Jump to content

285/75/r16 Or Not


Recommended Posts

Posted

This is the only time I'm going to post this topic if I can get some honest answers.

 

Truck: 2001 2500HD 8.1/allison crew cab long box with 265/75/R16 with Firestone air bags in rear and 4:10 gears.

 

The stock tire as you know was 245/75/R16 (9.64"x 30.5" tall) The 265/75/R16's (10.3"x 31.6") were on there when I got the truck. The Front sits about 2" lower than the rear and there are no rub issues. I put a set of 8" wheels on it with new 265/75/R16's and I had rub issues that were mostly fixed with some zip ties and trimming. There was still a little rubbing turning in reverse and step driveway curbs. I don't know what the offset was and I think that was the issue.

 

I really want to go to a winter 255/85/R16 (10"x 33.1) on the stock wheel and depending on the wheel something around 32.5"-33" tall and 11.25" wide.

 

I plan on putting in the Cognito leveling kit and cranking the stock keys all the way or to level. which ever comes first. Already installed the Pittman/Idler arm support kit.

 

I'm worried about the tall wide tire fitting without rubbing. Also about power loss (8.1, I know, plenty of power). Also I rarely tow anything over 8k lbs. And I don't tow often.

 

So finally, here is my question to you guys:

 

After you got over the coolness of the appearance of having 285/75/R16's (11.25"x 31.8") do you have any regrets on this decision?

Do you feel that your truck is searching for a gear with small inclines that were not an issue before? Is the only thing stopping you from going back to a smaller tire the looks?

Does your Truck handle poorly or at least not as good as it used too?

Do you get irritating rubbing driving into gas stations and backing in and out of a parking spot?

Can you get your bigger tires to balance?

Would you do it over again?

 

With the length of my truck I would like to gain some ground clearance.

I do want the looks of the bigger tire but I saw a Duramax with 8"wheels and 265/75/R16's not leveled and it looked pretty bad ass.

 

I know it's hard (invested money and looks great and don't want to admit wrong doing) but can you give me some honest answers/opinions on how it turned out for you.

 

Last tire size post from this guy........Promise.

 

Paulie G

Posted

Love mine. I will be replacing them hopefully over the summer with another set of 285/75-16. Fit great, no trimming, only tightened the torsion bars.

Posted

Do a search on green keys, cost is cheap and you get them right from GM. They replace the stock purple keys and you can really crank torsion bars after install. I went fron 245's to 285's on a 06 2500hd for about 50.00. JOHN

Posted
Do a search on green keys, cost is cheap and you get them right from GM. They replace the stock purple keys and you can really crank torsion bars after install. I went fron 245's to 285's on a 06 2500hd for about 50.00. JOHN

 

I am running 255/85/16's on my stock rims and have not had any problems with it. I have a 2002 8.1 extended cab long bed with 4.10's and have not had any problem searching for the right gear going up hills and mountain passes. I went with the larger size tires because with the stock tires I was playing road grader with the bottom of my truck where I hunt in the fall. The first time I went out, I shaved about 1/2 off the road. I upgraded to the larger tires, because I know onces it snowed and turned muddy I would probably get stuck with the stock tires and ground clearance :banghead:

Posted

well - as far as hunting for gears, seems to me the 8.1 makes so d**n much tq at highway engine speeds that it takes quite a serious hill to cause any downshift - although that experience is based on the 4spd 4LE85 in the 2500 Suburban. But still - that motor makes a mountain of tq at 2Krpm, so changing the gearing by a few % one way or the other shouldn't make a hill of beans difference.

Posted
Do a search on green keys, cost is cheap and you get them right from GM. They replace the stock purple keys and you can really crank torsion bars after install. I went fron 245's to 285's on a 06 2500hd for about 50.00. JOHN

 

 

No need to change the keys if you can get enough lift out of the stock keys. The Cognito kit is to fix other problems related to cranking the keys.

Posted
After you got over the coolness of the appearance of having 285/75/R16's (11.25"x 31.8") do you have any regrets on this decision?

Do you feel that your truck is searching for a gear with small inclines that were not an issue before? Is the only thing stopping you from going back to a smaller tire the looks?

Does your Truck handle poorly or at least not as good as it used too?

Do you get irritating rubbing driving into gas stations and backing in and out of a parking spot?

Can you get your bigger tires to balance?

Would you do it over again?

 

With the length of my truck I would like to gain some ground clearance.

I do want the looks of the bigger tire but I saw a Duramax with 8"wheels and 265/75/R16's not leveled and it looked

No regrets

No searching for gear (and I only have a 6.0)

The only thing stopping me from going to smaller tire is: 1. traction then 2. looks

Handles fine-no noticeable difference other than harder braking until I got used to them

Some minor rubbing at full lock (on 8 in wide wheels-don't think it happens on stockers)

they don't balance as good, but not bad either-not a problem for me

I would do it over again

 

I have the same truck as you with the 6.0 instead of the 8.1-CCLB, so you and I are aware of the steering with them. Being at full lock more than other trucks, they do still rub some. I guess I could fix it if I wanted to cut some more (because I am too cheap to do anything else), but they don't even rub every time-just when the front wheel and opposite back wheel are not level-if that makes any sense.

Posted

I absolutely LOVE my 285/75/16's.... I had no problem with getting them balanced at all. I DID need to do just a small amount of cutting the front plastic, not bad though, since it is already ripped apart from the plow mount... :banghead: I actually had 295's on the truck for a little while and it would very very lightly rub when at full turn. If I were you, I'd do it..

Posted
Do a search on green keys, cost is cheap and you get them right from GM. They replace the stock purple keys and you can really crank torsion bars after install. I went fron 245's to 285's on a 06 2500hd for about 50.00. JOHN

 

I am running 255/85/16's on my stock rims and have not had any problems with it. I have a 2002 8.1 extended cab long bed with 4.10's and have not had any problem searching for the right gear going up hills and mountain passes. I went with the larger size tires because with the stock tires I was playing road grader with the bottom of my truck where I hunt in the fall. The first time I went out, I shaved about 1/2 off the road. I upgraded to the larger tires, because I know onces it snowed and turned muddy I would probably get stuck with the stock tires and ground clearance :banghead:

 

 

 

How do you like this tire size? Seems to me like this would be a good size for winter traction, still using the stock wheel. Has the extra height made a noticeable difference for you clearance wise?

Posted
After you got over the coolness of the appearance of having 285/75/R16's (11.25"x 31.8") do you have any regrets on this decision?

Do you feel that your truck is searching for a gear with small inclines that were not an issue before? Is the only thing stopping you from going back to a smaller tire the looks?

Does your Truck handle poorly or at least not as good as it used too?

Do you get irritating rubbing driving into gas stations and backing in and out of a parking spot?

Can you get your bigger tires to balance?

Would you do it over again?

 

With the length of my truck I would like to gain some ground clearance.

I do want the looks of the bigger tire but I saw a Duramax with 8"wheels and 265/75/R16's not leveled and it looked

No regrets

No searching for gear (and I only have a 6.0)

The only thing stopping me from going to smaller tire is: 1. traction then 2. looks

Handles fine-no noticeable difference other than harder braking until I got used to them

Some minor rubbing at full lock (on 8 in wide wheels-don't think it happens on stockers)

they don't balance as good, but not bad either-not a problem for me

I would do it over again

 

I have the same truck as you with the 6.0 instead of the 8.1-CCLB, so you and I are aware of the steering with them. Being at full lock more than other trucks, they do still rub some. I guess I could fix it if I wanted to cut some more (because I am too cheap to do anything else), but they don't even rub every time-just when the front wheel and opposite back wheel are not level-if that makes any sense.

 

 

Like you said, I (we) need full turn capability. Not just in a level parking lot but pulling into the parking lots or gas stations. Whatever it might be.

Posted
I absolutely LOVE my 285/75/16's.... I had no problem with getting them balanced at all. I DID need to do just a small amount of cutting the front plastic, not bad though, since it is already ripped apart from the plow mount... :cheers: I actually had 295's on the truck for a little while and it would very very lightly rub when at full turn. If I were you, I'd do it..

 

 

I really like the 255/85/16 tires, the height increase I got was enough so that I have not had the bottom of the truck hit anything since upgrading the tires. They are also great in the snow. Went on a late bow hunt this year and was driving thorugh 12+ inches of snow with drifts without any problems. They are also good in the mud as long as you can find a bottom to it :rolleyes:

 

I would never go back to the stock 245's.

 

Gary

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well, I received a message from the dealer...
    • The no sound problem is the audio amplifier. The audio amp has a heatsoak issue in some circuitry which causes it to miss the wakeup handhake. If it doesn't respond within a certain time parameter, then you get no sound. I brought it in and had the software update, but after further testing the tech made the call for a new audio amplifer. The software update I belive gives more time for the amp to respond, but if the amp is defective then you can still get no audio at times. After the update it went 12 days before no sound. After doing some research, apparently the fix is a new (updated) audio amplifer, the circuitry internally has been improved to better deal with heat. I had to wait 2 1/2 weeks because at the time, it was on backorder with no eta. Well the amp came in earlier this week. I had the amp and programming work done today. After picking it up I stopped at a few places, and whenever I started my truck, the audio was on instantly, so whatever they did it appears to work because it's never had sound that quickly......Hope this helps
    • Make sure the latch mechanism is properly greased. Look at the catch for fresh marks/scratches. And see if it has moved a little, too. 
    • I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's    I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.
    • Interesting question which you partly answered in the word 'potentially'. I think that is going to be a 'point of reference' inquiry. What are the touchstones?    This will sound petty but it is the main source of end fighting in threads on this topic. Define a motors "Life". Think about the various arguments that have been entertained on these pages in that very argument.    I can only speak from my viewpoint. Engine "Life" in my world is defined by power cylinder integrity. For the majority of engines it is the bore/ring interface that quits first. Loss of seal. Oil consumption and loss of power. Most Pro motor builders would agree and there is a good deal of information on using "Leak Down" as a primary indicator of bore integrity. At home a compression test is more the thing. If we can agree on that then I think CC Jensen has done its homework and I'd find it valid.    Now by my own definition, Dizzy, wife's Ecotec 2.4 I-4 has been dead since about 80K miles. And yet we have logged over 200K miles more on it. "Life" and "Usefulness" are therefore independent.      I know a mature fella right now who has just hit 300K on a Mitsubishi 3A92 NA MPFI motor and has done compression test every 100K. It was 205 psi after break in and is now about 195 and still even. He uses shelf oil but good filters and adheres to a 3K mile OCI. He even do UOA's on each of them for the first 50K.      I also know a fleet mechanic with that same motor that gets 300 to 500 K out of them but the are oil using, wristpin sloppy, skirt slapping motors. He ran one with a piston pin so loose the piston was bouncing off the cylinder head for about 20K miles before he called TOD. Both of them claim success.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...