I am going to do the self repair today and see how it works. I will report back soon.

[Oncea3fan]

I was just thinking about this "clunk " yesterday I'll defintly be checking into this.

 

thanks!

[the hammer]

So, I have the white plastic bearing piece. Took it out and did the heat and bend out procedure above. I still have the stupid clunking. so, my question is, do I need to get the green bearing, or is my shaft really just a piece of crap and there is no hope for it.

[dlstewart01]

So, I have the white plastic bearing piece. Took it out and did the heat and bend out procedure above. I still have the stupid clunking. so, my question is, do I need to get the green bearing, or is my shaft really just a piece of crap and there is no hope for it.

 

 

The white bearing in my 05 came right out not tight at all. The green bearing was a very tight fit. Took some hard pushing to get it all the way up into place. Been driving all week, still very tight. I put in the new I-shaft as well .

 

Don

[the hammer]

The part is $21.79 shipped from gmpartsdirect.com. It applys to 1999-2006 (07classic) trucks/tahoes/subs/avalanches.....

 

I went to gmpartsdirect and the part is a lttle over $30 to ship. Called the dealership, they wanted $42! So, I hope this new bearing works. Also, is there any way to know if I have the new shaft? Any numbers or markings on it that are tell-tale signs?